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12V inside cab on 2011 'Taco

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by ToyTrainGuy, Jun 19, 2015.

  1. Jun 19, 2015 at 8:01 AM
    #1
    ToyTrainGuy

    ToyTrainGuy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I followed the instructions that someone posted years ago about how to get your 'Taco's 12V receptacles "hot" all the time. This thread involves removing the relay from behind the fuse box under the dash & inserting an insulator (I used a piece of rubber) in the contacts of the correct relay. I was careful & the job went smoothly, or so I thought.

    Now, the two receptacles do not work at all, much less with the key "off". The original mod was done on a '05 Taco.

    Did something change on the 2011 model, preventing this mod from working? If so, is there a different fix? Help!
     
  2. Jun 19, 2015 at 8:07 AM
    #2
    ranger098

    ranger098 Well-Known Member

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    You probably blew a fuse?
     
  3. Jun 19, 2015 at 8:10 AM
    #3
    ToyTrainGuy

    ToyTrainGuy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I haven't checked that, but I was extremely careful, I even removed the negative terminal of the battery while working on it.
     
  4. Jun 19, 2015 at 8:25 AM
    #4
    ToyTrainGuy

    ToyTrainGuy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I checked the fuse for the power outlet it is fine.

    Surely someone has a 2011 or newer Taco & has found a post on what the mod is. Again something must have changed on the '11 & up models to prevent the original mod from working. Anyone?
     
  5. Jun 19, 2015 at 11:01 AM
    #5
    ranger098

    ranger098 Well-Known Member

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    If you put it back to normal does it work then? hopefully thats easy to check...
     
  6. Jun 19, 2015 at 11:12 AM
    #6
    ToyTrainGuy

    ToyTrainGuy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the reply. Yes, putting it back to original, I assume will get them working again, but you know tearing out all those panels & connections to get to the relay is not fun. I was hoping to get some other info on what to do soon before tearing into it again, so maybe I won't have to do it for a 3rd time. Still, don't understand why it did not work, unless something has changed from the original '05 truck the mod started on to my '11 truck.
     
  7. Jun 19, 2015 at 11:14 AM
    #7
    ToyTrainGuy

    ToyTrainGuy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Here is the original thread...
     
  8. Jun 19, 2015 at 11:37 AM
    #8
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    i dont know why people would go through all the effort to do that to the relay... 2 blade connectors crimped to a 2inch long piece of wire inserted into the socket to connect the two pins together and your good.
     
  9. Jun 19, 2015 at 12:16 PM
    #9
    ToyTrainGuy

    ToyTrainGuy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I read through all the mods you did, but still not clear about what you are saying to do to get the power outlet hot. I think you are saying to remove that same relay COMPLETELY & then just put a jumper wire where the two copper / brass color (there are other terminals on the relay itself) prongs had been into the rear of the fusebox?
     
  10. Jun 19, 2015 at 1:06 PM
    #10
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    yup. make sure your 15amp power outlet fuse is good and your fine.

    Remove the relay... Its simply an electric switch that connects the two main leads together. Connect pins 3 and 5 of the relay socket via a wire with 2 male blade connectors on either end.

    12v.jpg
     
  11. Jun 19, 2015 at 1:19 PM
    #11
    ToyTrainGuy

    ToyTrainGuy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thank You! I'll let you know how I made out tomorrow, it's about 98 degrees outside right now.... Thanks again!
     
  12. Jun 20, 2015 at 8:53 AM
    #12
    ToyTrainGuy

    ToyTrainGuy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well thanks to "nd4spdbh", on the second attempt, the two power outlets are now "hot" all the time. I must admit it was a bit easier the second time gaining access to the relay, as I had just been in there yesterday.

    I still don't understand why the original thread about modifying the relay did not work on my '11 truck, but this way is the way that actually works. As he said pull the relay out completely & put a jumper wire in it's place, you are done!

    Thanks,
    nd4spdbh....
     
  13. Jun 20, 2015 at 9:52 AM
    #13
    steelhd

    steelhd Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for posting this. I would have done the same thing as you did with my '11.
     
  14. Jun 20, 2015 at 11:11 AM
    #14
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    Not a problem. What likely happened is you put the piece of rubber on the wrong side of the contact of the relay so the circuit could never close. As you have seen a simple jumper is easier and more effective!
     
  15. Jun 20, 2015 at 12:39 PM
    #15
    MeefZah

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    Man the first gens were so much easier.

    I've been wanting to do this but... so... much... work....to access that stupid thing. No way to just crawl up under the dash and work it out with a baby hand, eh?
     
  16. Jun 20, 2015 at 12:54 PM
    #16
    ToyTrainGuy

    ToyTrainGuy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    steelhd, while it was disappointing that the original method of altering the relay for whatever reason (thanks for the comment, nd4spdbh) did not work for me & the 'Jumper method" was so easy, still the original link above by "cheg" (Tundrasolutions) was a very thorough description on how to actually get to the relay, which I would have never figured out myself.

    I had inquired about this problem a year ago, but never followed up on the solution until now. I was on a cross country vacation out west in BFE somewhere. My 110v charger for my phone croaked & I figured no problem, I'll just use my 12v charger. I could not believe that I had to leave my truck in the hotel parking lot, with the ignition on & the truck unlocked for hours while the phones charged. Stupid stuff, never again....
     
  17. Jun 20, 2015 at 12:58 PM
    #17
    ToyTrainGuy

    ToyTrainGuy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    MeefZah, no a baby hand will not get you there.

    It is really not that bad. I took my laptop (or phone) out to the truck & followed the dis-assembly procedure closely. It really only took about 20 minutes to get to the relay & pull it out. You can do it...
     

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