Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Nice, I've seen it done similar ways but just wanted to make sure before I burn it in.

The square tube was scrap I had laying in the floor so I was trying to make use of it otherwise going all the way to the top would be better. And I haven't gotten around to making all my frame plates yet but it's on the list. You can see that I've already prepped for the plates back there. Have the metal and just picked up new tips for the plasma

Oh yeah I agree if I were building them from scratch that would be the way to go.

 

I would move it up on the back of the crossmember rather than doing it that way. Something similar to this

 

I thought about doing it that way but it would kill my shackle angle and ride height

 

Doesn't look like it'd be much more than it already is. What's the angle at full droop?

 

With just the weight of the springs it's not quite 90*. I'm more worried about the drop in ride height though. Right now it's dead even with the front which is what I wanted. I want to wheel it after all the changes at the same ride height and then decide if I want to lower it some or not.

 

Keep it how it is... You'll be fine. Mine is only welded on the bottom around the "hanger" and it hasn't moved in 4 years.

 

Butchered a brake line on the taco, so I am DD the runner til I get time to fix it


I need to charge the AC

 

That's CLEAN

 

Some of those bouncers have some cool tube work done to them, but damn the visibility looks like it blows. I guess it really doesn't matter since its stand on the gas until you roll, run over over whats in front of you, break, or make it up the hill type wheeling.

 

If I do another build that will be it. Tube frame, 5.9common rail, 10 ton portals (both steering) , 54" cut boggers,.

 

Do eeet

 

Is plating the top and bottom of where welded the frame back together really necessary? I plated the inside and outside and I really don't think I have anything to worry about.

 

Nah, you're good

 

I was wheeling with a built suburban this last weekend with heavily trussed axles (didn't ask what they were or look at what suspension setup he had), he was running a supercharged 454 under the hood! Didn't get to see him use it except as a tow rig once though.

 

Any of you guys that have 1st gens have 40's? If so can you post up a link or pics on how much tubing you had to do to the front fender wells to get them to fit? One of my friends that runs them on his 80 series is polluting my brain and telling me to look into them lol. This will be a forward shackle leaf sprung SAS, so i guess the tires going to be going forward into the front of the fender when stuffed.

 

Depends, are you frenching the shackles to get a bit more uptravel? I took out 2.5" my first time and it was too much for 37s with 5" up at 26" frame. I'd say 3" in that setup might fit. But all depends if you French

 

I'm chopping the front of the frame off and making a new one to keep it low and get the steering to fit. I don't know if that answers your question. Planning on 3 or 4" of uptravel since the oil pan may become my next contact point for the pumpkin and steering. It will all depend on when i get the axle slung under and i see what hits or not. The 9.5" diff is a big bastard.

 

Look at how much Brian cut (thegame) and you can assume probably about 1" less out of the fenders as a link suspension cycles better.

 

Yea i was looking at his build. The other option, just bring my BFH, Sawzall and grinder to the badlands for the shakedown run and hack it up in the parking based on the dents and marks from flexing it out lol!!