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2005 Tacoma TRD - Brake rotors worp every 4k miles

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by TacomaFan05, Jul 8, 2015.

  1. Jul 8, 2015 at 7:33 PM
    #1
    TacomaFan05

    TacomaFan05 [OP] New Member

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    I have owned a 2002 and 2006 Tacoma before I purchased my current 2005. Purchased with 75k miles with worn brakes. Replaced with stock Toyota parts, 4-6k miles later I started feeling the shimmying of the front brakes...replaced the tires and had rotors turned. Same thing happened 4-6k miles later. Next I purchased pricey slotted rotors and pads, same issue after the 4-6k miles...had the rear brakes checked...was told they are in great shape, not needed replacing. Not sure where to go from here...
    As of now, break pedal and steering wheel shake like crazy, no pulling to one side or other.
    Please help!
     
  2. Jul 8, 2015 at 7:36 PM
    #2
    Evenflow

    Evenflow Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like you have a bad front wheel bearing it will cause serious brake shimmy. Jack the truck up so the tires are off the ground and grab the tire at 12&6 and try to wiggle it. If there is any free play your wheel bearing is toast. There are a couple of guys here on TW that sell complete new hubs off a great price and it easy to swap it out yourself.
     
  3. Jul 8, 2015 at 7:40 PM
    #3
    Lester Lugnut

    Lester Lugnut Well-Known Member

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    I've had rotors turned many times and it always worked. Some here will say that you should replace rotors and not turn them. Not sure I agree with that, but I would have to wonder if the rotor had enough surface left to turn and if the guy who shaved them knew what he was doing.

    Just my 2 cents.
     
  4. Jul 8, 2015 at 11:56 PM
    #4
    TSJESME

    TSJESME Well-Known Member

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    Calipers may need replacing. In Hawaii, corrosion is an issue for the caliper. Maybe not centering.
     
  5. Jul 9, 2015 at 3:30 AM
    #5
    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

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    Are both sides warping at a similar rate??
    Just some thoughts: It's unusual to have both sides - calipers or wheel bearings - go bad at the same time to cause the exact same problem on both sides. Not out of the question, just unusual.

    How do you brake? Do you drive fast and brake hard?? Could simply be the manner at which you're braking. ( had to mention it).

    Nothing wrong with turning rotors. I do it every time I change my pads on all my vehicles. The machinist should inform you when the rotors are too thin to turn. They should know.....
     
  6. Jul 9, 2015 at 3:46 AM
    #6
    balljoint

    balljoint Well-Known Member

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    Wheel bearings are a known early wear problem on these trucks. So is the seizing of the inboard lower piston in the calipers.
     
  7. Jul 9, 2015 at 4:40 AM
    #7
    hetkind

    hetkind Well-Known Member

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    bilstein set at 1.75, Racho 5000 rear with 4 leaf kit, floor mats, high lift jack, pull hook in hitch, bed rail corner braces, severe duty brake pads and devil horns on the grill....
    I would start looking: brake line for integrity, sticking calipers, bad wheel bearings...

    I had a VW Karmen Ghia that had a swollen brake line, it would pass fluid under pressure then hold that fluid. I failed two rotors before replacing a $10 line.
     
  8. Jul 9, 2015 at 1:07 PM
    #8
    TacomaFan05

    TacomaFan05 [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for all the replies...will check wheel bearings this weekend...any chance it could be a control arm or ball joint?
     
  9. Jul 9, 2015 at 1:16 PM
    #9
    Evenflow

    Evenflow Well-Known Member

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    Jack the truck up to test the wheel bearings by wiggling the wheel at 6&12 = wheel bearing, any lose play while wiggling the wheel at 3&9 = tie rod end or possibly the steering rack or steering rack bushings. The steering rack bushings are a notorious fail item on these trucks as well. You can just look up under the front end end at the two bolts that hold the steering rack and see / feel if the bushings are cracked or degraded. If so Energy Suspension makes urethane replacements.

    Ball joints and control arm bushings can be tested with a pry bar by putting pressure on them, jack the truck up and start prying on the joints to flex them and if you see free play there is your prob. With a 2005 you could honestly have all of the above going on...
     
  10. Jul 9, 2015 at 1:32 PM
    #10
    fixer5000

    fixer5000 the logical one

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    9 posts in and not one asks did you use a torque wrench to tighten the lugs??? so ill ask did you?? every time?? if youve got aluminum wheels you have to or risk rotor warping . aint nobody i ever knew in 50 yrs of wrenching could tell when his hand hit the torque spec of any wheel evenly...ok im done next......
     
  11. Jul 9, 2015 at 4:10 PM
    #11
    TacomaFan05

    TacomaFan05 [OP] New Member

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    Again Thanks for the replies...I purchased the tire from Costco so I know they are at proper torqued specs.
     
  12. Jul 9, 2015 at 4:14 PM
    #12
    pudge151

    pudge151 Well-Known Member

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    I would check them. You really think a guy working at costo changing tires is 100% reliable?
    Also maybe your wheels are out of balance?
     
  13. Jul 9, 2015 at 4:55 PM
    #13
    R.T.

    R.T. Active Member

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    My last Toyota before my current 2015 was a 2003 Tacoma Pre-runner. One of the reasons I went 12 years without owning one is because my 2003 did the same as yours but not as frequently. I had rotors warp at 10000 miles like clockwork. After the 30000 mile replacement, I got rid of it and haven't returned until this year. I never had a vehicle warp rotors before or after that 2003 Tacoma.
     

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