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How To Remove CV Axle+Replace Front Wheel Bearing 2nd Gen

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by KenpachiZaraki, Nov 22, 2011.

  1. May 24, 2015 at 6:46 PM
    #261
    4WDTrout

    4WDTrout Perpetually dreaming of tall trees & rivers

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    In this video the tech says you need a 36mm socket to take the hub off. I thought it was a 35mm socket....:notsure:
     
  2. May 24, 2015 at 6:47 PM
    #262
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 Ex-Snarky TWSS elf, Travis #hotsavannahdotcom

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    It is 35 on Tacomas
     
  3. May 24, 2015 at 6:49 PM
    #263
    4WDTrout

    4WDTrout Perpetually dreaming of tall trees & rivers

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    Thank you for clarifying
     
  4. May 26, 2015 at 11:27 AM
    #264
    Chickenmunga

    Chickenmunga Nuggety

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    @KenpachiZaraki , thanks for the writeup. I'd like to add a few things that really helped me speed things up for hub removal/replacement:

    You will want to have the following tools that you might not have BEFORE beginning. This is not a complete list of what you will need, but just some uncommon things that lead to success.
    1. Impact wrench ( works fantastically for me, it's just bulky)
    2. 35mm impact socket for hub nut (this is a very rare tool, so either find a specialty tool shop or order online)
    3. Torque wrench that can go up to whatever the torque is for the hub nut, I think it's 180? I REALLY need to get one since my Craftsman maxes at 150 so I'm a bit under-torque :anonymous:
    4. 14mm crowfoot wrench and an socket extension. You will use this to remove/torque the hub bolts
    5. Breaker bar (another Harbor Freight purchase since it's a pretty basic tool)
    6. prybar with a fairly sharp point (I used something identical to this. Use this to pry off the hub with a few moderate hammer blows.
     
    KenpachiZaraki[OP] likes this.
  5. Jul 10, 2015 at 4:29 PM
    #265
    bayrak

    bayrak Well-Known Member

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    Hey TW,

    Literally in the middle of this and looking for some advice - laptop sitting outside with me (read the OP many times and have watched alot of youtube but am still kinda confused before I progress.

    I just pulled the Hub out and it was gnarly in there- Literally ground to a powder (that black stuff)





    I am wondering If looking back in the spindle, all I have to do ON THE SIDE PF THE SPINDLE THE HUB PRESSES IN ON, as far as everything looks, reinstall the hub after a cleaning (wire brush), then it can be "pressed back in" by linding it up, and lightly tapping with rubber mallet back into spindle while also using the mounting bolts? New hub is pictured below.



    Now, ON THE SIDE OF THE SPINDLE CV GOES INTO, I bought the new "inner seal" along with my new hub., so I pull out inner seal and put new one in? I see little what looks to be little bearings and this confuses me...





    This is the end of the CV that connects to the spindle, I understand I take and re-use the seal off here? (although I need new cotter pins for the 35mm so I will likely go get a new one






    Then when i Put the new CV in I will likely also get the new seal on this side:




    Any help is greatly appreciated
     
  6. Jul 10, 2015 at 4:42 PM
    #266
    romafern

    romafern Hug diz nuts

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    Matt,

    damn brother!! That is some nasty stuff. Now you have me wondering if I should look at mine for the heck of it... Doing this does not mess with the alignment right?
     
  7. Jul 10, 2015 at 4:51 PM
    #267
    bayrak

    bayrak Well-Known Member

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    Yeah not too stoked, I heard a noise and should have stopped but instead drove some friends to catch the ferry and when I came back it was too late...

    Heres the inner seal that came with the hub for referance! Again any help is appreciated!

     
  8. Jul 10, 2015 at 5:17 PM
    #268
    BlackBuzzard

    BlackBuzzard Well-Known Member

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    Not sure what exactly your questions are, but since I just did both bearings on my truck I will try to answer.

    The hub/bearing assembly slips onto the splined shaft easily by hand.....unlike dis assembly which takes prying effort to get the hub face out of the knuckle.


    Dont forget the brake splash shield goes between the hub and knuckle.
     
  9. Jul 10, 2015 at 5:19 PM
    #269
    Chickenmunga

    Chickenmunga Nuggety

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    First, remove your ABS sensor (it is the small black connector that you still have connected to the hub, 10mm socket). It is very sensitive. Damaging this will make you very mad. Also disconnect the cable.
    I would remove the inner seal at the same time, then clean.
    Next, install the new hub by lining it up and using the hub mounting bolts to press/suck it in. Tighten in a star pattern and torque to the recommended setting. Note that I used red Loc-Tite as well to prevent the bolts from loosening.

    Don't worry about the bearing things. It looked more like a spring to me last time I analyzed one.
    Press this in carefully and evenly, don't bend it all up. Make sure it fully seats.

    Most CVs I've had come with a new one, but yours did not. Re-use the seal unless it is damaged (inspect rubber). If the metal is banged up, straighten it out. It acts as a dust seal. It isn't airtight or anything like that, so don't sweat being perfect.

    Yes. Also inspect the seal that is inside the differential and replace if necessary. Take a picture first... I'll say why here in a few seconds.
    Replacement here is a bit tougher; you need to be gentle with it. Ensure that you have it seated both evenly AND to the correct depth. Outer edge should be even with the edge of the differential, if I remember right, so check out your picture to make sure. If it is too deep or not deep enough, the diff will drip. It's easier than it sounds if you are slow and careful.

    Add diff fluid as necessary once all is complete.

    After you are all done, regularly inspect the diff fluid level and the connection between the axle and the diff for any dripping. Slow drips will be OK, they eventually stop. If it doesn't stop or gets excessive, this could either be an improperly seated seal or a cheap axle.
    If the seals are good, keep your fluid topped and consider buying a new or remanufactured OEM Toyota axle before you spend too much on fluid :D. It is a common issue for off-brand axles to not mate "just so" and cause leakage. Save the leaky axle as a spare.
    As an example, I had an AutoZone axle that didn't mate just right, and it almost pumped my front diff dry over the course of a week. Thankfully I wasn't using 4x4 at the time at all.
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2015
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  10. Jul 10, 2015 at 5:20 PM
    #270
    Chickenmunga

    Chickenmunga Nuggety

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    THIS SO MUCH!!

    I had to take things apart 3 times because
    1. I forgot to put it on
    2. I put it on backwards
    3. I put it on upside down

    :facepalm:
     
    Crom and KenpachiZaraki[OP] like this.
  11. Jul 10, 2015 at 5:24 PM
    #271
    KenpachiZaraki

    KenpachiZaraki [OP] Its Wicked Flow BITCHES!!

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    High five to everyone becoming experts on changing cv axles and hub bearings!!
     
  12. Jul 10, 2015 at 5:26 PM
    #272
    BlackBuzzard

    BlackBuzzard Well-Known Member

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    4. Spin your wheel while still on jack stand when finished to see if disc brake rubs splash shield. I may have been bent during dissassembly....it will make a hideous sound. Then reach in there and by hand bend the spot where it rubs your disc brake.
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2015
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  13. Jul 10, 2015 at 8:46 PM
    #273
    bayrak

    bayrak Well-Known Member

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    THANK YOU!!! I really appreciate it Was a huge help! I looked at the seals for the CV and both look pretty worn (the outer side was pretty chewed up) so will be looking at getting new ones tomorrow - Thanks again!!
     
  14. Jul 14, 2015 at 6:49 PM
    #274
    bayrak

    bayrak Well-Known Member

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    Does anyone know the part numbers of the dust Caps / seals OP didnt replace? they are the ones that need to be pressed back onto the CV.

    Below they are pictured. Left is the side that connects to the Hub / spindle side. Right is the cap on the that slides into the front diff. Looking for OEM part numbers or equivlent from nappa - dealership is useless in finding numbers and am having trouble looking at the diagrams.




    Thanks again TW!!
     
  15. Jul 14, 2015 at 9:24 PM
    #275
    Chickenmunga

    Chickenmunga Nuggety

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    I've had excellent luck with Camelback Toyota (check them out in the Vendors) for other parts, maybe they can help you.
    I haven't had to buy those parts, but here's the list of the other parts in that vicinity (driver side)
    90311-47012 SEAL, TYPE T OIL $10.29
    90301-A0005 RING, O $5.03
    90316-A0001 SEAL, TYPE D OIL $33.50

    Prices may vary.

    Below is an image from another member, see the parts in red for the dust cover and dust seal,
    [​IMG]
     
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  16. Jul 15, 2015 at 8:18 AM
    #276
    White Bear

    White Bear Well-Known Member

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    Probably have the only 2nd Gen with an 8274 in the world.
    I used an 1 3/8" end wrench and a 3lb shop hammer (redneck impact gun), just be mindful of the possibility of boogering threads on your lug bolts. Just FYI as I didn't have a metric socket that big.
     
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  17. Jul 15, 2015 at 8:25 AM
    #277
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 Ex-Snarky TWSS elf, Travis #hotsavannahdotcom

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    Hopefully a closed end wrench. Open end wrenches bend and slip easily.
    Lol
    [​IMG]
     
  18. Jul 15, 2015 at 8:31 AM
    #278
    Chickenmunga

    Chickenmunga Nuggety

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    Yup, they are directly compatible (within a thousandth of an inch).
    Your big concern is putting it back on to the correct torque (173 ft-lbs)
    If you are going to be doing this and anything more around the vehicle, a torque wrench becomes an indispensable tool - I just got one of these Precision Instruments wrenches and I am really enjoying it. My old Craftsman can get up into those higher numbers.
     
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  19. Jul 15, 2015 at 9:21 AM
    #279
    White Bear

    White Bear Well-Known Member

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    Probably have the only 2nd Gen with an 8274 in the world.
    Yeah I used the boxed end lol. and tightened the shit out of it.
     
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  20. Jul 15, 2015 at 9:37 AM
    #280
    BlueT

    BlueT Well-Known Member

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    Use torque wrench to tighten your wheel bearing or they will fail again shortly.
    Cheap Torque wrench can be bought from Harbor Freight.. I dont see one goign to 250 LB but I bought one from them so maybe they have one in store.

    PS: and after 500 miles re tighten CV nuts again to proper torque.
     

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