Used wrong weight oil

Nah. As long as the oil meets API service requirements and specifications it doesnt matter.

 

Only thing with 5w-40 is your additive package might be not so good for you seals. Diesel motor oil is built to act as a sink for particulates so it has more surfactant load. All that surfactant can't be good for the seals long term.

I never said for him to swap his oil, but I'd run manufacturers specifications at least until the warranty is up.

 

been fine for the last 60k+ miles, the additives are so low that it wont impact anything
No leaks and runs just as strong as when new.

 

This got me to thinking, seems like I remember seeing a sticker on my truck when I bought it that said something to the effect of "filled at factory with energy saving

$52 0w 20 oil Toyota/ exxon mobil Case of 6 Quarts Full Synthetic TGMO SN 0W-20 Oil

0w 20 oil". Anybody else remember this or is my memory playing tricks on me?

 

40k on the odometer...no worries about the warranty.

 

The 2.7 4cyl uses the 0w-20 synthetic.

 

My owners manual for the 2.7L only says 0w-20 or 5w-20. It doesn't say dino or synthetic, only "Toyota Genuine motor oil or equivalent". Do different years call for different specs?

 

Different engines do, the 2.7 in the first gen is a totally different beast so its a different oil.

 

Toyota Tacoma 2013 Owner's Manual page 456. 4.0 L V6 (1GR-FE) engine

"SAE 5W-30 is the best choice for good fuel economy and good starting in cold weather. If SAE 5W-30 is not available, SAE 10W-30 oil may be used. However, it should be replaced with SAE 5W-30 at the next oil change."

"The 5W in 5W-30 indicates the characteristic of the which allows cold start ability. Oils with a lower value before the W allow for easier starting of the engine in cold weather."

"The 30 in 5W-30 indicates the viscosity characteristic of the oil when the oil is at high temperature. An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions."

Nothing about using 20 viscosity oil or lower.

 

Not sure what you are getting at here

 

The 2013 Owner's Manual states what oil to use in this engine. 5w-20 is not listed, only 5W-30 and 10W-30.

 

Pull up a chair young padawan. The second number is the weight. Grading oil by their ambient temps is the SAE industry standard. Not only is there a chart in your owner's manual, they are all over the internet. The first number with the letter "w" behind it comes from a modifier package added to the oil to get it to flow like a thinner weight oil. That "w" stands for Winter. It is it modified cold pour rate. Not the actual viscosity of the oil.

https://www.google.com/search?q=sae+oil+viscosity+chart+vs+temperature&biw=1440&bih=734&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CCwQ7AlqFQoTCM3F1LLE6sYCFYhZiAoddGIPCA#tbm=isch&q=sae+oil+viscosity+table&imgrc=NPG-XyOBpC8MAM:

http://www.*************/images/saerates.jpg

This is true, but still missing a point of importance. Synthetics do handle heat better than non-synthetics. The point is that the viscosity or weight is what determines how resistant to increasing in tempurature the oil is. Above 300 degrees F, it liquifies, and offers little to no hydrodanymic barrier. Heavier viscosities will take longer to rise to that point versus thinner weight oils. RPM, load, capacity, (turbos will also greatly affect oil temps) and abient temp., will dictate how quickly that happens.

Drive like a granny every where, with a large oil capacity and your engine might be fine. The problem with a 20 weight is that it gets heat saturated to quickly and easily.

What delays that saturation and keeps oil temps cooler, are three things. Oil coolers (tow package 1GR has it, unless you install one yourself), ZDDP (EPA mandated no more than 900ppm. *If you are reading this and don't know what ZDDP is, then look it up and find out why it is necessary for engines*), and capacity (roughly 6 quarts).

This is why the ambient temp chart is a good reference for which weight oil to use. Here's the thing, Manufactures care about EPA requirements of mileage gains. Not protecting your engine. Unless you buy a high-end vehicle. Minimun 30 weight.

Negative ghost rider.

 

I think I understand. Thanks. One thing though....explain the difference between the internal temperature of an engine running on a 75 degree day and a 100 degree day.


God I hate threads like this.

 

WTF Torspd? I've listened to so many of your wise posts and taken what knowledge I can but, brother, the tow package equipped 1GR Tacoma has an oil cooler...

 

Damnit......completely forgot about that one. Was only thinking of air to air oil cooler. Thank you sir.

Edited previous comment. ***

 

About 25 degrees.

 

So I should be running atleast 15w-40 for my outside temp range, looks like my poor truck has been running the wrong oil for 220k miles, I hope I didn't hurt anything.

 

Ambient temps literally have zero effect on what oil weight you run.

Engine temps stay almost the same regardless of ambient temps. Its how the motor is designed depends on your recommended final oil weight and operating oil temps.

FYI i run 0w-30 in my truck even in my relative warm climate as even at 0w cold its still to thick at 75*F to properly lube a motor. 30 weight its what the 1gr is designed for once warmed up so stick with that.... so XXw-30 is what you want.

That stated, 5w-20 i wouldnt be too worried especially as its synthetic. This might actually make the motor run COOLER, as the oil is thinner and can "fit" into tighter spots reducing friction, even though oil pressure will be slightly reduced.

 

Ok, cool, thanks. So the internal temperature of a running motor varies by ambient temperature?

#icant