Current Draw from Battery

Great information. I have read about phone chargers too. I don't have GPS plugged in or a phone charger. The Pioneer does have a rear output to plugin a USB and from the USB cable, you can plug in an iPhone USB to iPhone adapter. I did not have my phone plugged in to it and just for s---t and grins, I unplugged the iPhone USB to iPhone adapter to see if it will make a difference. So it's none of the accessories (lights, stereo system, or backup camera). I even disconnected the fuses to the alarm system to see if it would make a difference in the current that is being pulled and nothing. All I was able to do is narrow it down to that fuse AM1 that I later read powers a lot of things such as Accessories when your key is turned to it and the starter as well. Back to square one I guess. I have read where the remote start that is tied in to the ignition wire (ignition wire was spliced and tapped in to had become corrosive. I just don't know. I had the stereo installed by myself but had no issues with current draw in the past. I am wondering if something else could've gone bad. A buddy told me his friend's harness to the tow plugin harness had gone bad. I did find that fuse and unplugged it, but no difference. Something was still drawing a little bit of current. It was .12 amps constant on my voltimeter.

 

I'm still at a loss as to how you read amps on a volt meter and if you are actually reading amps then .12 amps =120ma and that is well within the normal IOD draw.

 

.12 amps is a very low current draw. if that's all that is being pulled and your battery is dying, then i'd say your battery is no good. did you have it tested by a place that did not sell you the battery?

 

I had it tested by the place that sold it to me and the Toyota garage.
Bubbabud, that is what I had on the voltimeter when set to 20 amps on the dial and the red (+) meter stick plugged in to the DC slot.
Over the next few days, I may let it set and drive the other vehicle to work and see if it goes dead again. Does anyone know what the AM1 fuse goes to? I read where it goes to components that are powered when the ignition is set to "ACC" which means the radio, lights, etc. possibly and also the alternator, which tested out fine as well. This thing just has me baffled.

 

It's drawing .12 amps and the norm according to the garage is .03 amps

 

Found out what it is for. It goes to the ignition to the Accessories which is anything that is powered on with the ACC switched on (stereo, anything in the cigarette lighter or power ports, etc). I have nothing plugged in to those and have already checked the stereo, amps, backup camera. The other thing is to the ignition itself. I had read where someone else was having the issue with their remote starter. The ignition wire was spliced into to go to the remote starter as well and the wire had become corroded that it would draw current. I had already unplugged 2 fuses going to the alarm system though, and it didn't fluctuate at all with or without them plugged in. The tech from the Toyota shop did mention to check fuses within the vehicle behind the change drawer. I had already pulled each one out while my wife held the voltimeter up to the neg terminal and the negative post and none of them caused the drop to go away.
I wish I had something else that was definitive so I could help someone else out in the future should the same thing happen to that person.

 

So do you have a remote start? If so, can you trace to where it is wired into the ignition to see if it's a solid connection with no corrosion?

Obvious stupid question - did you change anything in your electrical system prior to the battery starting to drain? If you didn't change anything, then it has to be something that has become defected and is providing a high resistance to ground. Hopefully it isn't your ignition switch that is failing or your ECU is leaking current. Those would be a b!tch to replace.

 

Let's hope it isn't that! I am planning to do more troubleshooting. I have been having to run my truck in the a.m. 30 mins prior to driving to work. I live 20 mins away from the lot that I park and take a shuttle in to work, so I want to make sure that my battery gets good and charged. I also have been running it in the afternoons. I will do more troubleshooting, but may have to wait for the weekend. Today is going to hit 100 degrees in Charleston, SC! Heat index will be around 105, so I have been putting off working on it in the afternoons.

 

Just to update everyone: I believe it is coming from the DEI Python alarm system with remote start. It has a paging system that will page my remote control to let me know the alarm is going off. I have done a TON of research on this and found multiple users with this issue with similar DEI products. It was on a FJ Cruiser site. My neighbor had a Toyota Tundra and his alarm system did the same (although his may not have been a DEI alarm system). I think the reason why it just started to happen is that I got a federal job and don't have to drive as far as when I worked for a private company. Because the drive is 15-20 minutes versus 30mins - 1 hour away. The AM1 fuse goes to the accessories switch on the steering wheel which powers a variety of things when the key is turned to "ACC." It also is the ignition wire where the alarm's remote start is tied into. I found 2 fuses near the brain of the alarm system and removed them both and the draw was still at .12 amps, but I should have disconnected it completely from the brain.

I had Best Buy install the system, so it was professionally done. The only thing about the alarm was that it was tied in to the fog lights (which had switched off) to conserve the battery if it was armed/disarmed/or going off. They did this perhaps because the daytime running lights (turn signal lights) were disabled by the previous owner.

Anyway, for a cheap fix for this, I ordered a solar battery charger/conditioner from Northern Freight Tools. It simply plugs in your cigarette lighter and keeps the battery charged, but won't overcharge it. I have read from different people who have had my problem, let their car sit for months even and still be able to crank it with one of these conditioners plugged in. The cost is $20 for the unit. It can also charge other battery products, but this is the only thing I will use it for. I can provide an update after it comes in and I have been able to test it.

Why post this? I want to help other owners who may experience a parasitic draw in the future so that they won't have to go through what I went through trying to research it. I do recommend doing that test in the video provided above by another member just to narrow down the cause of the draw. I had just gotten to a point where the garage I sent it to and overcharged me could not find the cause and simply said, it's something you installed. I know I don't do installs by trade, I have done so many that I have really good idea what I am doing. The only thing I don't do (never have and never will) is install an alarm system.

 

Thanks for the update, I have a Pioneer HU and the same JL audio amp I'm getting ready to install. I was following the thread to see if they were the culprit.

 

Solar charger great idea BUT make sure cigarette lighter is not wired through ignition switch.

 

No issues whatsoever since I have had this plugged in. I am using the power port near the cigarette lighter. I recommend this to anyone having this issue. I am wondering if the issue was coming from the 2 way paging system on the alarm system. I have had alarms with remote start in past vehicles, but none with a 2 way paging system (remote control beeps if the alarm is set off).