Help! Soldering aluminum wires

Its the wire in this kit:

$36 KnuKonceptz KCA Complete Oversized 4 Gauge 2 Channel Subwoofer Amp Installation Wiring Kit

http://amzn.com/B0050I6KII

The wires are already all laid out, and im not looking to replace everything. It never occured that this would be an issue.

By prep work, just aluminum specific flux and regular tin/silver solder is enough??

 

I just picked this stuff up at a local welding supply, Harris Al-solder 500. It wasn't cheap, but it should work.

I have two concerns. First the flux claims that it is acidic. Also the solder is tin and zinc based. Any concerns with either of these two things for electrical application?

http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/en/Products/Alloys/Soldering/Lead-Free-Solders/Al-Solder-500.aspx

 

I second connectors or you could go to a electrician shop or store bring the wire and tell them your problem they might be able to help,
If it was me I would find a way use both flux and solder see what works if not crimp with connectors

 

The only specialty stores ive found focus more on welding and jewelry. Fry's is useless.

The Al-solder 500 is no good. It will bond with the wire, but there is no capillary action that you would expect. The solder is just melting where you place it.

 

What terminal are you trying to connect it 2?

 

Multiple. Battery, amp power, ground, signal wires.

 

Can you possibly use connectors? post a picture

 

Im trying to crimp them then solder. The solder bonds find the the terminal, its the wire thats an issue.

 

I looked at the kit only the copper wire will absorb the solder.
In my past experiences with hooking up amp kits I have never soldered the wires to the terminals
if you want a better connection you could always bridge the amp.
What is your goal ? Looks , or A good connection?

 

Hey I found this tip try this:
Re: Aluminium Soldering
Try a drop or cooking/motor oil at the spot where you want to solder and then solder. I have tried it on aluminium foil and it works.

If its a thick metal it might dissipate heat too quickly for it to allow soldering. Then welding is the only option.

 

There is something up here as to why this won't make the connection at the wire as I am now thinking that this wire has some chemical on it.....

 

Sounds like the heated oil would be doing the same as the flux. Though i dont think the Rosin flux is getting through the oxides.

Ive tried this with a torch to increase the heat, it just end up carbonizing and leaving a sticky black film.

 

Heres the thing. See in the Knukoncepts kit im using (never using a kit again). The 14 guage speaker wire is also copper clad aluminum. That has soldered fine using a iron with rosin flux and 63/37 solder.



Im using a Portasol '75 watt' butane torch.

The power cable, that is what is not taking anything. I tried using the iron with the same rosin fux and lead solder. No go. I switched to the torch, it just made a mess, thought the solder did bond to the ring terminal.

If there was some chemical coating on the wire, wouldnt the flux take care of it? Is there a chance a larger iron is the way to go? I think i have a old pistol style soldering gun in storage.

 

Here is the big problem with CCA wire in audio and even other applications.... The aluminum that added to the wire actually reduces the overall size of the wire. a 4ga wire could be a 6ga wire with the amount of aluminium in it. in short you end up with a less quaility wire for a system build.

now the real reason you are having a hard time soldering the larger gauge wires is due to heat loss.

your best bet is to take the ring terminal and put it in a vice. you need to heat the terminal up with a propane torch with some solder placed in it. as it heats up and melts the solder, carefully insert the wire and let it cool down before moving it.

 

I was wondering if the thermal conductivity of aluminum could be keeping it from heating up to where it needs to be. Would a pistol type 100w soldering iron make a difference? I dont at all doubt your advise, im just not sure whether melting solder in the fitting would work for this, as i couldnt crimp it before hand.

 

I have been using these for sometime now but I know they wont work for what you need but they are awesome...

http://www.posi-products.com/newproducts.html

I would go with a lug style or crimp connector for what you are doing to avoid the headaches you are having....

 

The Amazon box with the Aluminum solder wire and LA-CO Aluminum flux just arrived at my door.
Please pray for me.

 

no on the pistol grip.... it will difficult because you need to heat a large surface quickly. the tip on those are generally too small for larger guage wire.

Ultimately you want to quickly heat the wire and apply the solder and let it cool. this really comes into play when you are soldering near components that are heat sensitive. LEDs are one example....

 

Damn dude you want me to pray for you now after you said "We were trying to make your mama illegal here but the demand was too high."

 

Pray for my soldering and ill pray for your mama?