Oregon and Washington BS thread

CVJ is the best. OEM only on CVs

But #woah on the Dana 60... You really doing this??

 

At this point, things are breaking left and right, I need to bomb proof my truck. I drive it like I stole it. Granted I'm still paying this truck off for the next 44 or so months.

I've done the whole 1st gen p/u build in the past but a Tacoma is new to me. I'd go d44 but I'm looking long term. Also looking through sas builds here and other sites, its definitely better to be over built than deal with broken components after every trip in the woods.

I don't have a welder but have a few friends, one in particular who is very good with fabrication that would be able to do what I want. I just need a guide (not the recent rebel off road job) :chuckle: to follow.

40's at the biggest. Then I'm looking at cases etc.. It would be nice to run 37's comfortably. Still not sure if I should go for links or leafs in the front. Lots of research, just need to find what's feasible/dependable in the long run.

I mean for the price of LT I could probably complete a low budget SAS.... If I decide to pull the trigger on my ideas/dreams I'll be driving a Honda civic for the next 6-8months.

 

Be cautious going down that wormhole. It makes a whole lot more sense to go buy a rzr for the trails. I love my truck, don't get me wrong, but it's no 1000cc Rzr.

 

@bobsuruncle :
LT for high speed with reasonable handling on-road
SAS for low speed with trailering around because it's gonna sway.

I would not discount LT for low speed work. An article that Ben used to have compared two 4Runners that were identical except for a SAS and an LT setup, and pitted them against each other at TSF. The article found that the performance was marginally better on SAS, but the LT got hung up less (no front pumpkin) and was capable of DD.
From some other reading, though, a solid axle may hold up better over time if your focus is not high speed.


At the end of the day, all things considered, get the RZR!

 

Have you considered a LC front axle?

 

I did come across a build thread where a guy used a lc axle for the swap. Basically I'm seeing what's out there and how people have done it before I commit to buying pars for a swap. A lc axle is probably the best route to keep it streetable compared to D60's.

 

Anyone have weather stripping for the driver side available?

 

Too hungover to have much input rn. Just wow. I boarded the LT train for DD ability.

 

I remember when doing research for the first ten I had a while back that a LC axle was the way to go. Whether that applies to a 2nd gen...

 

Pretty sure they're not wide enough

 

I stole the rubber off the reg cab door that I bought and recycled, so it's in a bin with your name on it if you need it. It might not be a perfect fit to other door shapes, though

Is that the part you are talking about?

 

Stolen from pirate:

Axle info - Toyota

Stock Toyota front axle measurements for comparison:
55.5" wide, 29" spring perch centers, '79-85 Toyota trucks and 4runners, SA Hubs
58.25" wide, 29" spring perch centers, '79-85 Toyota trucks and 4runners, IFS Hubs
63.5" wide, (set up for coil springs) 90-97 FJ80 and FZJ80 Landcruisers
'86-95 IFS front end is about 58.5" wide
'93-98 T100 IFS front end is about 65" wide

Toyota Rear Axle Widths:
55" wide, '79-85 4wd trucks/4runners - 6 Lug
58" wide, '86-95 4wd trucks/4runners - 6 Lug
56" wide, '79-95 2wd Trucks - 5 Lug
60.75" wide, '95.5-up Tacomas/4runners
66.75" wide, '93-98 T100 trucks

I did find some other info about the front axle on a second gen, they said it was at 66"

1.5" spacers

 

My Taco is 91" wide up front, sidewall to sidewall. Ha!

I would pass on the LC axle. Unless you really enjoy dumping $1000 every time you pop a Birf. Birfields suck, the stock ones last for 200,000+ miles but are easy to pop if you are locked up in the rocks, and the 'moly aftermarket birfs are strong but you can't DD them. Well, you can, but they only last 30,000 miles or so. Plus, it's only an 8" ring gear just like the mini truck. And it's high pinion to boot. It is a step down in strength from stock. The reason they have such a good reputation? 120 hp motors and AWD.

 

I've got experience with birfields coming from a 1st gen p/u. Broke one and switched to longfields. I think they're good, but not for a truck that weighs 5k lbs and pushing 37's or bigger.

 

Bobby Longs are super tough. They are also super soft, almost like spring steel. That makes them capable of absorbing massive shock and torque loads, but they wear very quickly on a DD. I have a worn out set on my '91 FJ80 myself, and I'm trying to decide what to replace them with.

 

Trip report:
Drove the WABDR starting last Thursday until Sunday.

The crew was :
'11 FJ ARB equipped all over and a new battery installed that morning,
'04 Tacoma DCSB but caged and painted Red/Orange/Yellow on top of Silver,
'89 Trooper with 33", sliders, skids, rear locker, new carrier bearing installed the day before,
'03 4Runner - virgin run, 33" with sliders and skids.
'03 Tacoma DCSB - Yeti.

3+ hour drive from Renton to Stevenston (awesome burgers at Viking, across the street from Texaco).

6808 towards Mt. Adams and then encountered the guler ice caves, no ice but very cool on a warm day.
Camped at a solo sight with an American Flag on a stripped tree/pole paracorded to one of the benches.

Lots of FS/NF dusty roads - not sure the snorkel was the best plan but whatever.
Camped as Soda Springs/creek on the 2nd night (not 100% sure of the exact name).
Woke up to some rain which did knock some dust down, but only for a little while.
Ran along the route until RimRock lake, then headed East to get into something else besides FS/NF roads = technical off camber steep rocky sections with lots of downed trees/logs. Had to double hook a 4RN front/rear as the off camber soil was super loose causing sliding into a tree at each turn of wheel or forward/reverse progress. To solve the "problem" (a downed tree blocking the easy way thru), a 30K tow strap and the uber powerful 1st gen Yeti in 4lo locked front/rear with some constant pressure and tugging, the downed tree yielded and was removed from offending other fellow travelers. Video to follow... After unclogging the route and getting the "double hooker" out, we were thwarted by a choice of a straight steep loose skree section or an easier not comfortable off camber section. After three failed attempts via the FJ on the skree section, we turned around and continued back onto the WABDR to Bethel Ridge. Ran 325 up and along Bethel Ridge (amazing views) - turned to go down 1400 to Bear Lake and the campground we were going to park at had some Neanderthal glaring at us as we drove in. Ended up camping along 1400 about 1/2 up between Bear Lake and 325.

In the AM, headed down to Bear Lake again and instead of turning left into the campground, turned right and had a nice hill climb that dropped us off back on top on 325; continued along Bethel Ridge on down to Nile, jumped on the 410 and headed to Little Naches Trail on 18PSI marshmellow tires. Started on the Upper section that has been closed for "erosion abatement" and that section is TIGHT! After passing several NF roads that one can bail out to NF-70, we climb towards the Naches Pass. At a rather fortuitous section of the trail, the clutch on the Trooper $hits the bed. No forward movements. Break out the 30K tow strap and hook it to the FJ and we reverse trail and basically tow/coast out to the backside road the NF-70.

So next time for us, it will be starting at Nile and run up thru Liberty/Wenatchee/Chelan area.
Had fun and would do it again...

 

From a local motorcycle group. If any of you have info, I'll do my best to route it along.

 

Nope. Talking about the roof weather stripping mine went mia yesterday

 

That's actually good you had your snorkel.

Fun fact! Aside from water crossings, snorkels were originally designed to help minimize dust from entering the intake, since it's heavy and doesn't accumulate as much up high. I am seriously considering adding one soon, in addition to water/dust protection it should add slightly better MPGs too!

Thanks for posting this Mike, will keep an eye/ear out.

There's this guy:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tacoma-roof-strips.374905/

I wonder if his brother really works at a Toyota dealer, and if so, why do they keep the weather strips if they are in good condition. It's just the pessimist in me thinking "I bet this guy just goes around town ripping them off Tacos" - same thought I get when I see guys selling a ton of tailgates on CL....

 

Last bit of info I have: