TORSPD: NEVR

The media that the clutch is made out of will have various impacts on how smooth the engagement is. From single friction, to dual friction. Then if the hubs are sprung or not. Sprung are smoother engagement than non sprung. Then back to the friction material. Some materials, take much longer to break-in. What is usually a byproduct of how much HP they are rated for. Along with the spring tension of the pressure plate.

The spring tension will directly affect pedal feel. Making it harder or softer. Mine has a decent tension to it. Which is a little more firm than stock. I also believe that my brake booster has a valve leak which add to that, due to shared clutch/brake reservoir.

Best person to ask would be someone who has one, or Gadget.

 

Yep, youre my first performance advisor i go to for questions, then i start calling the people themselves

 

Huh, darn, as that would be cool to have that capability, TBH i could be happy if they just changed the shift pattern on the Auto shifter so that you can run it through the gears manually easier if you wanted, ive done it a few times and its really awkward going from second to third, so much so that i wouldnt try it unless i was moving from a stoplight.

Also, my auto has the opposite problem, it refuses to kick down and occasionally wants to hang at 2k RPM, but only when its in D, it revs just fine if its shifted manually

 

Disconnect your battery. That way the ecu forgets its learned style. Me it disconnected for 30 minutes. Reconnect. Drive it hard, and manually shift it fast. It will learn new shift points and a different driving style.

 

I always manually shift mine. But it doesn't stop it kicking down.

Figured if I'm going to manually shift it all the time anyway. I may as well have a full manual valve body and a gated shifter

 

Love it..

 

there is no manual vb available
.

 

But you are making one right? I wish...

 

I prefer the zig zag pattern to a straight line pattern. In my Dad's old chevy it was really easy to skip the gear you wanted. Especially going from 3rd to Drive, I threw it from 3rd to Neutral too often... Once you get the pattern memorized it is still quick and you won't skip a gear. I shift it hard when I am out in the dunes and I don't think I could do what I do if it was easy to skip gears...

One better method would be the auto trans in my wife's Mazda 3.


You can just put it in drive and forget about it, or bump it left to manual mode. In manual mode, bump it forward to down shift or back to up shift and it will return to center itself for you to bump it again if you need to go down a few gears. There is a gear indicator on the dash that will tell you what gear the trans is in too! Unlike on our dash where it will only tell you what gear the shifter is set to. It will even hold the gears in manual. If you manual put it in 4th gear it will hold 4th gear right up until you come to a complete stop. If you stop, it will default back to 1st (to protect the trans I'm sure).

This one is in Manual mode and 4th gear. (Best pic I could find) It will still tell you what gear when in Drive.

 

That is basically what I want Brady. I want the Trans to hold the gear no matter the rpm or throttle input (within reason of course). Right now i could be cruising at 30mph and try to leisurely pass someone and it will kick down 2 gears and screem at 4500rpm making me look like a dick lol.

 

Get a MANual

Im able to shift my gears, just take a light touch going from 1st to 2nd without bumping into D. Using the OD on/off button I can control 3rd to 4th. Whats so different in the 2nd gen?

 

Lol wish I could now. But way to much into this truck.

2nd Gens don't have manual overdrive, we can choose from 1st to 4th but it only stops up shifts not kick downs

 

Ahh, I see. Yeah, same here. Generally only shifted out of D when offroad so never had much issue. Shifting is an ECU function IIRC so good luck with that

 

Well I may start looking into a Trans swap then. Would love a manual valve body with a gated shifter.

 

@BradyT88 The Tipitronic is pretty much exactly what i would want as well, im sure i could find/make an adapter, just not sure what needs to be done on the electronic side of things to make it work right

 

The A750 is a wonderful trans. If the oem manual trans wasn't made from glass I'd love to do a swap.

 

the Wife's TC has that.. thats what I use when I drive. so fun to bump through the gears.

I've been pretty impressed with it myself. Between the Valve Body and pullin the trans itself, its easy to work on (minus the top 2 bolts) and is pretty resilient.

 

Ever since I installed the radiator, I have been dealing with the strangest issue. I have attributed it to the Alternator being the measly 80 or 90 amp one that it is.

When my dual SPAL fans kick on, they draw major current. Enough to flicker all of the lights on the truck simultaneously. If the A/C was on prior to the fans coming on, then the fans reached the tempurature to turn on, it used to blow one of the fan's 30 amp fuses.

Recently it had stopped doing so. Found out that the connector had ended up arcing and melting, so one of the fans would no longer work at maximum.

Here is what that looks like



I had already repaired one connecter. This was the second to go bad and clearly needed to be replaced.

Come to the rescue of Mouser Electronics! http://www.mouser.com/Home.aspx

30 amp Delphi connectors, and good to go..Had to select all of the necessary components, but no need to seem as a complaint. Their prices are ridiculously good. I'll snag some pictures of the connectors tonight.

Sealed Delphi connectors versus these which are not.

 

Oh an one more thing. Pistons have been ordered cor Goldylocks. Should be finished in about 3 weeks. Then reassmbly, shortly there after.

9.0:1 compression ratio, and a diameter of 3.800". A whole .1" over stock at 3.701".

Screw "thirty over". I going tenths!

 

<3 Delphi. Have bags of them in my tool box