Long Travel BS Thread

http://fme-cat.com/LiveDocs/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_213013_greaseable_camber_bolt_Eng.pdf

 

I just posted it for you up above

 

yup, we actually make a living out of it.... isn't that weird!? are you looking for the 2001-2004 GenI Double Cab or the 2005-2015 GenII Double Cab? Do you need Door Shells or Complete Doors?

 

This is how I "solid mounted". Tabs came from LSK. Picked up my own hardware and said goodbye to those shitty sleeved cams. You need a heimed upper arm to do your alignments. Was a pain the first time but worth it now.

1-5 by Marc Mayer, on Flickr

1-3 by Marc Mayer, on Flickr

 

WINNING!!

 

I'm not LT but I do use the good info from this thread sometimes.

 

That looks so good! I'm solid mounting very soon. Going move the lower to the point where I get the most caster out of it, then compensate with the upper for camber. How did you align it?

 

Very nice. The other side came out with a little bashing. I might be able to get the other side out, not sure I want to try to figure out how to solid mount it just yet... Kinda wanna be done this weekend

 

If you're thinking of solid mounting in the future, see if you can send your UCA's back and upgrade before you install them.

 

Center them so your heims arnt sticking way out of the upper. I eyeballed my camber and used a degree finder for caster. Had a shop set the toe they said everything was dead nuts

 

1st gen, with door shells (or complete depending on $) not worried about front or rear glass.

 

I'm converting my uppers to heims. Maybe I can leave material to compensate for the amount of turns I would have to move the heims to get the right camber? Trying to add caster to try and move the tires away from the firewall and fit 35s. Should of gone with a different kit that moves the wheelbase fwd but too late.

 

Ohh man your looking for the most desired cab in this industry, for a bare cab with all 4 doors your looking at $3000-$3800 depending on condition

 

You'll gain about a half inch of inner fender clearance if you push them all the way out. Just do cab mount chop no bigee

 

That half inch might just be what I need once I jump to 35s. It has self cleared right now for 33s with an occasional rub. I had it aligned a while back with the most caster out of it while keep a degree of camber and it doesn't touch the cab mount (still trimming it asap).

 

I used jberrys method with a few tweaks. I also have my own turntables so that makes things pretty quick and easy. A pair of toe plates will help get ur toe set easier too.

When adjusting the hiems I used the angle finder zerod on the brake rotor to get close knowing how many degrees camber needed to change from the last measurement on the tables. That helped minimize the times I had to pull the upper arm off to make adjustments

 

You want 6 degrees positive caster for good tracking/handling

 

Anyone have a use for a pillow block carrier bearing? Had this thing sitting in the garage for a year probably! $50 shipped

 

It's amazing how much a little sound deadening will help. Did this yesterday and it quieted the truck down even more. I did a majority of the back floor too, just waiting till all fab in the cab (lol rhyme) is done to finish up. Using one layer of peel n seal, then gonna get real sound deadener over that.

 

How are you converting your uppers to heims? It's been shown in this thread over and over you can't take a bushing upper and convert to heims. @jberry813 has a picture and write up that he posts every time this comes up.