Rough Idle and under load at certain speeds.

fill up your tank with high octane/octane boost, and use

$14 CRC Guaranteed to Pass Emissions Test Formula, 12 Fluid Ounce

guaranteed to pass, you can get it at most autoparts stores. i don't know about seafoam. i know it claims it could be used as an addative for fuel, oil, and tranny fluid, but i saw someone put it into their civic SI engine oil and it turned his car to shit on the spot.

where did you put the seafoam?

 

I purchased a code reader from O'Reilly's

p0301 engine

 

try a NOID light. see if advance auto parts/carquest has one for rent. the carquest i work at gives full refunds so long as there's no damage. plus you already know it's cylinder 1, make it quicker to test.

 

I used Sea Foam in mine when I first bought it. It is well known to cause a CEL when used through a vacuum line. It did on mine. Did you put it into the tank or run it into the engine through a vaccuum line? Unhook the battery and leave it unhooked for about 30 mins. That will reset the ECM. Hook it back up and your CEL just might go away. It did on mine. However, mine wasn't running poorly and I didn't have a scan gauge at the time to even tell me what the code was. It's worth a try.

 

I have run sea foam in my trucks gas tank, vacuum lines multiple times, never caused any issues.

If you do have a dirty clogged injector you can find replacements on ebay

 

the Sea Foam could have also loosened some carbon buildup and causing issues with your injector or even the cat/AF/O2 sensor

I have also run Sea Foam through the tank, crankcase (before oil change), and through the PCV hose to intake. all without problems or codes.

 

I say take the throttle body off, clean the bejesus out of it. And clean your idle air control valve (iacv). The iacv is on the bottom of the throttle body if i recall correctly. Did wonders on my uncle's taco..

 

But did you check your front brakes ?

 

yes akuma I did check my brakes and they were fine. properly functioning.

I ran seafoam thru the tank again and the cel is not on all the time... just flashes on acceleration uphill then goes away after hill.

off at steady speed on freeway.

thru town interminent.
when getting on the freeway, it's weird. flashing. not steady. but goes steady on freeway speeds of 65 then goes off after speed steadies.

I'll take throttle body off and clean that real well. in morning.

 

basically the code reads p0301. cyl 1 misfire but after last treatment it's not as bad?... still exists tho

 

I've heard some pulling the injectors and soaking them overnight to see if it clears anything out?

just throwing that out there (have not tried it myself).

also does the spark plug in Cyl1 look like the rest? Spark test?

 

Im dealing with a no start issue at the moment, so i can add to from what ive been doing.

A Noid light will only indicate pulse voltage to a component, be it an injector or other control valve. The injector could still be bad.

I have not heard anyone recommend a compression check, or if lucky enough, a gas analyzer readout. If you have a friend with a smog shop, a 4 gas readout can tell you exactly what is causing a misfire if you know what to look for. Though a misfire is only caused by less then ideal conditions under compressions (bad a/f mix), or lack of compression.

 

I did check the "new" coil I put on the cylinder and the harness seems loose.... it made a click sound when I pushed it.

maybe the faulty connection is causing the injector probs or the coil probs. will investigate in daylight.

I don't show signs of exhaust probs for compression. I will check that at a shop next week if the "clicking" terminal doesn't solve it.

do u have a feed started for your "no start" problem?
maybe us brainstorming can help you.

 

Break this down and eliminate each one by one. Once you find the WHAT is causing, then its to find the WHY.

Horribly paraphrased from a old CA smog tech study guide:

Fuel:
Too much fuel/too little
-being metered wrong
-feedback being directed to add/deduct too much
-too much in realtion to air

Quality of supply
-volume of fuel injected
-atomization

Air:
Too much/too little
-being metered wrong
-feedback being directed to add/deduct too much (think EGR, idle air, manifold controls)
-too much in relation to fuel

Quality of supply
-volume restriction
-vacuum loss/excess

Spark:
-Timing
-quality/strength of

A/F Mixture:
-too lean
-too rich
-off ignition timing
-poor atomization

Any misfire (that is not driving surface related) will stem form one of these. Determine what is exclusive to the ECU control, then test everything else that inputs to ECU, then test outputs of ECU.

If you can confirm it is one cylinder that is misfiring only, not just by the code reader but by other evidence such as condition of the spark plug and piston surface. Then you can rule out anything that is common to all cylinders:

Fuel:
Too much fuel/too little
-being metered wrong
-feedback being directed to add/deduct too much



Air:
Too much/too little
-being metered wrong
-feedback being directed to add/deduct too much (think EGR, idle air, manifold controls)


Quality of supply
-volume restriction

Which leaves:

Fuel:
Too much fuel/too little
-too much in realtion to air

Quality of supply
-volume of fuel injected
-atomization

Air:
Too much/too little
-too much in relation to fuel

Quality of supply
-vacuum loss/excess

Spark: (per cylinder)
-timing
-quality/strength of

A/F Mixture: (per cylinder)
-too lean
-too rich
-off ignition timing
-poor atomization

 

You know the best way to check if a coil is working for free?

Remove coil
Remove fuel pump relay or unplug fuel pump if possible
Take a good spark plug
Stick plug in coil
Take jumper cable and attach one side to the plug body and other to negative battery terminal Crank engine
Observe spark on every 4 count

And seafoam has never been a 'fix'