Urd maf calibrator tuning help

Hey guys I'm new to Tacoma world and this is my first post. I can't seem to find any info that's relevant to what I've been looking for. So here it goes. I live in SoCal and I just recently got a urd maf calibrator for my 2014 2.7l DCSB prerunner, and they sent it to me untuned because they said they didn't have the specific setup for what I have (volant intake w/air dam scoop and LCE headers). So my question is, does anyone know where I can get it tuned or if anyone in SoCal is familiar with the tuning?

 

The URD Maf calibrator is based on the hardware from Split Second. My advice would be to find one of the Split Second dealers and see if any of them offer a custom tuning service.

https://splitsec.com/dealers/

 

Have them send you a different map to get started and you'll have to tune it from there..... The map they loaded on mine needed lot of tweaking but it's a good starting point to understand how the mapping works.... Tune for 12/1 A/F from mid throttle on and it will run really well.... For part throttle add as much fuel as you can stand for the mpg's.... More gas will pull hard but mpgs drop fast, but it runs so good......

I have a K/N filter, intake spacer and 2 1/2" cat back with a straight through round muffler....
At 3.5 and above I'm at 10 and 10.2 over 5000 rpm, from 1.6- 3.3 1500-2000 10.6, above 2500, 10.8 above 5000 11... at 1.4 10.4 works good....
That get's me to 12/1 F/A ratio and pulls really good.....

 

When you say 3.5, 1.6 and 1.4 you are talking about the TPS reading so 70%, 32% and 28%? Is it right? Just wanna understand your settings cause they sound strange for me.

The other number like the 10, 10.2, 10.6 and 10.4 are the value of the cell in your map?

I'm asking cause you seem to add a lot of fuel in closed loop area and the only result is the same AFR (14.7) but a larger Fuel trim. And for the open loop area, at WOT or close WOT you still adding fuel but normaly you need to remove fuel, lot of fuel in this area cause those trucks running f/$?%" rich. Your map seem to be totaly different than the ones i've done.

Whit all my respect, just try to understand.

 

the 3.5, 1.6 ect is the throttle position and 10 - 11 is the cell value..... I've increased the air flow to the point that in full open loop I can run 10, "10= stock fuel over 10 adds fuel" I started around 9.5, but at full throttle I'm still running a lot less fuel than at 50% - 75% throttle.....

when you add fuel in closed loop it will still adjust to 14.7 but you are tricking the computer to run richer because it runs at 12 and then adjust to 14 so the truck will run better and when you crack the throttle it will run off your map for around 10 to 20 seconds before the computer starts to go back to 14, so part throttle acceleration is way better but for long runs like on the dunes you need to crack the throttle again to run off the map......

So I'm adding a lot of fuel at mid throttle and I'm up to stock settings at full throttle... I just tweaked the map he loaded for me, the biggest difference is, I went back to stock at idle and add more fuel at higher RPMS.....

 

So what tools do you need to do a tune yourself?

 

Just a laptop and a whole lot of brain cells...

 

Wow really, because I was reading somewhere here that you needed a wideband and obd2 controller before you start a tune. So that you know what exactly your a/f ratio is. Is it possible to mess up your truck by tuning it wrong?

 

Well...you could be right I am just basing that off of what URD told me many years ago when I bought mine. Gadget acted like it was a piece of cake and all I needed at the time was a laptop with windows 2000 pro I think it was at the time. There were no dealers here in SD at the time but I found a shop willing to do it if I could find a laptop with that old OS...which never happened so I've just been running the tune it came with.

 

1. urd maf cal with software and preload map
2. laptop
3. serial to usb cable and driver
4. F/A meter, if you have one not a necessity, but it will help tuning when you do more mods....
5. open/ country road
6. radar detector, a good idea
7. an assistant, or just wing it like I do...
8. lots of patience, I'm still fine tuning after a year....

Copy and save the original map so you have a base line... and make small adjustments.......
Install the maf cal and have them preload a map for you for a starting point... the maf cal will work good even on stock trucks...
when you connect the laptop and start the truck you can see your cell position, as soon as you start the truck it will run better...
start with a short rolling start in 2nd or 3rd gear hit the gas to find a cell location you want to fix for a few seconds, I started with 50% at 2000 rpm
pull over turn off the truck and add fuel to the cells range you are testing 1 or 2 tenths and up load the map and reset and restart the truck...
do the same rolling start in the same cell range it should pull much better, you can stop at any time or
repeat until it seams to be the same or worse than go back to the last setting that was better....
next repeat at higher rpm
now focus on the next throttle position.....
when you get the hang of it start tuning at full throttle a few second at a time at different rpms ....
When it feels good start doing longer runs watch the cell location and listen to the engine you will and feel and hear the good and bad spots in the map
finally do full dead stop runs, and runs the way you normally drive and tune the map to way you drive....
You can build a good map in a few hours but there is no rush you can change the map anytime...
Finally drive the truck for a few days or a week and see how you like it....

if you add fuel it will get worse mpg, that is the part I'm working on now I think I have max power but bad mpg but when you can spin the 32s and throw you back in the seat is too cool...

101 on how to seat of the pants tune.... Good luck.......

 

I've been tuning for years so I can just wing it, but a way to check your F/a ratio would make it much easier and quicker when you do up grades but with the maf cal it tunes really fast and you can just go section by section not all at once. If you make small adjustment the worst that will happen is it could run worse and than you just back it down..... now I'm using dash command app to help with tuning....

 

I have windows 7 and the software works great..... You can defiantly improve over the std map with a little work....

 

Thankyou, I guess I'm just scared to mess the truck up but I'm going to definitely try this. You make it sound so easy lol.

 

The software i have is from 2007 or 08' and will only run on XP or 2000 pro...so the disc makes a good beer coaster now. I actually don't even own a windows based device anymore and I'm not allowed to add software to my work PC so I'm pretty much SOL

 

Adjusting your fuel map w/o a wideband O2 sensors is recipe for disaster. I wouldn't do it. Ever. You say you don't want to mess up your truck then you need to bite the bullet and buy a good quality wideband O2 sensor kit. Period. Tuning blind is a fools chore & w/o that WB you have no idea what's going on. Things can go bad quickly when you're talking tuning your fuel maps.

 

If you go a tenth at a time one section at a time it is really safe and easy just takes time. You can feel each change... But you will also use more gas so after a few adjustment you could have a good map for everyday use...

 

2 things,

It doesn't take 10 or 20 seconds to the computer to come back to 14.7 in closed loop. If you had an AFR gauge you would know. It's like 1/10 of a second. So at mid throttle if in closed loop dont think you trick the computer. You only trick the LTFT when in Closed loop and when on a transition area where closed and open loop can happen, you propably run too rich.

Maybe you increased the airflow with your mods (and there is not so much mods) but the MAF read this increase and then adjust to maintain the programmed AFR. So you dont have to increase the fuel to take care of your mods.

Man, install an AFR gauge.