1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Drum brakes, simple or get 'em done professionally?

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by ZMan2k2, Jul 27, 2015.

  1. Aug 3, 2015 at 11:57 AM
    #21
    JJ04TACO

    JJ04TACO Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2013
    Member:
    #114311
    Messages:
    1,239
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jim
    Dallas
    Vehicle:
    04 White DC/TRD
    Fox 2.5 RR front, 2.0 RR rear from AccuTune Offroad, OME Dakar Leafs, Camburg Uniball UCA's, CBI Offroad Bolt on Sliders w/kickout, Scangauge II Uniden Bearcat 880 w/ 3' Firestick on CBI antenna mount B&M Trans Cooler
    I did my drums for the first time ever a few months ago. I advise having a friend as a second set of eyes and hands.

    A few things I learned:

    It's easy if you do some reading and research first. My OEM drums and shoes were still looking good after 140k mi. Drums were about .01 in spec and the shoes had about 1/3 pad left. I replaced them anyway. Drums come off fine. A rubber mallet or dead blow will break them free and not blow out your ear drums or damage anything important if they get stuck. The bolt trick also works well as it's less effort and very easy. I used a set of spring pliers with hooked ends that helped a ton. If you use pliers use vice grips. Taking it all apart was easy, as was assembly, if you just go slow and be patient. My only issue was adjusting the shoes after. This is my tip.

    When you have it all together cleaned and lubed, adjust the shoes so that the drum will barely go back on. Only put it on part way while test fitting it just in case. There is a knifes edge where it won't go on and where it will be loose. Note the direction the adjuster must go to tighten. Practice turning it a few times with a screw driver from the back of the backing plate with the drum off so you can see what you are doing and how it all works so you can visualize what you are doing with the drum on. There is a clip/tab that will click that you must push to loosen it if you need to. If you get it just so the drum turns and will barely rub the shoes you are close and only will need to tighten it one or two clicks. Volia you are done.

    Adjust your parking cable if needed.
     
  2. Aug 5, 2015 at 10:26 AM
    #22
    ZMan2k2

    ZMan2k2 [OP] “Hold my beer and watch this!”

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2011
    Member:
    #62491
    Messages:
    1,836
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Richard
    ‘Berta
    Vehicle:
    06 Rad Red DCLB SR5, ‘25 SS Red Sport Prem. (on order)
    Seems like there's a lot of reports of 100+k miles on the drums. In miles, I have about 70k. Maybe all they need is an adjustment, and I definitely have to adjust my parking brake. Thanks for all the tips.
     
  3. Aug 5, 2015 at 10:29 AM
    #23
    Taco me elmo

    Taco me elmo Here, Eat some paint. Drink some Bleach.

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2010
    Member:
    #43412
    Messages:
    4,551
    First Name:
    Tophat bobcat
    North of South, East of West
    Vehicle:
    Slow polished TuRD
    Anti theft 5-Speed
    I have 205k miles, I have only cleaned and adjusted my rear brakes.

    They are fine.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top