LR UCA long bolt torque

Just did the latest washer/sleeve update on the driver side first. I've read that the final torque of the long UCA bolt should be done with the tires on the ground, even though the SPC instructions don't say that. I decided to do it that way and am concerned the akward angle maybe doesn't give a proper torque because of the short amount of space between the tire and fender flare. It felt too tight. Like way more than 85 ft lbs tight when my wrench finally clicked. Anybody else experience this? I know my torque wrench is accurate and in good working order.

This is was done with a combination wrench holding the head of the bolt on the side by the battery, and my torque wrench on the nut which would be toward the cab.

Just want to make sure I did this properly and didn't over torque somehow.

 

Bueller? Bueller?

 

I installed the LR UCA's this last weekend - I tightened with the wheel off / still on jack stands. I can see where torqueing on the ground with the wheel on would be awkward and maybe skew how it felt but I don't see it making a big difference to final UCA position or bolt load. For the same 85 ft-lbs the main thing that would drive more load in the bolt would be if the treads were dry or lubed. Dry threads consume torque just in overcoming friction, where greased threads will get more turns of the nut / bolt (and more actual load in the bolt) for the same wrench torque. If you trust your wrench and were clicking out at 85 ft-lbs I wouldn't sweat it. With this size bolt even greased you aren't going to over torque at 85 ft-lb. Just the fact you clicked out at the set torque is what you want to hear... it's those times when you don't click out and you keep turning that you yield / stretch / can fail the bolt from too high a set torque.