Help with power window

Well my drivers window doesn't work. The problem has been gradually getting worse for the last two years. The window will go down just fine but when going up, it goes part way then stops. If I pull up on the window while holding the switch it will continue going up until about a second after I let go. It's pretty annoying.

First I replaced the switch panel. Found a good deal on one and swapped it, it seemed to help for a little while but the problem was more intermittent then (around a year ago).

Well I finally was fed up with it and it's getting worse so I bought a new motor (not including a regulator). Swapped it in tonight and it does the SAME DAMN THING. It might even be worse.

The regulator seemed to work just fine when I had it detached from the motor which makes me think it's an electrical problem but I don't have a multi meter. My Dad worked for Fluke for like 30 years so I should have one but I don't.

Any ideas out there as to what the problem is?

 

how does the passenger side work?

have you sprayed silicone in the window seal track to lube it?

 

Passenger window works fine from driver's switch, but only goes up from passenger switch. I've not tried silicone, will do. Thanks!

 

ok based on that its your drivers door switch is bad

you need to get another one or you could take it apart and try cleaning it.

they get full of crud and the contacts stop making contact and sometimes the get burnt or sometimes they just need cleaning.

search the forums, I saw a post showing how to take it apart to try to clean it but if it were me I would just get another one.

ebay is a good place to find them http://www.ebay.com/itm/01-04-Toyot...OEM-/301696129761?hash=item463e7d9ae1&vxp=mtr

or try here http://www.car-part.com/index.htm

 

Most likely cause, gummed up rails if track style regulator

or wheels and track if cable style regulator.


these are just examples!!!

Also, track style has that spring that is supposed to help lift it. that may have broken off. but not likely.

Other less likely situations are bad grounds, damaged motor internals, and gummed/dirty internal gears.

Keep in mind, the door itself has small channels in the front and rear of the window itself, that may be dirty/gummed.

My bets on things are just gummed/dirty. Remove everything from the interior of the door. shine a flashlight around and look for dirty spots. spray silicone on plastic on plastic parts, and dry graphite on metal to metal contact parts. If you see spots where grease is used for metal to metal, use that instead.

Then again, you can always hook the motor straight to the battery with leads to see if bypassing the stock wiring makes it work better.

 

Break down get a multimeter your going to just frustrate yourself.

The window motor you bought was it a new one??

I take it the Master control switch was used ?? Water getting into the Master switch can also create havoc as well.

I have to think things need lubed as well dry regulators work hard as well as dry window channels

 

Thanks for the replies. The motor is from an auto parts store and one thing says refurb, another label says new so I'm not sure. The switch was new as far as I know, from switchdoctor.net I'll report back after I've tried lubing the regulator and/or figured it out.

 

Something to remember if for what ever reason something corrosion ,poor connection physical damage to wires.

To that window motor causing reduced voltage the motor will not have enough power to work the window.

A meter is good to read just what is going on.

12VDC direct to the window motor to see if things work like they should then trouble shoot your way to the problem if they do.

 

Got it! Thanks for the prodding to get a multimeter, it saved me a lot of time I think. So I pulled the door apart again, removed the regulator and motor, cleaned and lubed everything. Also checked the relay which was working fine. Then I checked the voltage coming to the motor and found it had 12v, good consistent power.
This was key because prior to this I had thought it was going to end up being a short or some other wiring issue. Next I removed the regulator from the motor and plugged the motor back in and it still didn't work isolated from the rest of the system. Motor was def the problem which is stupid because it was the one I just got from the store.

Back to the store, got another new motor, and the window works fine. I noticed in the process that the second motor I bought came with splice connectors... the first one didn't. When I got the first one home and noticed no connector I called the store and they said yeah it doesn't come with them, d!cks. The first one they sold me I think must have been returned as a bad motor and they put it back on the shelf. Anyway thanks for all the suggestions.

 

Glad you have it figured out