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Wrenching Help in Murrieta

Discussion in 'Southern California' started by JCfromDEMELLO, Aug 24, 2015.

  1. Aug 24, 2015 at 1:03 PM
    #1
    JCfromDEMELLO

    JCfromDEMELLO [OP] Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Had to sell 'em all
    Hey Gents,
    Long time since my last post but things have changed dramatically in my life since then.

    For starts, I don't work at Demello anymore. So I guess I'm JC-notsomoch-fromdemello now?

    Anyway, I've got a situation on my hands here. My truck is over 239k miles at this point and my my carrier bearing/center support bearing (whatever you call it) is shot. Driveline chatter and noise has gotten pretty bad in the past few days. I have the part but even after calling on my old employer, no one has a claw puller to get the old one off. I really do not excel at this stuff, am between pay days, and I guess I'm just seeing if anyone can at least loan me a puller and the use of a vice? I could probably scrounge a torque wrench from somewhere if I have to.

    Anyone willing or capable? Or at least have some tools I could borrow? I live Murrieta, near Menifee, just off the 215 and I drive to Pendleton for work every day, if that helps.

    Sorry to come straight outta nowhere after such a long absence and start askin for shit but I'm in a pickle here and I've exhausted my options.

    Thanks in advance, Gents.
     
  2. Aug 24, 2015 at 1:35 PM
    #2
    JCfromDEMELLO

    JCfromDEMELLO [OP] Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Had to sell 'em all
    Murrieta, Temecula, Menifee area. I can reimburse generosity with beer or cash (or both?) by next week and you can publicly shame me here if I don't :)
     
  3. Aug 25, 2015 at 6:15 PM
    #3
    MadTaco461

    MadTaco461 BRO runner

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  4. Aug 25, 2015 at 6:22 PM
    #4
    HAVVOKK

    HAVVOKK Well-Known Member

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    Fucking look it up
    I'd help you out man depends on when you want it done I've never done it but pretty good at taking shit apart and figuring out how to put it back together:sawzall::welder:
     
  5. Oct 20, 2015 at 1:18 PM
    #5
    JCfromDEMELLO

    JCfromDEMELLO [OP] Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Had to sell 'em all
    So update: Made a new friend at work and replaced the bearing last sunday. Here's the thing; I had put this off forever because it was supposed to require pullers and shit. The bearing slid right the hell off. Only thing that needed some encouragement via pullers was the flange for the driveshaft (and we turned the puller pinion by hand, didn't even need air tools). We torqued the nut back down to specs and realized we'd left off the shims that fell out so we took it back off. Still didn't need to use pullers. Torqued it to 155 ft lbs.
    So now I got this thing on and the vibration is significantly reduced and a lot of noise is gone. But just about two weeks ago a clunk started when dropping into gear. Its still there after replacing the bearing. Mainly from 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4. I checked the tranny mounts and didn't see anything, not even typical wear and tear. Engine mounts, don't know. I'm hoping this hasn't progressed to the level of tranny/throw out bearing problems. I can let off a little easier on the clutch and avoid it sometimes too.
    Second problem is, where can I find replacement hardware for the flange, i.e., the nut and washer? Didn't come with the bearing (obviously) and I'm worried about the fact that mine is original equip with 240k miles on it now and now been removed and retorqued at least twice.

    Thanks for any help guys.
     
  6. Oct 22, 2015 at 2:04 PM
    #6
    quetzal

    quetzal Well-Known Member

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    Long Beach, CA
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    All-Pro UCAs, King 2.5 C/Os, All-Pro Expo Leafs, Bilstein 10" Shocks
    Hi,
    Regarding the clunking noises, when was the last time you greased your u-joints? Or even inspected them? Hopefully the bad cb might didn't prematurely wear them out. You should grease them and see if that alleviates the problem. Here's a link that talks in detail about the subject: I'm no expert but I would imagine that you would be ok with the OEM hardware. If I were that worried, I'd go with a new oem. Not aftermarked nor junk yard.

    Just my .02, good luck.
     
  7. Oct 22, 2015 at 2:10 PM
    #7
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    Lakeside, Ca / Gardnerville, Nevada
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    Grey wire MOD, deck plate, diff breather MOD, 2nd gen. OME 883# on Tundra 5100's, OMD custom 3" leafsprings, rear shock relocation, Ivan Stewart TRD rims w/285/75/16's, '02 bumper MOD, Famous Fabrications sliders , LED interior/exterior lights, bed bar, Custom tube bumper, Old school KC day lighters,Red Ring 8" HID flood, Kenwood vhf 2M.. umm some other shit I'm forgetting right now
    But.... you're in Vegas....
     
  8. Oct 22, 2015 at 2:12 PM
    #8
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

    Joined:
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    Lakeside, Ca / Gardnerville, Nevada
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    Grey wire MOD, deck plate, diff breather MOD, 2nd gen. OME 883# on Tundra 5100's, OMD custom 3" leafsprings, rear shock relocation, Ivan Stewart TRD rims w/285/75/16's, '02 bumper MOD, Famous Fabrications sliders , LED interior/exterior lights, bed bar, Custom tube bumper, Old school KC day lighters,Red Ring 8" HID flood, Kenwood vhf 2M.. umm some other shit I'm forgetting right now
    Stock leafs ? Axle wrap ?
     
  9. Nov 27, 2015 at 6:12 PM
    #9
    JCfromDEMELLO

    JCfromDEMELLO [OP] Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Had to sell 'em all
    So, further update: First, the clunking.

    Rear u-joint had gone so bad that my rear drive shaft actually had a bit of travel up and down wise. One of the bearing caps had blown and the whole thing was borderline snapping apart. Took the drive shaft off, brought that plus parts to pep boys (I don't wanna hear it... last resort here) Dumbasses replaced it for me and in the process installed it as such that I can't get a grease gun in there on the zerk for the new one. So I hope this one lasts a while till I get the patience to take it back off and tell them to switch it around in there. Hard to explain without pics, sorry. I guess I should add at some point, my truck is 15 years old, 243K on the odo, maybe 40K off road. I'm lucky I made it this long on original equip I suppose.

    Second, I was still hearing a metal-on-metal scraping noise. It got considerably worse a few weeks ago. One Sunday I finally felt my truck vibrating more than usual so I pulled over and checked my wheels and sure enough had some play in the passenger side wheel. Drove it home, jacked it up, wheel play was bad, sound was worse. Both front bearings are going bad. Fuck. I had no choice (financially) but to make due till I could get the funds to do something about it.

    So today ...

    Drive to work. Normal noise. Drive home, get halfway out of Pendleton and "woom woom woom woom woom" followed by the occasional "THUD-scraaapppee". Driver's side wheel bearing is D-O-N-E. Somehow, partly out of stubbornness, partly out of desperation, I limped my poor truck home, on the verge of seizing and getting fucked royally at any moment. Made it home (barely). Pep boys wanted $700 in labor alone. So now...

    I got some labor to do this weekend. I guess the question I have now is how much do I really NEED the pullers just to separate the ball joints and tie rod ends? I can NOT afford to have a shop do everything and I HAVE to get this thing done by Sunday night/Monday morning.

    In short, FML.
     
  10. Nov 27, 2015 at 7:57 PM
    #10
    MadTaco461

    MadTaco461 BRO runner

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    http://eastmanlexustoyota.com/

    Hit these guys up for a quote. I had them work on a camry that I had. They are local to you and work on toyota exclusively. Also Temecula Auto Repair and Radiator is a good shop. Good Luck.
     
  11. Nov 27, 2015 at 8:00 PM
    #11
    MadTaco461

    MadTaco461 BRO runner

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    Wheel bearings require a big press. Only a shop can do that or at least someone setup to do the whole thing.
     
  12. Nov 29, 2015 at 2:59 PM
    #12
    JCfromDEMELLO

    JCfromDEMELLO [OP] Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Had to sell 'em all
    Got everything out. Took about six hours of labor across last night and this morning. Ball joints and axle nut were a BIIIITTTCCCHHH. Had to pull both ball joints because the plate on the lower side ...well, this is where I stop and remind every one how much I despise working on my own vehicle. I spent 11 years pretending to enjoy mechanic work in the military, followed by 5 1/2 years at Demello doing everything I could to avoid anything beyond welding. So four bolts on the plate the lower ball joint mounts to. ONE decides to get rounded off and won't come out. So I had to separate both joints and take the whole damn thing off. Destroyed my ball joint dust covers. Only have new uppers and can't afford lowers till next week.When I wrench, if its bad and it can happen, it'll happen to me. I hate this shit.

    Knuckle and bearing are at a pep boys getting pressed ($40 out the door, got the parts myself). Using local shops like the one you posted, that's great and all but, well, they aren't open on weekends. This was an emergency situation.

    Gonna be another long night. Hope this works :/
     

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