Hypoxic Chronology

The home computer is always logged on so you got a false alarm.

 

Did you try yota yard for your spindle??

 

I did. He had a 4runner but only the driver's side was any good on that one. No passenger spindles.

 

In keeping with the "cheap bastard" theme of my build, I picked up a used set of spc ucas.

I can see what people mean about the powder coating. It almost seems as though they weren't cleaned up real well prior to coating as there was some cancer bubbling.

Nothing that couldn't be fixed with a wire wheel and some spray paint.
The construction otherwise seems fine.

Picked up some new ball joints at toytec today to go with them.

 

Pulled the new ball joints apart to see how everything worked.
I don't think the grease is actually lubricating anything.
I think it's sole purpose is to keep out dirt and moisture.

 

Yeap we talked to the SPC guy yesterday. There is actually some lube in the ball socket but primarily it has the plastic based friction coating on the ball and a little ploy lube at assembly. I took away from the guys that the ball joints are use em as is and replace them when they get loose. Similar to a uni ball that just doesn't squeak.

Odd what you say about the powder coating. Mine are not rusted at all and they are going on 4 seasons now.

 

hows the son doing? did he end up kicking sean where the sun don't shine? ha ha ha

i was still laughing about that whole scene later that evening

 

To add what gramps said. The grease works as a barrier to keep water, mud or fine sand from creeping up into the teflon sleeve or whatever material that the ball sits in. I assume that helps a lot because once any kind of small sand or rocks gets in there, the weaker of the two materials will give out faster. Over time things brake down and they are going to need replacing. All and all you still get your monies worth. .02 Think of the grease as a barrier not a lube.

 

So do you have a line on a set yet?

 

Hoping to pick up a passenger side tomorrow and then drop it, the drivers side, and the gussets at insain fab.
maybe get the truck back on the road this weekend?

 

Cool, you missed some epicness this weekend, get this thing rolling!

 

Thanks for rubbing it in

 

I agree after seeing the internal construction, and after changing one, it's not that big of a deal. It's just a quieter version of a uni-ball. With some much needed adjustability.
But, I cleaned the old one off, I'll post some pics up later. It's rusty as hell.
I still say they need more grease. I received a couple more today that I ordered earlier and filled the boots with grease before I put them in the ammo box that I affectionately call the "front end parts box", which contains a set of outer and inner tie rods as well as lower ball joints. Aside from axle shafts and spindles, I got the front end covered now.

 

Did a whole bunch of work to the truck today....

A bent spindle on the trail turned into:

• New (used) gusseted spindles
• New tie rods
• New (used) UCAs
• and since I was that deep into things, I decided to pull the LCAs and clean up the cam bolts/sleeves

Left the axles in and the coilovers hanging from the top mount and that's about it.
Felt like I was a little bit of cutting and grinding away from a SAS







As far as alignment goes, I put the upper ball joint one step forward which I understand should be 1 degree caster over stock UCAs. I also pulled the upper ball joint to it's furthest out position (camber)

On the cam bolts, on the advice of @lotsoftoys I started with the rear bolts outboard and the front bolts down.

I just tried to make the tie rods have even threads showing. I figure tomorrow I'll get some help and do a tape measure toe adjustment. Hopefully that should get everything good enough to make it down to the alignment shop.

 

Nicely done. Good to see your back and running again.

 

So having even threads showing on the tie rods left my steering wheel crooked about 90 degrees and the toe was all kinds of funky.

About half a dozen trips around the block and some tape measure adjusting and my wheel is now straight and the toe seems good.

It drives straight and the camber doesn't look bad eyeballed. It'll be interesting to see my "before" numbers when I get it on an alignment rack.

 

What kind of tie rods did you end up using? Are the bushings and LBJ of LCA still good?

 

I got some moog tierods from rock auto.

the ends of them have grease zerks. Seems like a good idea to me.

lower ball joints seemed fine. 60k + miles now.

the front cam sleeves were pretty rusted, don't know how much longer I had before they would've seized but I was able to get them out.

I cleaned them up spotless and greased them good.

I'm actually sitting outside firestone right now waiting for an alignment. Truck drove great on the way here so I'm anxious to see the "before" numbers.

 

That's great. You did a great job. I may end up doing something similar with my front end soon. The tie rods sound great. I too am curious as to the alignment values will be.

 

"Before" numbers

Not too bad for a dumbass with a tape measure and a couple wrenches.
Of course, all I really did was the toe.
the lca cams i just had symetrical.

This kid at the firestone is really good. He listens to my explanations and gets what I'm after.

I told him to shoot for just a touch of negative camber and as much caster as we could get out of the lcas. Shouldnt have to touch the ucas but he understands whats up with them if we need to.​