Long travel DIY

I meant if you where to build both upper and lower with the points moved forward an inch so to add an inch of wheel base and helping with rubbing of larger tires. You cvs will be fine unless your stupid and can't account for your inch in z travel. Of an inch... Better?

 

Yea but then youd be rubbing the front lol

 

Not if you have cut away things or have a front bumper other than oem. and had proper bump stops. That goes for any set up. Also thinking with tires you only would need a half inch of forward movement to clear roughly an inch bigger tire. ( roughly because there is not a strait line relation with A tires change in height and outer part of tire where the Rubbing would occur.

 

Soooo... Move the tire forward to avoid some cutting, thus causing you to cut more in the front...

 

No you have les rubbing in the front and If so then you can tub. But it's way easier to do in the front then on your fire wall. I'm not going to run a 4+ inch lift to fit tires unless need be and that is an easier fix building your own arms then cutting other things. To fit. And if one is capable to build a functional long travel then I think one can do work to clear tires. Which is easier to do in front of the tire well then behind.

 

Well right now 33's clear at full bump and turn from the body mount and firewall, and moving the whole setup forward would affect bumpsteer a bunch too( theoretically)

 

I get what your saying, but how much bigger tires u want to run? 35's are pushing the limit on the front drivetrain, and with s hammer work they will fit nice, castor change through the travel affects tire clearance too

 

35's would be max I would run and if I went through that trouble of doing that I would move the rack forward or what not. Not hard. Also please share how moving both points forward the same distance will change caster???? Besides the bump steer factor, your doing the same thing as if you cut the frame side mounts off and relocated them an inch forward. So how is that changing my caster when the suspension is cycled. And again not saying I was going to do this (might have to now) but it would work if both are moved in the same delta x amount.

 

The angle in the top a arm axis might fuck ya, please man try it, I'm not trying to reinvent stuff just doing my take on a 3.5 over kit with 4wd. I wanted to not have to change a whole bunch of stuff to custom mounts and whatnot. Especially when crap breaks

 

In the future I'll be making secondary hoops, crossover brace, and Hiemed upper arms

 

This is not correct.

 

I do like the work and time you put into this and it turned out awesome. And understand you just wanted a cheaper and more fun way of doing a LT set up. And sorry about furthering a question you had early on about it, and hijacking your thread. It looks really good.

Jake,

 

we can all agree on the fact that you can fit 35s or bigger with a 3.5 LT kit with spindle being in the same x position i was just asking this an a parenthetical what if way, it can be done and with good results if you take in the few problems with understanding, of what they are affecting. Did not mean to step on any of the "LT gods" toes just saying a point.

 

Parenthetical?

 

Moving everything forward 1" will cause such a large amount of issues its not even worth it. Tub your firewall, cut the cab mount back, call it day.....or reinvent the wheel and move it all forward an inch!

 

Yes it's possible, just need to consider all the variables