Used tacoma, many issues

well $5,800 is too much, maybe $2800-$3k is about decent price if the body interior and frame have nothing wrong with them so my opinion is, you got hosed for about $3k too much.

you could likely buy a parts truck for $2k to $3k and have all the parts you need to make it right and the truck would be worth at least $10k when you are done so you wouldn't be underwater on it in my opinion but im not as familiar with 4wd as 2wd trucks so im sure others can give you better advice on 4wd valuations

 

auto or manual tranny

 

look here for stuff you need https://www.tacomaworld.com/forums/1st-gen-tacoma-marketplace-1995-2004.121/

and for things you just cant find, try here http://www.car-part.com/index.htm

 

Manual.

 

Don't panic - get some used parts to fix it, there are plenty on here and locally (assume you are in CA)...you can do most of the work yourself. - if it comes out cheaper than expected give it a 299 Maaco paint job in original black and you're golden

 

I'm not paniced per se. More disappointed or discouraged really. The budget is pretty tight, and while new axles and front suspension parts were going to be manageable for a noob, a new diff I'm not so sure about. But it is a secondary vehicle so there's no hurry to fix it up. I'll have to find out what something like will cost used. First thing first! I gotta get it registered! LOL.

As of now it is driveable. The cv's aren't popping or showing the tell tale signs of failure yet. So I think as long as I keep it in 2wd I can still drive around town once in a while.

I appreciate everyone's help. I know I'll be back asking more questions since it has multiple issues. And for now I'll just keep an eye out for a used diff.

 

well for things you need to buy new check rockauto.com they have the best prices "most" of the time so always compare elsewhere but they are usually the best source. when you go there choose the parts with the red hearts next to them, these are how they mark the most popular parts based on reliability, quality, and price. http://www.rockauto.com/?a=G-motormite

if you need to find your part numbers for something go here and put in your vin number to see a parts number list for your truck http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/q.html

 

If the CVs aren't yet clicking, they might be able to be re-packed and saved with new boots. I know that's often more work/nearly as much (or more) than buying remanufactured axles with new CVs ... but could be better/longer lasting than remanufactured axles. (There are front-drive cars where this is very sage advice; these guys here will let you know if something similar applies to these trucks.)

Sounds like the 4x4 capability can wait until you get the suspension sorted properly.

 

the cv half shafts only cost $42 and $43 for each side so its pointless not to just replace the whole thing, you will spend $25 just for the new boots for one side so its pointless to repack or try to repair them

 

Where do I go for those prices? Napa has already been recommended as a source for axels, but not sure of their pricing yet.

 

Ah OK, so it's not the same situation then. I didn't know the remanufactured parts would last as long as OEM for these trucks. Thanks.

 

You guys aren't going to believe this but the diff isn't cracked. I just looked again and it's fine. That photo just happened to get the shadow of the grease at just the right angle. If you zoom in a lot you can see it's just a shadow. I'm so relieved. I also looked real close where the axle goes into the diff and I can see oil leaking from that point. So now I'm back to a manageable situation. Wheeewww!!!

 

That's good. Damn convincing shadow!

 

Just curious was this a case of really not knowing what to look at pre purchase or were you over come by Lust for this truck.

Till you get done rebuilding the front suspension and axles if you can do the work a SAS might be more cost effective .
After doing the tie rods and ball joints and cv axles the cost of the parts does add up.

 

You bought a project, you have a project. I bought a 99 Honda Accord for my daughter a couple of years ago, with bad CV joints, we paid 3k for the vehicle and have since put tires, brakes, battery, starter into it, the usual stuff, but the weak honda transmission set us back 2.5k more.

With the money you have into it, it is a toss up between fixing and flipping and moving up or trying to salvage a poorly maintained vehicle.

†he prices of decent used vehicles is high and the local market drives the bus

Let us know.

Howard

 

I'd fix it myself, cv axels are easy to change, quite easier than an Accord, the NAPA Max Drive ones seem to bethe most popular here, you can find the seals on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/351436756619?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT, then do the suspension "as needed" when you feel like it. Mine looked about as bad on the under side as yours, but it drives fine, I pressure washed it underneath got a lot of the rust & crud knocked off. No vehicicle looks good on the under side at the age & milage of our trucks.I think you got a pretty decent buy on your truck. Just get ready for your education, it's fun. I would recomend changing those axle seals while you already have the shafts out.

 

I knew some of the basics going in. And I knew at my price point there was likely going to be some maintenance. But it was sort of a hurried decision as I had already missed out on two other trucks. I'm still happy with my decision so far.

 

I pulled those prices off of rockauto.com

 

I based my costs on what I paid in new parts

Then I also did Wheel bearings Rotors Calipers and Pads

Compared to buying a Toyota Solid Axle Truck or 4 runner and rebuilding that

Then splice in the whole frame front end complete

Some place mid cab

If course one would in fact want to have a solid axle .

Then I would need no more then stock height which is already hard enough to get into.