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Long Travel BS Thread

Discussion in 'Long Travel Suspension' started by amaes, Aug 20, 2010.

  1. Sep 4, 2015 at 3:51 PM
    txmxer

    txmxer Well-Known Member

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    - Total Chaos 3.5 Long travel kit - Fox 2.5 coilovers w/ resis -Prerunner bumper -Fiberglass front fenders -Fiberwerx tt bedsides - Dmz Sua - fox 2.5x16 triple bypasses
    Well I wasnt planning on it but just got a deal on some brand new swayaway 8 inch coilovers, the fox on my truck are pretty dirty and need a rebuild/revalve pretty bad. Im trying to decide if im going to run the swayaways for good or just temporarily.

    Either way anyone know who to ask for some valving advice? I want to run a flutter stack for little bumps/washboard roads too. Looking for something more than the standard 10/12 recommendation to try out and go from there with the tuning
     
  2. Sep 4, 2015 at 4:13 PM
    TC yota

    TC yota Well-Known Member

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    Personally I'd start with 15/10 or 15/12 with flutter if you want. Or you can replace the largest diameter 15 on comp with a 10 to soften it up a bit. Also have at least 2 bleed screws in on the piston
     
    DMCtacoma likes this.
  3. Sep 4, 2015 at 4:25 PM
    txmxer

    txmxer Well-Known Member

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    Thanks im positive anything will be better than what I have now, I'll probably try 15/12 with a flutter stack just need to do some research on the flutter stack and where to place it.
     
  4. Sep 4, 2015 at 4:33 PM
    FlapJack935

    FlapJack935 i member

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  5. Sep 4, 2015 at 5:32 PM
    XPOTRON

    XPOTRON Is LIVE on the GRID.

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    Thanks buddy so they basically mount forward of the axle?
     
  6. Sep 4, 2015 at 5:44 PM
    SilverGhost

    SilverGhost Well-Known Member

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    I'll keep it short, i need advice. 2.7 had a lot of blowback yesterday when i got home. now i think the engine is seized. I took off part of my exhaust to believe to see oil. So can it be oil and if it's not turing over is it seized?

    Edit. So I put the tranny in N and tried turning the crank. Nothing not even an inch. So I guess its 3.4L shopping and LT build on hold until it's up and running. Now Im going to have to do some homework on a swap.
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2015
  7. Sep 4, 2015 at 6:42 PM
    DMCtacoma

    DMCtacoma Well-Known Member

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    I agree with tcyota. Do the 15/12 2 bleeds closed and a smallest diameter 8 between the biggest and second biggest shim.
     
  8. Sep 4, 2015 at 7:03 PM
    txmxer

    txmxer Well-Known Member

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    Ok Ill try that, I wish I would have the shims right now to work on the truck over the weekend. I dont have much experience with revalving so just to clarify. On the 15 stack I would grab one of the small diameter 8s and instead of placing it at the end of the stack put it between the biggest and second biggest shim? Should I do that for the 12 stack also?
     
  9. Sep 4, 2015 at 7:26 PM
    rzimm001

    rzimm001 Tearmytaco

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    Real men run one bleed open : P haha
     
  10. Sep 4, 2015 at 7:44 PM
    doyouquaxu

    doyouquaxu Well-Known Member

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    I was gonna make a Meet the Fockers reference, but saying "can you dual rate me" sounds... sexual
     
  11. Sep 4, 2015 at 7:49 PM
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    Anyone looking for saw 2.5x8 triple bypasses ? image.jpg
     
  12. Sep 4, 2015 at 8:51 PM
    CDSurfPhotography

    CDSurfPhotography Well-Known Member

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    how much are you asking?
     
  13. Sep 4, 2015 at 9:05 PM
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    Sent you a pm
     
  14. Sep 4, 2015 at 9:46 PM
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    I wouldn't say no benefit with a Tacoma, but no benefit of dual rate with an 8" coilover. You'd have to run a 4" tender and a 14" long main. Since 4" springs only come in a few spring rates for 2.5 shook body, (250-500 IIRC), the tender will be completely compressed or almost completely compressed at ride height leaving you wil a short main spring to do the rest of the business.
     
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  15. Sep 5, 2015 at 3:50 PM
    Mxpatriot

    Mxpatriot Well-Known Member

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    Cross posting this for greater exposure:

    I am attempting to press out the hub from my front wheel bearing. I have a HF 20 ton press. I am at a loss for how to get this done without a custom jig. There's no way to support the bearing (very thin lip / areas to support by) while keeping the whole assembly high enough for the hub to have room to be pressed out.

    Any tips, before I return the bearing and order a fully assembly from Bama here on the forums?
     
  16. Sep 5, 2015 at 4:29 PM
    TC yota

    TC yota Well-Known Member

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    Yes, and no you don't need to flutter the 12 stack(rebound)
     
    txmxer[QUOTED] likes this.
  17. Sep 5, 2015 at 6:09 PM
    txmxer

    txmxer Well-Known Member

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    Thank You! Appreciate the help
     
    TC yota[QUOTED] likes this.
  18. Sep 5, 2015 at 7:02 PM
    TC yota

    TC yota Well-Known Member

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    When I had a single c/o up front I ran a double stack 20 on comp and .008 on rebound, but I like to sky wheelie!
     
  19. Sep 5, 2015 at 9:09 PM
    06HAOLE

    06HAOLE Well-Known Member

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    I did this for four sets of hubs on my old 2nd Gen. Our shop press had multiple steel plates that I stacked together to make a jig. I may have had the plates shoot out once or twice when they weren't lined up right and fly across the shop. Looking back, I ruined one bearing due to operator error (Me) and it would have been cheaper in the long run to just take the loose parts to a machine shop for the press work.
     
  20. Sep 5, 2015 at 10:45 PM
    doyouquaxu

    doyouquaxu Well-Known Member

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    Anyone looking for:

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    Gonna be available starting mid-end October or the following few months. Pics and condition upon request
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2015

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