Rear Sway Bar

I understand what d4spdbh is saying. Understeer is is when the front tires lose traction before the rears and "push" into a corner. Oversteer is when the rear tires lose traction first and "drift" out. Or for most drivers, understeer is when you hit the tree with the front, oversteer is when you hit it with the back.

I'm not saying the sway didn't do exactly what you wanted jbrnigan. Just that the terms being used are being taken differently than you intended.

This is actually interesting because I removed my front sway bar for the ride improvement. With a heavy load, the truck does have more body roll (duh) but not enough to put the front back on. A rear bar however may not sacrifice ride but still return the lost stability.

Anyone used one of these in conjunction with no front bar?

 

If I understand you question - the installed sway bar needs to be parallel to the ground with the links installed (frame to bar). I believe that by rotating the axel mounting brackets upwards, you can make the bar parallel and compensate for your AAL. I eyeballed my installation and compensation for 1.5" is probably the limit you could achieve by rotating the mounting brackets around the axel, and not significantly change the design geometry. Just an opinion.

 

HEY! All you guys looking for a '74 T-bird rear sway bar can quit now.
When I cleaned off the old paint, what I thought said "FOMOCO" actually said "FABCO-made in Canada".
So this was an aftermarket bar, or a Canadian Thunderbird, or something strange.

All I know for sure is that it worked on the T-bird, and it worked on my '47 Plymouth, and it works on the Tacoma too.

That being said, it's not the ultimate sway control on my LBDC. It has a moderate effect, but a welcome one which I noticed immediately. The truck wanders less on the highway and squats less in a corner. When you push it hard, it breaks the rear free and slides instead of bottoming the outside rear spring and peeling out just the inside rear tire.

I did not buy the Helwig, because I didn't like the price or the backwards design, but in the end I put mine backwards too. I couldn't clear the gas tank or the springs when it pointed forward. As it was I didn't have to mod the truck itself. I had to mod the Fabco axle clamps a little to make them tighter, as the Taco tube is slightly smaller in dia. I also cut off some unnecessary studs.

The sway bar is typical '70s passenger car fare. Bushing clamps and axle clamps all came from the T-bird.


The clamp is a two-piece affair with a keyhole latch. this makes it a snap to install.


I cut off two unneeded studs from the Fabco clamps.


I made two end links up from scratch. I bought a typical polyurethane end link kit and used its bushings, washers, and nuts. I also bought a 3' long x 1/2" dia tube and a 3' long 3/8"-NC all thread, and made these longer bent end links. I cut the stuff to length, stuck the rod in the tube, heated it with a torch and bent it about 87 degrees. Bottom bushing is the stocker, and pretty hard after some 40 years. Needs upgrading eventually. Tops are the new poly bushings.


They go up through the crossmember. There were convenient "lightening" holes right there.



There's not much clearance to the springs. Under 1/2" at the closest spot, after I shaved off all the excess threads. I may make some "headless" links to increase the clearance.



You see above where the new end link goes up through some 25mm holes in the spare tire crossmember? Well the left one is a hole and the right one is a short slot.
I will need to put some fender washers each side of that slot to bridge it, then shim the opposite side the same thickness, so the bar is "relaxed" when the truck is level.

There's not much clearance from the top of the end links to the underside of the bed, but there is enough if you don't make the link too long.

 

This was the bar as mounted on my '47 Plymouth Club Coupe:

 

Nice job and creative fab work! (PS - be careful about referencing any spirited driving on public highways on this site - LOL)

 

Hah!
I bought this truck because it was so appropriate to spirited driving.
I woulda bought the blower model, if I knew it existed at the time.

Spirited driving did not start with the Taco either.
Many times I've performed the "slide-for-life" maneuver in that old P15.
That sway bar was crucial in not rolling it over, cause it was tall!



Same issue with Tacos. Very Tall.

Anyhow, at my age (60) I know where to let 'er rip, and where not to.
I got kids and grandkids too ya know.


Those are just the grandkids.

 

Guys I actually meant to post all this in another thread, so it's now double-posted. Sorry...

Anyhow, If you look there you'll see better photos of the Fabco bar too.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/good-universal-anti-sway-bar.389040/#post-10713196

 

The sway bar install was a success, with a nice improvement in handling. Corners flat on curves now. It doesn't make the truck a sports car, but gives the steering a more positive feel on the highway. After dropping the spare, installation was a breeze. I used a standard drill for the holes in the frame. Plenty of room to work. I did not have to raise vehicle.


Now, if the truck didn't have so many interior rattles,pops,snaps, etc (doors, door panels, dash, radio, weather stripping, passenger seat, AC ducts, seat belt mechanisms, head liner, wind noise), it would be a pleasure to drive. As soon as you think you have one rattle fixed, more show up. If purchasing one of these 2015 trucks, one needs to be semi deaf or have a glass pack muffler installed to drown out the interior noise. Very disappointed with interior workman ship of this Tacoma!