No Start! Engine is getting spark and fuel, fried ECU?

nice work. My IACV also tested out well on the meter and opened and closed when I gave it 12v, but it ended up being bad anyway. Sometimes parts pass most or all of the tests and still don't work quite right. Glad you got it fixed!

 

Good to hear!

 

Car isn't starting again....

Just had enough juice to get home from the market tonight. Battery warning light was going on and off intermittently last week, now its on constantly. Fix one thing and two more things break.

Looks like i blew out the alternator, im about to order a new one. Is there a larger model that can be used then the stock 80amp? The stock Denso was $148, so I ordered this TYC aftermarket one for $98 from Amazon:

$112 TYC Alternator Compatible with 2000-2004 Toyota Tacoma

http://amzn.com/B002VF5Y9E


Also for reference, there were M5x20mm bolts with split lock washers i used to install the new IAC, as well as screw head covers to plug the now unused coolant lines:



I needed to use channel locks to remove the old philips screws after they easily stripped out:

 

Most likely they are JIS screws and using a Phillips screwdriver on them is more likely to strip them. Toyota forums are filled with people complaining about stripping various screws on their cars.

See this article for more info:
http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/300

 

Replaced alternator today. I wanted to note that after having the capacitor replaced on the ECU, as well as cleaning off the connectors for the ECU, o2 sensors, and body harness plug under the drivers seat cured my P0420 code form coming up as well as the dancing fuel gauge.

Many of these plugs (except the ECU) had what looked like white lithium grease in them. Why and what they were thinking i don't know. I used DeOxit D5 contact cleaner on all the connectors. Its pricy but its good stuff.

$17 Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz.

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-De...ie=UTF8&qid=1442373581&sr=1-1&keywords=deoxit

I think this may have been done from the factory, in replacing the original 15 year old alternator, i found the same white grease.

 

Dielectric grease perhaps??

 

That was my thought at first, but contrary to what the geniuses at Pepboys say, this grease is not meant to go on contacts, it goes around and over exposed contacts.

To find all this, it is either something weird from the factory, or there was someone very very stupid tearing up my car before i bought it. Also it looks like lithium grease, ive never seen white dielectric grease.

 

Huh well my driver side headlight connector had a butt load of caked crap, for whatever that's worth.

 

Hmm interesting. Ive read of electrolysis degrading differing metals, but plastics? I dunno, all i know is that it shouldn't be there.

 

What did you do with the coolant lines??

 

I removed the line going from the ICV to the round vacuum valve. Then I took the line coming from the block to ICV and put it to the vacuum valve. If i have the need to every remove the manifold, ill probably just remove that whole valve and the extra vacuum lines, as its purpose is to just regulate the coolant going through the ICV.

 

Whats the purpose of this??

 

Because I could.

 

Gee thanks fur spreadin the knowledge....

 

Like most mods on here, its not going to add 10hp, increase MPG, or get you more pussy. If anything, it makes for a cooler intake, and less clutter in the engine bay. If you were to measure the improvement, it would probably be 0.1hp.

If you live in a place that regularly gets freezing temperatures, then please dont do this. In theory, the wind chill from the moving cold air could freeze the valve and/or intake into a open position. Otherwise there is no downside. I did the same thing on my BMW M3 just to clean up some clutter. Its coolant valve is controled by a thermovalve in the airbox. Though it should be stated, the BMW M50/S50 engine is very prone to air pockets and overheating, so it makes far more sence on this engine than a Toyota 3RZ engine.

Nipples plugged



Thermovalve removed.


Distribution line returned to head.

 

Ah, i see. Thanks for the clarification! Im all for less clutter and what not in the engine bay! But i do live and especially work in a cold weather area so i suppose this mod isnt for me...