Rust Protection?

I'm wondering how this is applied without getting it all over my garage floor. I have not had a problem with panel rust, but frame, differential, and drive shafts I see lots of rust flakes.

Iowa salts all the time, sometimes before storms.

Seriously, wish I would have taken pictures. But today checked out a brand new 2016 tacoma and got a good look underneath. Saw little rust dust on drive shafts bolts and spots on rear axle welds. I hate that stuff. What can be done. I feel like calling speed McQueen to get some rusteze. Any one with kids should know about it.

 

Washing it regularly or just different driving habits. The sheet metal rust all washes down from the windows for the doors or in through the drain holes driving through puddles for rockers or spray from the tires into the fender liners or rear quarters. Inspect the lowest parts where the drain holes should be in these areas and you will see where the rust starts......around the welds at the lowest point.

 

It is easy to deal with. I just crawl underneath with coveralls on and paint any bolts or area I suspect with wheel bearing grease. Spray inside your frame areas with biodegradable motor oil. It takes abou 45 minutes top,,,do it once a year. Inspect your body panels. Spray motor oil in through drain holes and acces areas while under with a Garden sprayer. Wd40 does not last as long....months compared to an oil treatment which should last a year or two. I have lots of friends who do it and an equal number who don't....they actually wonder why their cars rust in 6 to 8 years. I smile and say " it was your choice to let them"
If you do it on your lawn, you can use biodegrade G-oil.....some people just throw news paper down and let collect there.

 

That's really expensive and washes away easily.....and smells....

 

Love Boeshield T9 aerosol it will be the first thing done to my new tacoma. Worked great on my FJ Frame...

 

Seems like it would make an excellent fram coating. It's builds up a wax base the more you spray on. I would not spray it into body panels into drain holds as it will clog them. Drain holes are never at the lowest areas it seems where they should be which is why rust will always occur at the lower welds. Only an oil base product that runs is safe there.

 

I have only used it for frame don't feel the need to treat inside panels in my climate but FYI wax aka "cavity wax" coatings are pretty common on the inside of panels from factory dips or other application it does not usually clog the drain holes but can seep in high heat.
T9 is a thin liquid until the carrier evaps and has the ability to flow just like oil until it dries and leaves such a thin coating buildup should never be an issue.

 

I read the literature on it. You can build up the thickness by overspraying . If you spray it inside, it will run down the panels and over coat as it collects on the bottom. It WILL CLOG DRAIN HOLES. The bottom line is, never use anything inside the panels that does not remain liquid. What the factory can do to panels before assembly is different then what you can do. The plastic fender liners for example can hold moisture in with dirt next to the fender after assembly. They don't before when dipped before assembly. Whether you do the panels correctly is no big deal to me, but just remember one thing, if your frame rusts, rust can occur inside those very flimsy panels too. It depends on how long you want a truck to hold it's value.....rust is something like cancer, people don't feel it will hurt them cause they can't see it.

 

Aok If you are treating the shell of a door for example you are removing the trim panel and moisture barrier and applying your choice of corrosion protection properly right? most petroleum based substances also have the bad habit of collecting and trapping dirt.
Just had 2 skins off a 13yr old 200k car and no rust inside but it does have bad rust on the drip rails which we see a lot of here. Region and climate dictate how you should treat your car.
For me i am more worried about the frame...salt air and mud trapping moisture if i don't get to it right away and T9 serves that purpose well.

 

Like you said earlier, it may not be a big deal for those who live out size the salt belt. I never remover the trim panel.
For me it doesn't help. . Inside rust starts at the bottom of the door. A garden spayer sprays oil base through to the inside through the drain hole for the doors, removing the kick panels for the rockers, open the engine hood for the front fenders and crawl under and work wand around fender liners and read bumper for truck. I then literally paint with a foam brush, suspect areas and with bearing red grease. Spray inside box areas with oil and areas you cannot easily paint. The key...do it every year. Paint traps moisture and anything like wax or oil should be yearly inspected. It rubs off.
Rust proofing high on doors is a waste of time.....doing it yourself is a 20 minute job.