96 5vz xcab 4x4 TACO TURBO BUILD

Hey arent these the same parts as the previous list?

 

Nope. An4 (1/4") hose and and fittings for the oil feed, an10 (5/8") hose and fittings for the oil drain... and with specific turbo flanges.

 

Yeah no doubt. That's why the rest of us went turbo too.
The AFRs are read by a single o2 sensor that comes with a wideband gauge. This plugs right into a bunghole (hehehe) that CX has conveniently welded into their downpipe.
You will need to source a Toyota weld-in bung to install the post-cat o2 sensor though.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Steel-O2-Sens...Engines-7M-2JZ-7MGTE-/251895564575?nav=SEARCH

 

Question. Now this may be pure ignorance but do i have to have a high pressure oil line into a GT35? If i do were could i intercept one? If i don't then do i just hook up two bungs one low to suck oil and one high to drain oil? Also Gio It looks like you only have one oil line to the turbo; am i seeing that correctly? Again Thanks.

Edit: Ok so i hav figured out that i need a HP oil line and a LP oil line (into the oil pan) But were did you guys intercept your high pressure line? my plan was to just buy a relocation kit and T off from the clean oil out side.

Lol ok so i figured out the whole oil thing....soooooo this whole comment is worthless XD

 

Sounds like me when I first started xD

 

Yeah, right!

 

Man we all went through that.

I remember when I didn't vent the breather tube to atmosphere I thought I blew out all my oil seals.

 

Lol noted. Where is the V6 oil breather?

 

A 0-60 test finally. Just a hair under 7 seconds (I get 6.8-6.9 seconds on my stopwatch)
https://youtu.be/Joz-ABquSe0

 

What rpm do you get full spool? Does your clutch hold in 4th gear boost?

 

Right before 3k.
Clutch holds in all gears

 

Do you think I'll have any long term consequences from that hesitation/buck I'm getting. It happens pretty frequently and the afr will go from 15, 16 and drop a few points when it does. I think the ecu just gets pissed. It doesn't really bother me, just annoying. If I fluctuate the gas it doesn't do it. Only happens during regular city driving. ?????

 

I had that same problem when I had my supra MAF and 320cc injectors installed, but it only occurred until the truck warmed up completely. It went away completely when I cleaned my MAF really good and replaced my O2 sensors (I'm leaning toward the latter with you). I didn't have any O2 codes either. I wasn't passing emissions so I dumped a gallon of denatured alcohol in my tank and replaced my O2's... never had that problem again.

 

What are you running, ecu, injectors, fuel pump, with 5 psi?

 

Literally everything stock besides the 250 walbro pump and the turbo, but you can get away with using the stock pump for 5 psi

 

Sweet thanks. What are you afrs like running that?

And did you need colder plugs?

 

I ran colder plugs for a while but they didn't last worth a darn. When you hook your fuel pressure regulator vacuum line to the manifold or charge pipes and allow it to see boost pressure, the boost pushes against the diaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator, effectively raising the fuel pressure according to what psi you are running. 6 psi is the max you would ever want to run on your stock injectors, but that little trick with the FPR vacuum hose allows you to get 11-12 AFR under open loop boost @ 4-6 psi. In a way it sucks though, because part-throttle closed loop boost has the tendency to run a little lean (13-15 AFR), so you need to constantly govern the throttle to keep it out of boost as much as possible until you decide to put the pedal to the floor and punch it. Proper tuning gets rid of that hassle.

 

OK I'll just stick with stock unless colder becomes needed. And I guess I will just have to keep a constant eye on my afr guage.

 

Yeah it's definitely not something you can't get used to.

 

I wish I had a turbo /: