Old Man Emu: Questions, Answers & Pictures

This does help. If those are Duratracs, they're the same ones I have. Thank you.

 

I didn't think of do skids or bumper any time soon either. Got my lift on and less than a month later saw a group buy on skids. Now I have skids....

Guess I should have gone 886. LoL Cause more I want a bumper and winch some day.

 

I might just go 886's for this very reason!

 

They are the kevlars. Pretty close.

I knew this one going to happen to me so I held out and did everything pretty close together. Group buys around here are the worst lol.

Haha worst comes to worst go with the 886's and its just an excuse to get armour of the ride height or ride isn't good enough.

 

Having trouble finding information on the valving of a certain shock. Does anyone know the valving of the nitro sports for 1st gen(#60062)?

 

I believe the nitro sports have a 10 disc compression valve stack and a 10 disc rebound valve stack.

 

I suppose I still have a lot to learn. Going off of a thread that details shock "valve ratings" the numbers for Bilstein shocks are reported as a force in Newtons at some constant of velocity (ex: 275/78). Is this a standard measurement convention for shocks and if so would you happen to know the valve rating of the 60062's? I'm sorry if this question isn't worded properly, I am pretty new to shock tech and thank you for the response.

 

Oh, the 60062's do not have a standard measurement rate as they act as the dampers for the leaf springs that (for the 1st gen) have a rate of 20/34 N/mm (without the AAL). ARB does state that the 60062's will handle load increases of up to 500 lbs. They are considered to be on the "softer side" of available shocks for the 1st gen, the other option being the 60065's that offer a "stiffer" ride and, according to ARB, are able to handle load increases of up to 1000 lbs. Also, if you need the open/closed lengths of the 60062's they are 587mm/357mm.

 

Still waiting on U bolts and UCA to come, but I threw the sway bar relocate kit on to save a little time on install day.

This is probably a stupid question, but it there any reason NOT to put the carrier bearing drop in before the lift?

 

I see. That is very helpful, thank you! When you say stiff and soft are you referring to the weight load being carried, or the type of terrain that is being crossed, or are they sort of the same thing?

My situation is I've just upgraded my front end and now all I can feel is my stock rear bouncing around. The OME dakars seem to be very reputable so I'm leaning that way and I'd like to pair them with the 60062's which seem to be designed as a packaged deal. I tend to run things a bit on the rough side though. Do you think the 60062 would mate well with the dakars for higher speed off roading or should I bump up to the next size? Oh, and all of my wheeling is unloaded.

 

I'm referring to the load in the bed, so as you wheel with no load then I would pair the 60062's with the Dakars for the best ride.

 

You may get vibes if you put the carrier bearing spacer on since your changing the driveline angle. With the lift the spacer returns it back to stock. If it's only for a while it won't hurt anything. Anything I can't see it being that drastic for a little bit of driving you know. P

 

OK, thanks. That's what I was wondering. I'll just hold off then. It looks like it's only about a 10 minute job anyway.

 

Yeah shouldn't be too bad.

 

Looks great!

It's hard to tell with the shadows. Is the truck sitting level, nose up, or nose down?

 

Alright guys, one more question.

I've decided to just go ahead and return the 887's and go with 886's.

Are there any problems or negative side effects of running a 3/8" top plate spacer with the 886's to get that 1/2 inch difference between the 887's and 886's back?

 

Thanks for the input. This will probably be my route!

 

I took my truck to the dealership to have them diagnose what caused the ABS and Traction Control lights to come on after my lift install and they narrowed it down to the front passenger ABS wire being stretched near the UCA. They got the ABS light to turn off but the Traction Control light is still on. The service guy I talked to was asking if I had messed with anything in the rear diff...other than the brake lines and installing the AAL's, I didn't really mess with anything that would cause the light to come on..at least that I can think of...Anyone have this problem before or know what might cause this? Thanks!

 

I would put the 886's in without spacers and see where you end up , you can always add 1/4" top plate spacers later with the factory length top hat studs if you need more height

 

In the same boat as you. I order some space LR UCA's and I have adjustable Billy's so I am gonna get rid of the Rake..