Replacement Engines Sourced From Japan

Yeah, just what I'd heard from a mechanic friend I knew who's a long time Toyota guy and a few others, but I agree, it's likely a crapshoot here getting a donor from a wreck with how someone maintained their vehicle. I got really lucky with a purchase in the states, replacing my R150 transmission that had a burned up bearing with one with 130,000 miles from a guy on TTORA that's lasted another 140,000 miles since and I paid $300 shipped, so I think for the trouble of how many said engines were different parts wise from Japan to here I'd go with one from the states, but just a matter of opinion

 

Forced economic stimulus is one reason. Emissions is kinda one, but more in the sense of prodding public transportation rather than private ownership.

You can actually keep a vehicle longer than that, but it must pass more intense testing (not hard to do) and the owner must pay some hefty 'fees' in subsequent years. So 'disincentive' if you would.

 

Dave:

Could you provide some details on your swap?

1) What parts did you remove from engine before removal?

2) Did you pull the transmission?

3) What did you use as anchor points the hoist chain?

4) How long did it take you to pull the motor? How long did the installation take?

5) Do you have any tips or tricks you learned during removal or reinstall that you can share?

Thanks in advance for any info you can provide.

Mike

 

Valve covers and upper intake(plenum) were already removed to evaluate the extent of damage. I pulled the fan assembly, radiator & shroud before engine was removed. I left the AC system sealed and simply unbolted the ac compressor from the engine and secured it in the engine bay. I pulled & installed both engines with the hood still on the vehicle. I did not remove the trans. I have a short cable with steel plates on each end with bolt holes that i use to R&R engines. Sorry but i can't exactly remember where i bolted the lifting cable to the engine. I pulled and installed both engines with the ex. manifolds bolted to the engine. I pulled and installed both engines by myself at work in the evenings. I do recommend having a extra set of hands & eyes, makes the job a lot easier. I'm lucky enough to have use of a fully equipped shop with lifts after hours so this helped make the job a lot easier for me even tho i was solo. I'm a professional auto tech so i have about $30k in tools but only basic tools were really needed for this swap. Do you have a torque wrench? If not buy or borrow one. It's funny how i help my friends with their vehicles but when i asked for help everybody was busy. Hard to answer question #4 because i worked on it after work a little each night, i wasn't in a big rush. But it is a easy swap if you take your time and pay attention to what you take apart. Some people take before pics and label the removed bolts/nuts in zip lock baggies so re-assembly is more organized. I replaced all the mantaince items while the replacement engine was on the engine stand. As to question #5 don't be scared of a job like this. To put it simple, it only comes apart one way and it only goes back together one way. Any more questions just ask.

 

Kinda like when moving huh......

 

Yep!

 

Dave:

Thanks for the additional info and pics. I have a couple of torque wrenches neither of which are quality. I've had a Snap On one in my Amazon wish list for A few months now seems like a good time to pull the trigger on that that purchase. Looking at your pictures I thing I found an open bolt hold just above the exhaust manifold back by the firewall on drivers side and diagonal up front just above the exhaust manifold to attach the hoist strap.

Did you do or consider exhaust manifold gaskets? Will definitely take you up on the offer if I have any questions along the way.

Mike

 

I never unbolted the exhaust manifolds on either engine so no i didn't replace them. I did do the upper intake gaskets, oil pan gasket sealant from Toyota(it comes in a tube, no actual gasket), valve cover gaskets. I also purchased new oil cooler hoses from Toyota and replaced them also while the engine was on the stand. I replaced rad. hoses & all belts, wp, Tstat, new Aisin clutch kit, ect... I also applied dielectric grease to all my wiring connectors while it was apart. I got it up & running about a week before i had to drive it to Texas to pick up my new camper. I put almost 3300 miles on it during that 9 day road trip and not one single issue. It didn't burn or leak a drop of oil, no engine light, nothing! Gotta love Toyota's!

 

Hi Dave:



I’m about 70% done with pulling the engine. I have a few questions I was hoping you could provide guidance on:



1) Where did you disconnect the wiring harness that come through the right side of firewall. See attached pic. Did you pull from within the cab?

2) How difficult did you find removal of bell housing bolts? I got a couple out, but access to a few others is difficult, especially the one at the 12 o’clock position just under the exhaust crossover.

3) Do you think your removal of the intake before engine removal made overall removal easier? I’m thinking the bell housing bolt mentioned above may be easier and the hoist chain I have is 34” just a few too short to span the intake.

4) How about the exhaust bolts. Where you able to remove without a torch? They’ve been soaking in penetrating oil of about 24 hours now.



Thanks,



Mike

 

Mike I left the wiring harness connected to the truck, just unplugged the wire connectors at the engine. I did my swap in the evenings at work on a lift so i used a long extension and a swivel socket from underneath to remove the bellhousing bolts. Performing this job on a lift was a BIG advantage! No, the upper intake really wasn't in the way, i removed it previously so i could remove the one side valve cover so i could do a visual inspection of the valve train damage. But if it makes it easier for you remove the upper intake, it's easy enough to remove. I left the ex manifolds and crossover pipe attached to the engine during removal & installation. I unbolted the exhaust from underneath (see engine bay pic, pipe at the top left corner), no torch needed just PB Blaster. Surprisingly for a east coast 4x4 my undercarriage is clean so rusted bolts really wasn't a issue, but like you i pre-soaked everything before i started disassembly.

 

Mike sorry for the late reply, i just returned from a week of camping. No internet.

 

Instead of buying the snap on branded torque wrench but it from oneof snap on industrial brands cdi us their torque wrench line same tool less monies

 

Dave:

No worries on the late response, hope you had a good trip. I wrapped up pulling the motor this morning. I did end up pulling off the intake plenum. Those flywheel bolts where terrible. Should be a lot of fun on installation. Yeah I wish I had a lift that would have made it a lot easier. I did the same as you and left the wiring harness in the engine bay. I'm wondering if installation may be easier if I pull the wiring harness from the ECU and pull the harness through the firewall. I am just thinking rewiring the engine may me a lot easier on while on the stand. Your thoughts on that? I'm really still on the fence on sourcing an engine. I've been looking nationwide on Craigslist, eBay and at salvage yards. Finding a domestic engine with relatively low miles is not easy. Still on the fence on whether to go JDM or continue to look for a domestic low mileage engine. Finding anything domestic with less than 150K is not easy. Is a JDM with claimed 65K (which I am sure is closer to 90K in reality), better than a domestic with 150K? Either one could have been abused or had poor maintenance.

Thanks,

Mike

 

Yeah, I said Snap On but really was looking at this one:

$186 CDI 2503MFRPH Comfort Grip Dual Scale Micrometer Adjustable Click Style Torque Wrench - 1/2" Drive - 30 to 250 ft. lb. Torque Range

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...liid=I3U5PR44KAU6HY&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

Do you have one of these? If so, how is it? A big project always justifies the purchase of a few tools.

 

Looks legit

 

Mike in my one pic you can see i used a bungee cord to hold the wiring harness out of the way (i did my swap solo so no extra set of hands or eyes). After the replacement engine was bolted in i removed the bungee and the great thing about wiring is it has memory, all the connectors kinda fell back in place back to where they were originally removed. Plugged everything back in and i was good to go. I never saw a reason to pull a harness with a engine but that's just me. It took me a while to find a domestic low mile replacement also, but don't be scared of mileage with these engines just look for signs that its been maintained. ABC Auto Wrecking Used Auto Parts in Tuscon, AZ. is the salvage yard where i purchased my 3.4. I dealt with a guy named Dustin, he mentioned to give him a call if i need any tacoma parts because he said he always has a couple in inventory. Maybe google it for the # and give him a call, they treated me good. I paid $1400 for a complete 69k mile motor and that price included shipping it to me here in Baltimore. About 2 weeks after installation i drove my taco on a 3,300 mile road trip towing a camper with no issues, didn't even burn a drop of oil the whole trip. I was so happy I had my wife leave them a good review on google for me.

 

I don't recommend anyone buying from Ebay because many lie they sell Japanese engines. Plus ebay is not going to help 2 months down the road.

 

I buy engines from Engine World Inc in Houston. They have a very detailed website. Here is the link : https://japaneseusedengines.net/

I mostly buy re-manufactured Toyota Tacoma 3RZ & 1GR engines from them for my repair shop.

 

Thanks for the link Jimmy. I recently purchased a 1 owner 96 4runner with a seized 3.4 so i'm looking for another good used engine. I did find a 116k mile 3.4 at the same Arizona salvage yard where i purchased my tacoma engine but they sold it quickly to a local buyer, so the hunt continues. Everything else i'm finding has crazy miles. I can't wait to start wrenching on this project! I got all the original paperwork with this one, look at that sticker price, and that was 20 years ago!

 

OP did you get your truck together and back on the road?