Transfer actuator

Ok I dont think this is set correctly, my suggestion is to look at FSM set your fork into 2wd position than using 9 volt battery or something similar set actuator to 2wd if its not set already. Its should match, if its not usually means actuator is set to something else than what your transfer case is.

 

This is what I'm planning to do just to make sure it was in 2H. If you think it would not damage anything.
Im going to take the small triangle plate off.
Take the gear out that turns the shaft.
Make sure the t-case is in 2H
Turn the truck on and turn the actuator to 2H
Then try putting the gear back in.
I think its in 2h when the rod is pushed all the way in if I remember correctly.

The FSM whole relay thing is to verify the actuator is working. I know it was working before swapping to my truck.

 

What ever I did it worked.

 

Most likely you got transfer case and actuator in sync. All this thing does is turns the gear to specific position from whatever position computer thinks is right now. That puts the tension through the spring, when fork finally moves that tells computer that it suceeded.
Most of the problems stem from fork and actuator being in different spots.
In Transfer case baseline position is 2H
Whats interesting if you ever remove e-locker the base position there is locked.
Still glad it worked out.

 

I think what happened was when my buddy was taking it off he was yanking and probably put it on when it was in 4h or 4l. After he swapped it would not shift at all until I put it back together with it in 4H. And by then timing was all jacked up.

 

Hey Help !!
I took the Black cover off of my Actuator and the White Gear with the finger contacts fell out and now I don't know the proper orientation to pot it back in, I tried but now the actuator will only take it out od 4WD ?? it will not reverse to put it back into 4 WD ?? any help !

 

After reading this thread I'm thinking I have the actuator pinion gear in the wrong position and the position indicator is trying to move it further than necessary into L4 and it doesn't have the correct position indicated to move it back to the correct position.

 

You can check continuity to see if you have it timed right. Step 7 and 8 pertain to you- http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old.../06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/034000.pdf

 

HA!!! Got it guys! Took the actuator motor housing off (the black plastic part), pulled the pinion gear out moved it back two teeth and reinstalled the housing. BAM! Goes into 4hi then back to 2H then to 4H and then to 4L and back to 2H or 4H just like the boys in Japan meant for it to do.

 

So im not quite sure if ive got the same issue that everyone else has been having. ive been reading a few threads on here and havent quite figured it out yet.

My issue is i cannot get into 4l. when i shift into 4hi my tcase and front diff both actuate but my 4hi light on the dash blinks and we all know you cant get into 4lo when the light blinks. Any attempt to switch to 4lo (of course while in neutral) just gives me the beeping. The only way for me to get out of 4hi is to set the switch to 2hi, turn off the truck, turn it back on, get into drive and im back into 2hi with the light off. Ive recently pulled the tcase actuator housing off (black cover) and cleaned all the terminals and the result is the same except; its been a while since i tried 4lo, tried to get in and i still have a flashing 4hi but when i try to go 4lo in neutral, it no longer beeps at me (and wont engage either)

Maybe i need to clean up the contacts a little better, i just removed some grease and put it back on. Im wondering now if my problem is in the switch itself. Just lookin for a more solid direction before i go back out there. Im not much of a mechanic but i do have friends willing to help (after i research)

 

Have you try reseting 4wd computer by pulling 4wd fuse ?
Did you check position switch(es) in Transfer case ?

 

Just pulled the fuse and didnt help. im wondering what sequence i should pull it though? truck on? pull it? truck off reinstall? can i do it all when the truck is off and itll just disconnect power?

Position switches in tcase, i dont quite understand. ive cleaned all the contacts in there. all 3 wiring plugs look nice and clean. not really sure about the position unless you mean i should engage 4hi and then pull the actuator cover off and see where they line up?

 

just pulled apart my dash to get to the 4wd selector switch. cleaned up the contacts on that and im still getting the blinking but also getting beeping again when trying to get into 4lo... now i did take apart my tcase actuator cover a second time before this and reinstalled. that could have caused it as well.

 

Ok its possible that when you removed actuator cover thats when you moved things. So lets start with basics to put that back.

Look at the picture below two position switch are numbered PNC84222 and PNC84222B
So if your 4wd switch is in 2wd, check to make sure both of them are indicating 2wd. Also check if front ADD is in unlocked position.
Thats a good start. I would remove position switches from transfer case and check each just in case.
Hope that helps

 

So I pulled my cover off. The gear came out with it. I think I may have moved the gear the wrong way while re-installing. How do I ensure all lines up?

 

A couple years later and I just had another look yesterday. It seems my electric motor went bad inside the actuator. More specifically the magnets came unglued, therefore the motor wont turn. I tried gluing them back on but no luck. So, does anyone have a bad t case actuator they would sell? I really only need half of it. The black cover w the motor inside......

 

Back to still no luck... elec motor now turns under direct power. I see no possible way to time the gear inside the cover. This is why toyota says it is a non servicable part. Once you pull the gear out of the actuator housing , putting it back in in the correct position with the "fingers" in the correct location is a crap shoot. I still cant believe that with a known issue and 50 zillion trucks out there that there isnt an aftermarket or DIY repair for it.

 

FJ manual T-case swap is the only one I know of. http://www.rocksolidtoys.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60 Which reminds me, I bet Wyatt has a spare actuator or ten.

That said, it is possible to time it. I have successfully done it several times. I don't think I have ever even had to do a redo, just look at the physical position of the shift shaft (2HI or whatever) and slide the cog into the case in an electrically similar position (also 2Hi for our example). I could see it being frustrating if you randomly crammed stuff together. All of the links you need to understand the electronic part of it is in this thread.

 

How do you determine the "electrically similar position" ? The T case is in 2H , so what position on the clock should the fingers be in when I put the cover back on? There is nothing that I can find in any thread that tells how to do this. Seems to be a trial and error sort of thing. Put in position, put the cover on, try it, then do it all over again.