New Tacoma/Tundra factory LED bed light kit?

sub'd

 

On my truck, the lights do not stay on with just the dome light on. They operate as if the door has opened and closed. I also tried sitting in the truck and after the dome light went out I operated the dome light and they do not turn on independently. I'm sure there is an a way to wire a switch into the cab, or bed, to operate the lights but that is a little above my ability. Hope this helps.

 

I hope some one here can help me. I am going to buy this light kit and would like to hook it up to a OEM light switch. Has anyone here done that? Could you be so kind to share a detail of how to do? I would like to turn them on and off by the switch, they can however still work by door trigger as well but that is not necessary. I am not very DIY capable with out pictures and write ups. The directions for the light kit seem fairly easy. Thanks

 

Stand by Raven! Doing it tomorrow morning, I'll postart pix and wiring diagram.

I have the Off road Arsenal LED switch.

 

That should help me Thanks

 

OK Raven, it's done, and I have made you a diagram.

I don't need to rehash the directions that came with the bed light kit since they are decent. The hardest part for me was using the 7/16" drill to make the big holes in the bed (ouch!).

I am assuming you are getting the Offroad Arsenal bed light switch. It is pretty nice, as you can see in the thumbnail above. I wired mine so that the bed lights come on when the button is pushed. I didn't like the directions to run them from the dome light. I'll take the chance on accidentally leaving them on and draining the battery.

The diagram that came with the switch sucks. The switch comes with a pigtail with four wires coming out of it and I have numbered them starting with black: 1) Black; 2) Red/Yellow; 3) Red/Yellow; and 4) Green/Yellow. The first order of business is to get a couple of "ATM" fuse taps from your local auto parts store. Note: You'll need new fuse(s) to replace the ones in your fuse block since the ones that go in the tap are "ATO" blade fuses and not "ATM" like our trucks have. Solder the fuse taps to Wire 2 (red/yellow) and Wire 4 (green/yellow). Your harness should look like this:



I am assuming you have already taken your kick panel/fuse panel cover off (if you are mounting the switch where I did, if not, the wiring diagram still applies, it just will be longer if you chose the center console). Here's how to wire the plug:


You can wire both ground wires to a bolt behind the drivers side kick panel. It's pretty obvious and it's a good ground. I'm not sure what "Fuse 4" is on 4x4 models (mine is blank), but it's a good +12v source that is tied to the headlight switch. You'll use that with Wire 2 to light up the switch at night - it's a white LED BTW. Note that the power source isn't hooked up to a dimmer though, so your light switch will be on constantly as long as the headlights are on.

If you have added the fuse taps like I showed you the wiring then becomes very simple. I hope this helps! Let me know if any questions.

 

Damn bud!!! That is an awesome write up!! I have ordered my stuff and should have the lights this week. The switch which I ordered the FJ Oem Aux switch should be next week. If I can not figure that out I will return and order the same one you have. So there is no need for a relay? What was your issue drilling the hole in the bed? Thanks again for the great write up and I am sure I may have some questions when I get to this!!!

 

Hi Raven:

No need for a relay, the current draw from the bed light LEDs is pretty small.

My issue with drilling the hole:


"What if I drill this big hole in the wrong place?!?"

Just kidding, use the diagram and you'll be fine.


Oh, and a word about the diagram: When printing it out from Adobe Acrobat be sure to select "100%" size rather than "fit to page" or you'll get a diagram that's too small and your holes will be off. Another member mentioned that somewhere and it's a MUST! I printed out the "fit to page" version by accident, and a side-by-side comparison shows that you'll have a problem (a lot of extra holes) if you print out the wrong size.

Good luck with your install!

 

LOL on drilling the hole!! Thats me thinking that way every time a go to touch something! Thank you so much again.

 

Here's a link where parts/shipping are $5 cheaper than the link on pg 1. $55 + $10 shipped is cheapest on ebay I see................

 

This is where I got mine! Kurt is the parts manager for Daytona Toyota, he's a stand up guy. Best price I could find anywhere, fast shipping, showed up in great shape. I do recommend him.

 

TRD Sparks and Lexus of Miami had them for 65.00 shipped and that was the best I found.

 

Yeah I got the guy at Daytona to hook us up with a little deal. Now he sells them for 80.00

 

just use a ruler and see if the printed 1 inch mark is actually one inch long

the hardest part of the entire installation was how to stuff the extra miles
of wire into my frame...and even that was covered in the guide

-enough wire, check
-enough tie wraps, check
-proper taps and clips, check
-extra tap for tundra I won't need, check
-proper template, check
-exact pictures and diagrams and no missing steps, check
-does it light up the bed check

I mean no one has made a better DIY kit than these southeastern toyota folks
they covered every bit of this

 

Has anyone wired it to the constant power from the trailer wiring and installed a switch in the bed?

 

I plan on doing just that, if the kit gets here tomorrow like FedEx says it will. I like the idea of the trailer harness for power because it only works when the ignition is on.

 

I'd love to see your write up on that. That's why I thought it may be a good idea, but I'm not that handy when it comes to electrical stuff on trucks.

 

Well I installed my kit from TrdSparks Toyota today I used a waterproof switch from Amazon to turn them on and off. The switch is next to the drivers side light. They do not light up every time the doors are unlocked or opened, only when the switch is pushed. I used the 12 volt power from the tow plug which is only hot when the ignition is on, no leaving them on accidently. The power wire is black on the plug side and I used the yellow t tap that came in the kit once I opened up the splice metal with emery cloth. It was to small for the wire to fit and I was concerned it may cut the wire in half. For a ground I just used a 10mm bolt head that was on the bumper. Total time minus all my breaks was about an hour, took me around 3 hours due to multi tasking several tasks around the house. Here's a day shot and a night shot as well.

 

Looks good @bogginator ! Any close ups/links to the switch in case others want to follow in your footsteps?

 

Trail Tech 040-LS-B Black Push Button Light Switch
4.4 out of 5 stars116Reviews

1. 

Here's the switch I used.i got it on Amazon. Cost is $8.95, it's located next to the driver side light. It's the black button about 1 1/2" right of light and 1" down from the plastic push clip used to locate light with the template.