My truck looks pissed!!!

Probably never will. I dont care about making it louder. if i ever get exhaust it will be after i pay it off and it will be part of a whole airflow upgrade (headers, intake, and exhaust). but i wont do exhaust unless i do everything.

thats true, at this very moment my truck woudl completely dominate you're offroad Can you drive yours at all right now?

Thanks Mark, i cant wait for the rims either

 

It's a Civic.... Who would really care anyway?

 

unfortunatley for me i have that same mentality. i dont think i need to remind you of how i got my truck stuck the night after buying it or how i recklessly slammed it into a tree.... not to mention all the other random scrathes all over it

 

I'm not following the more compressed and harsher ride part? I'm looking at pictures, but it seems you get the lift by moving the shock body down by where the ring is set in relation to the coil. But the bottom of the coil to the top attachment point shouldn't change, as in compression of the coil, should it? I mean the piston or movement part of the shock is between the collar on the shock body and the upper attachment point and the coil length shouldn't change as I see it. If I'm looking at this wrong it's just my company tonight, Mr. Jim Beam. Later

 

Thanks for spending my money too. I ordered all four from Down South for $259 to the door. I don't know if I'll try this install myself as I'll need an alignment afterwards anyway. I'm guessing that you used your stock coils in this setup with the 5100's? Thanks and later.

 

Yes i did use stock coils. Let me explain the compressed spring since i didnt understood how it worked until i actually started playing in the wheel well. There are 4 grooves pre-cut into the shock with an aluminum c-ring that you can move up and down the shock to adjust the height. At STOCK height, that c-ring is closest to the bottom of the shock. the coil seat plate then simply slided down the shock and rests on teh c-ring, and that plate is where the bottom of the spring rests. if you want to go higher, you move the c-ring UP the shock. when you do this there is less room for the coil to extend. Every time you move the c-ring, and seat plate up, you are decreasing the amount of space that your coil can occupy, therefore making it more tightly coiled and more "loaded". its kind of hard to explain while typing. it would be much easier if i could draw this out. But to summarize, to increase height, you move teh coil seat UP the shock. every time you do that you are compressing the space where the coil sits. Make sense at all? Like i said, i didnt understand how this works until i started playing with it myself. although i didnt install the shocks myself. i started to (i actually spent 4 hours inside my wheel well trying to figure out how to do it without the right tools) but ended up taking it to a local shop to have it put in. even though i didnt do it myself, i had plenty of time to get aquainted with how everything works.

 

lol,30 days on the wagon isn't enough to cover t/c uca's. How ever,60 or 90 days would.

 

Remember, even if you don't want or need to raise the front of your Taco up the full 2.5 you don't have to. Heck, you can keep the stock setting if you really want to, but what I like is you get a much better overall shock/strut then OEM (Bils). These are a bit stiffer, but they really help reduce nose dive during braking and body roll when hitting thos off ramps . I had a set of 5100s on my F150 FX4 and noticed a big differance over the crappy OEM ones. So I looked at it like killing two birds with one stone. Raised my front a couple of inches and recieved a better ride overall compared to the OEM shocks. Food for thought brother.

 

Thanks for the help but I'm way ahead of the game compared to 5 months ago when I posted that.

 

That's where mine are set.....looks just right. Also gotta remember your rear may settle some time after getting the TSB done.

 

Could I do 5100s in front and just not touch the back?

 

For the HORDE!!!!!!!

 

Hahahah