ND4's Fog Light Anytime Mod... NO splicing, No Bending, 100% reversible

Is it possible to do this mod and use the fog light switch in the cab as a on/off switch for aftermarket led light bar or pods? e.g. rigid

 

Yes, but be careful that you're not pushing too much power through the stock wiring. OEM stuff wasn't meant for high powered led bars and you could blow a fuse/burn a relay or worse. I'd say pods might be ok, just try not to run them all the time. For anything higher powered, I'd recommend an aftermarket harness.

 

I run a pair of rigid D2 hyper spots from my stock fog wiring and switch.

 

just look at the stock fog wattage. i think they are 35w a piece? I have a buddy who ran a 120w led bar without issue on the stock fog circuit.

some Pods would be just fine.

FYI no amperage goes through the switch in the dash, that simply turns on the relay in the fuse box.

 

Hmmm...this is all Greek to me. I got a pair of led pods I got from @RileyLAFD that I am using in the rear of the truck. I want to be able to use the current FOG light switch in the cab as a "Tail Gater Repellent" switch to turn on/off whenever there's a tailgater behind me. Will have to mess around with this over the weekend.

BTW, anybody know what it takes to use the same LED pods in conjunction with the reverse lights? Meaning the LED pods will come on when in reverse and still function as a on/off switch?

 

Sounds like you need to consider a relayed setup with two isolated circuits with the use of diodes to fire the relay.

 

@nd4spdbh Thanks for the info! Still no clue what this means yet. Time check with google and research.

 

Did it today in probably 15 minutes, didn't even get a chance to finish my first beer

I don't have the dc/ac inverter so I went with the constant 12v route because I'm fairly responsible and shouldn't forget them on and I do not want them coming on every 4 hours or whatever. I can always switch it later if there is another option. Thanks OP for this easy option!

 

If you wanted a slightly cleaner solution with a constant 12v ability to run the fogs on when ever you wish regardless of if the key is in the ignition or not.

Simply run two wires out of the middle relay pin socket as thats a constant 12v. Then you wouldnt have an extra wire going from one fuse box to the other. Either way, glad i could help!!!

 

Did anyone else have the problem of both male terminals not fitting into the (fuse block female terminal )??????

 

Done! Waiting for new Putco LED bulbs for fogs and I'll be happy! Thanks guys!

 

Stealership failed my inspection because of "hot wired foglights" super quick fix. Inspection passed. Thanks ks for the rlwriye up old school way would of been more difficult

 

I was waiting for this to happen to someone. What type of inspection was it that made them look in the fuse box?

 

Thanks for the great write up ND4! And thanks for the single jumper from underneath idea Shuwtist! This mod worked great. 2014 DCLB Sport (I have the AC DC relay just like OP's truck) I liked this way because you can't tell that the mod has been done even with the fuse box lids off, and its still 100% reversible! Here are some details of what I did for those that want to do the single jumper.

Removed both the fog light relay, and the ac-dc relay, then removed this box from the main fuse box (it just lifts straight up and off) and turned the fuse box over.
Removed the red wire, and connector from the back of the box. There is a plastic tab that locks the connectors in. I used a very small flat head screwdriver to release the tab. Make sure you are inserting the screwdriver on the correct side of the connector.
(If you examine one of the unused slots you will see what side the plastic tab is on and how it works)


Inserted the red wire and connector into the unused slot right next to where it was. This is just a good place to store it. (The wire is unused now)


Removed the green wire and connector from the box the same way I removed the red one.


I opened up the connector a bit more with a screw driver to make room for both the male connector and the ac dc relay tab to fit.


Test fitting to make sure the tab from the relay and the male connector fit, but are tight enough for good contact.


Or should I say "she-male connector"? This is what it looked like before I bent it straight. I believe you can get these at any auto parts store. (bottom one in the picture's)



I smashed the shit out of the female part of the connector with some pliers so she's nice and thin.


I also cut the insolation off with a pair of dikes so it's not as bulky.


Crimped and shrink wrapped both connectors on the wire. (I used 16 Gage wire. Or did I use 14 gage? Hmm not sure, but 14 or 16 will be fine) I'm not sure what size the female is (fog light end of the jumper) But it's smaller than the ac-dc tab and connector. (witch is a standard size I believe)


The female end of the jumper inserts into the slot where the red wire used to be, and the male/she-male end inserts into the green connector and then both into the slot.

This was the hardest part! Getting the ac dc relay tab, and the jumper into the connector. This has also been a common problem with others doing it the original 4 jumper way from the top.
Looking from the top, you can see that the plastic slot only allows for the thickness of the relay tab.
Even though I had already test fit this connection while outside of the slot, when everything is in the slot the plastic guides the relay tab so straight that it would "head but" the jumper connector and push it out the back every time I tried to insert the relay. This is why others were having the problem of the tab on the relay pushing up into the relay instead of inserting into the connector. (Two tabs won't fit very well) Others have trimmed their connectors or made them thinner somehow, but I didn't see that as a good option for me especially coming from the back side.

I THINK EVERYONE SHOULD DO THIS, weather you are doing the single jumper or the 4 jumper procedure.
Take an exacto knife and trim the plastic slot just a tiny bit. Its easy to do, and if you take your time and do it nice, no one will ever know you did it. Even looking right at it with the relay out and everything, unless they get their calipers out and measure the slot, they won't know. This will do less damage to the plastic slot than trying to shove both tabs in anyways. We are talking about trimming the thickness of a male connector tab! This will highly decrease the chances of the relay tab from pushing up into the relay and ruining it. (It's happened to many that have done this mod)



Once I did this trim, the relay tab and the jumper tab were able to bypass each other inside of the connector.


Then I inserted the fog light relay. (Make sure the relay tab doesn't push the new connecter and wire out of the slot when you insert the relay)


Then I tested the fog lights to make sure the mod did what it was intended to do, tested the ac-dc inverter button to make sure it still worked, and put everything back together!



The single jumper way might be slightly more complicated, but I just wanted a cleaner look.

Thanks ND4 for this awesome easy to do mod!
P.S. Your original mod and write up is perfect! I just hoped you wouldn't mind me sharing how I did it.

 

Yes! My last post explains why^

 

Great job and write-up!

 

Has anyone else used a spot that is Ign switched only, not reliant on the headlight switch or HVAC fan switch, also not the random EFI test? My 06 is laid out like this.

 

This is awesome!!!! great job man! Added to the original post.

 

Found an Ign 12v in the box but did the ANYTIME (actually anytime constant 12v) mod for my LED bar for now. I want to find a clean way to tap into the Ign lead.