Stripped sparkplug "Help" 3.4l

Need help asap to get my taco back up and going.
Just bought it a few months ago, the only thing I never pulled and checked was the plugs. Appears the plug was left loose bc trucks started running bad. I noticed the coil pack shaking when it was running. Onc3 pulled the plug was loose. No threads left in head (see attached pic. I purchased a tap and insert kit at auto zone (not a heli-coil coil). My problem is the socket that fits the tap (19mm) will not fit on the spark plug hole. Any suggestions other than replacing the head.

 

May need to pull the head and bring it to a machine shop. I'm sure there are tools and someone with the skill to fix your head.

 

i think its time for the pro's! ouch.

had this problem x2(2 different plugs) on a 01 ford 5.4 before i replaced the head entirely. it was a nightmare...ended up redoing the plug size to that of a 06 5.4 with a slimsert. works ok. but not ideal.

never done it on a taco but i have replaced the plugs and know the holes are smaller than the ford...good luck.

edit; timesert not slimsert and only cause i know a mechanic really well. its a very expensive kit. if not i would have used helicoil...

 

so long as you get all the shavings out of the head afterwards, you can use a helicoil kit to fix it. you need to use red threadlocker on the final installation of the insert. the threading tool has a slot for a 3/8 extension to fit in, so you don't have to worry about something not fitting, just make sure it goes in straight.

and I believe the thread inserting tool also has something similar. if not, you can always put the thread insert onto a spark plug and install it while attached to a spark plug. again, just make sure it goes in straight. that's all you're doing with their installation tool.

but I can't stress this enough, MAKE SURE YOU GET ALL METAL SHAVINGS OUT OF THE CYLINDER BEFORE TURNING IT! you can usually just get a blow gun way in there and blow it out. if anything does manage to stay in there, it will most likely blow out the exhaust

you can even just take the head off and do it that way. you don't have to take it to a machine shop for the re-threadding. but you may still want to take it there for a resurface and pressure/bench test to make sure everything is working otherwise.

good luck!

 

I'm trying to stay away from heli-coil bc you have that large tab that you use to insert it with that has to be broken off, I'd assume that would not be as easy to remove from the cylinder. As far as pulling the head, in trying to avoid that due to time restraints. Yes this for me will be a temporary fix I plan on pulling the head down the road (Mayne this summer) and replacing it.

 

That little tab is least of your worries after you drill and retap the head.

 

Well actually the heli-coil it's self would be my main concern bc they are not as strong and reliable hence as to why I'm going with a thread insert.
Yet my question still remains on socket for tap is too large to fit in the spark plug tube...
Maybe I will weld and ext to the tap and be done with it.

 

Amen. Either pull the head or pray. No way you are drilling, tapping and inserting that hole and getting all the shavings out. You will ruin surface of the cylinder in 10 minutes of running IMHO.

 

I would pull the head no matter what you end up doing, Id hate to "fix the problem" and then ruin it because I didn't a few shavings out. My.02

 

I use this guy for all of my spark plug thread repairs. Tap drivers fit in the plug tube without issue. Prior to 1st start I use a very long blow gun that can touch the piston (position the engine rotation to where the exhaust valves are open on that cylinder) to blow out most of the shavings. If you have a bore scope check your work. Then start it up. The shavings are generally small enough that they all go out of the exhaust.

$212 TIME-SERT M14 X 1.25 Spark Plug Repair Kit 4412

http://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-1-25-Spark-Repair-4412/dp/B0025NL1V2

 

thats the one i mentioned...a very good kit.

i also had a brain storm...if you have a dremmel-grinder-circsaw with a metal blade, you could cut a groove across the top of the tap and use a large screwdriver and some vice-grips to turn it...i dont recomend this but it may work...

 

In alot of cases
[OTE="CStoy, post: 11220429, member: 157225"]thats the one i mentioned...a very good kit.

i also had a brain storm...if you have a dremmel-grinder-circsaw with a metal blade, you could cut a groove across the top of the tap and use a large screwdriver and some vice-grips to turn it...i dont recomend this but it may work...[/QUOTE]

Or find a socket that fits snug...

 

Ok, so here is where I'm at right now. I've welded a hex bolt to the tap and welded a nut on the end. I'm not so concerned with shavings, I'm going to use grease on my tap. Shop vac with a 1/4" hose to reach inside the cylinder, diesel to wash out cylinder then vac out and lastly blow out cylinder with compressor. Let's see how this goes.

 

+1

You are going to have to go the helicoil or timesert route in order to make a proper repair. Anything less will result you causing more damage to the head. There is high chance of getting shavings and metallic bits in the cylinder, especially with timeserts. Because of that, i would pull the head.

Be wary of anything purchased from autozone or the like, they only stock inferior products.

 

Your repair will be fine if you do it correctly. I have a shop and I actually did one today that someone did not get tight enough and it blew the threads out. I have done several of them with the Sav-A_thread kit you are about to use.

 

the heli-coil kit i linked isn't the insert type that breaks a tab on install.... it's an actual threaded insert.

And the tap that it comes with has a square hole for a 3/8ths drive extension. And unless you welded that bolt absolutely 100% perfectly straight onto the tap, you're going to fubar your hole and new threads.

Dont use that tool. Youre going to try to turn and push that thing in straight but it wont go cause it's not a straight tool to begin with. and as you try to keep it straight, it's going to cut the hole bigger than it'ssupposed to be.

Buy the tool that I linked. It was designed to be a perfect fit and cut while loosely inserted using a 3/8ths ratchet and extension.

 

sounds like youve got the right idea... go slow and be extra careful... i would do the shop-vac and the blower before the deisel as the deisel will cause the shavings to stick to the inside walls a little...it may be a good idea tho for a final rinse.

 

What is this thinking a shop vac or air compressor is going to do anything but spread the bits around and probably press them against the cylinder. Its so nice to see people ruining cylinder linings with "aww its fine" workmanship.

^^^^^^ this

If you want to be OCD like me, pull the head and install a timesert. Otherwise he has the right idea.

 

I think this is one of those issues where you try to save time and money by doing a temp fix that bites you in the butt and only ends up costing you more. Think long and hard before you start to tap. Either way, good luck.

 

How much engine experience do you have working on Toyota vehicles? How many repairs like this have you completed?