2001 Tacoma 6cyl 4wd ext cab - Drive shaft removal

Good afternoon,

I'm trying to replace my u-joints (finally) in my Tacoma. It's a 2001 so everything is rusted and been an absolute pita to get out. I've got the rear bolts removed, the center bearing bolts loosened, and at the front flange by the transmission is where I'm having the trouble. In all the youtube video's I've watched, they didn't have any bolts up there - it just pulled out of the transfer case. Mine had 4 bolts/nuts just like the back. (I've attached a picture I found on this forum on what mine LOOKS like).

I've removed the 4 14mm nuts - however the U joint carrier will not break free from the transmission output flange. I've lightly tapped it with a hammer, sprayed it with everything, it's really making me wonder - do I have to remove the 17mm bolts like, unscrew them? Or should it just pull back and roll off the bolts. I've tried to remove the 17mm bolts but without putting enough pressure to break anything, they seem very very secure in place.

I don't want to just ugh grumph and smack stuff with a hammer too hard and break things.... but I'm not 100% sure what to do from here, should it just slide off those bolts (are they permanent and not meant to be removed?) or do I have to unscrew them? Been a Saturday project that's ended up with broken bolts, wrenches, and knuckles and has drug into Sunday night, any advice is truly appreciated.

Thanks,

Dave

 

Yes, you have to remove the bolts, too. They are just stuck. No threads on the flanges.

Don't mess those threads up. The bolts are unique to this application. You should thread the nuts back on part way, then tap on them with a small hammer.

After that, one flange might be stuck onto the other. More hammering. Be careful, when it breaks free, its a lot of weight
that will drop down suddenly. I usually use a loop of rope (or romex) to 'catch' it when it gives way. Got a fat lip
once, when dealing with a falling shaft.

 

Can you get a 6 point socket on it, so there's no way of rounding the nut & bolt? Impact wrench would be ideal for this, other than using a breaker bar and pipe for leverage. Found this to be an interesting article, on what to use to break loose those rusted nuts and bolts. "Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested these products for "break out "torque" on rusted nuts and bolts. A subjective test was made of popular penetrating oils, with the unit of merit being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" bolt. Average torque load to loosen nut:

No Oil used ........................516 foot pounds
WD-40 ..................... ........238 foot pounds
PB Blaster .........................214 foot pounds
Liquid Wrench ......................127 foot pounds
Kano Kroil .........................106 foot pounds
ATF/Acetone mix...................... 53 foot pounds

The ATF/Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than anycommercial product in this one particular test.
Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it withequally good results. Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good asKroil for 20% of the price.ATF/Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a50/50 mix. ATF = Any type of Automatic Transmission Fluid.

This version of the story was in one of the Military Vehicle Club newsletters

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CESDxCloCoQ

 

You guys are wrong...the 17mm is a STUD it does not remove! You pull the driveshaft off the stud...I stripped mine and had to replace with 11mm bolts

 

Hit it with a rubber mallet hard

 

Interesting. I've removed many drive shafts (on pre-Tacoma trucks), and never saw studs before ( all 14mm nuts and bolts). I guess the 17mm was a clue that something is different with Tacomas (at least at the transmission/transfer end anyways). Wonder why Tacoma engineers decided to do it different?

 

Idk but my front and rear driveshaft had studs...odd

 

It's to make it difficult for the DIY, to force you to bring it in for service. On the Subaru site I hear horror stories about mistakenly draining CVT transmission fluid instead of the motor oil. Both pans are black with about the same size drain plugs. Transmission deferential plugs front and back are different configuration, one is Tork the other hex! It's a Greedy world out their. Have you checked out the Toyota air injection pump? They use a sponge as a filter, after about 10 years it disintegrates into pisces and jams the impeller blades of the motor. Causing the motor to burn up, the dealership wants over a $1000 for a new one! Did you look a the vent pipe on the differential? On the front it's high to keep any water from getting in. On the back it's a stub about 2 inches high. This is so when you back into the water with a boat. Their hoping some water will get into the differential causing problems later down the road.