How to Change Front Brakes (Pads and Rotors)

I went with A

 

Well fast forward 3 months and I think I agree with you. Look at my rotors, they're scored bad. Not entirely sure it's all the pads fault though. Grit and shit get trapped in there and then when I brake it's score city. When I run my finger across the rotor there are ridges and valleys. I think I'm gonna lean on Autozone to get warranty replacement pads, and buy new rotors. God damn, just can't win sometimes.

 

I would refrain from getting the same pads unless you plan on replacing rotors every time with the pads. We have used OEM brake pads on a 2009 Tacoma and the Duralast on 2010 4runner. The Tacoma's rotors are a lot smoother than the 4runners. It's the pads.

 

I just did this - but cheated a bit and took the truck to a friend of mine who owns a race car shop. I ended up mostly watching and gophering while he did the job - though it was very straight forward and he finished quickly. The best thing about having Malcom do it was that he is much better at bleeding brake systems than I am - and has really cool air powered vacuum bleeder tools. The only thing interesting was that the retaining pins were a bit corroded and needed be cleaned up on a wire wheel. The new pads I bought on a big sale at Amazon for $25 (open box deal) seem to be really good, and the truck stops great. Gave Malcom $50 and everyone is happy.

 

OP. Thanks for the instructions. I ordered EBC USR slotted rotors (

$142 USR7237 USR Series Sport Slotted Rotor

USR7237)and 7000 Greenstuff pads (EBC DP71657) separately from EBC Brakes on Amazon because I could not find the S4 Kit Greenstuff 7000 and USR Rotors (Truck & Suv Type) anywhere. Only thing missing is the EBC Caliper lube. It was $260 total with free shipping.

Dirtboyz:

I did not know what the non cotter pin setup looked like, but stumbled upon a You tube video called "Front Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement 2005-2014 Toyota Tacoma" by 2CarPros which I think shows the non cotter pin setup. Check it out and see. The cotter pins and that thing look different to me, I do not have that big metal dodad on the back of the caliper so i think it may be a different caliper setup but am not sure. I have cotter pins, and also have two holes in rotor for M8X1.25 bolts to push off the rotor which were not in the video which was strange. So, it does appear there are two different front brake setups for Tacomas.

FLJB

 

Just changed rotors and pads on Saturday, first time doing brakes. Thanks @LoadedTaco for the video!
Everything went smooth BUT, after pulling out of the driveway to start the break-in process I heard a metal on metal noise coming from the front passenger side. Pulled back in, pulled the wheel and calipers off and sure enough the sheet metal flange on the back of the rotor was bent slightly and was contacting the back of the rotor. Not sure if I hit it on accident when trying to knock the old rotor off or what, anyway I easily bent it back by hand, put the calipers back which was a PITA since I pulled them off with the pins, pads etc. still installed, and that fixed it.

Anyway, another maintenance-procedure notch on the belt, will be a piece of cake from now on!

 

I just did mine today with the EBC kit the OP used. Backed up a bit and pressed the brake and had this happen. It sounds really bad and I am worried of actually taking the truck out of the garage. I pulled it back in and checked for anything rubbing and it all looks ok to me. Brake fluid is over the max line like OP said it would be, but that's the only thing I noticed really. Granted I have only gone a few feet back and forth, I am just worried because its not a sound I have heard in my truck.

 

I could use a little advice.....

I've got an '05 Tacoma Sport. 135K on it. This is probably the 2nd time I've replaced the front pads and calipers. Last week I replaced my front pads and rotors prior to Thanksgiving travels. Prior to that I heard a grinding noise when turning LEFT and had a moderate amount of shaking from the front end at highway speed.....55 kinda bad, 65 pretty bad, 70+ unbearable for a 3 hour road trip.

Truck has been lifted with a 3" lift. Don't know how bad that ruins everything.

Anyways, I installed new pads and rotors last week. Now the noise and grinding is reversed. It used to appear to be the front driver's side caliper, now it seems to have shifted to the front passenger one. Turning right makes it grind really bad. Noticeable "whump, whump, whump" noise when the tires are rolling down the road. Can feel vibration coming up through the gas pedal at highway speeds. When I did the brakes, I did NOT bleed them afterwards. Would this cause them to "hang up" and always be slightly in contact with the rotors all the time, as opposed to sucking them apart a bit when the brake petal was not depressed?

Any advice would be appreciated. I love my truck dearly, but it isn't fun at all to drive around like this.

 

Most likely bearings and not brakes as the issue.

 

Did exactly what Loadedtaco described, down to the EBC Stage 4 Brake Kit. Except also added a front wheel bearing replacement. Took me the entire weekend because I moved carefully and followed every single detail.


I even brought the computer down to the garage so I could refer to the video.


Finished product (x2)


Thanks LoadedTaco for taking the time to produce the written instructions AND video!

 

Is there a benefit to having 2 retainer springs clips (upper and lower)? Mine only had a lower one:

 

From the factory we only get one spring. I don't know why. As far as I know it makes no difference whatsoever having the extra one in there. Some say it helps keep noise down.

 

Update: Took everything off and inspected it all. Found nothing. Put all back and tested again with same shuddering and grinding noises. Decided to carefully get it into the street and start driving. After a few more shudders it went away. Everything is good now.

So I concluded that it IS just the coating from the EBC brakes being worn off that causes it. Checked and the contact path of the pads is bare metal now. No shuddering. No squealing.
Putting it out there for any other newbie that has the experience.

 

Hey Subway 4X4 or OP, Did you or anyone else have instructions on the back of your EBC rotor Boxes? And if so did you follow it? It talks about measuring runout and taking the rotor off and moving it one lug nut until you get the runout below a certain amount. I will post a picture of the box in a second to show you. I have not done front brakes before and did not know how important this part was as I did not see it mentioned in any of the writeups...

 

Pics

 

I read all of those instructions as well, before starting my brake project (my first brake install, ever). Did everything except check the runout, feeling confident that my rotor mount/hub was in good condition (cleaned well and flat.) Off the jackstands and in its first 200 hundred yards, there was horrible grinding noises. After that, my brakes have been running smooth with no shudder. I love these new brakes.

 

Cool. Appreciate it and thank you for the reply. I am going to get a mountable micrometer thing at Harbor freight and check. I have a feeling it wont be a problem, but it is a chance to get a new tool!

 

Those rotors looks badass in black. Would be great if they stayed that way. You should paint those calipers the same color as the backing plates on the pads.

 

And a little snack too, I see.