12TRDTacoma's Supercharged M/T "Accidental" build

Thank you and no problem! I'll be talking to you soon.

 

What are you plans for tubing the rad support, have any examples you are looking at?

 

Bro...

$63 Depo RLB TY TACMA 12-15 HL ASY RH

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ue&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_1&smid=A12OIJUCEJD9VE

$74 RLB TY TACMA 12-15 HL ASY LH

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ue&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_2&smid=A12OIJUCEJD9VE

a little BHLM and reseal the lights, and you're frikkin golden. I'm about to pick up a set of these so I can do my retrofit in my spare time and not have to rush.

 

And no you can't have my OEMs.

 

I'm looking at Jordan Smith's new fully tubed front end. With a little work that same design could easily be incorporated to work with mine easily. I could also have the fabber (not sure who yet) incorporate some sort of detachable mounting points to my upper crossmember as well, which will help add some overall support to it's structure. His rad support looks solid!

I mean, that's always an option and route I can go down. Depo has always made pretty good stuff so that's defi itely not outside the running's short of stock.

Damn. Lol. You had me at OEM's until I saw the words no. Little did you know that all that no stands for new opportunities.

 

Just saying, I wouldnt want to ruin another set of OEMs the first time I jumped again, would rather rock some Depos and have to swap the retrofit over to another set if I did ruin the mounts. The answer is still no

 

You aren't wrong. Like at all.

 

Thats because I'm speaking from experience as well Where you been man? We need to go pew pew some stuff!

 

I've been in hiding is all man. It's really hard to do anything when my truck is not exactly in full commission nomsayin'? I want to hell of bad, but I don't want to risk fully breaking my headlights to the point where they won't hold together anymore, but the thing is I don't want to replace them and then destroy the new set in short order just by doing everything I like to do wheeling wise short of jumping it obviously. I really need to get back out there with you guys. I also need to pick up that touch up paint I left with you and have Jerry slightly enlarge one of the holes on the skid because it's off by a hair also.

It's been a long hiatus man street duty only sucks.

 

Yea that sucks man. I was thinking on ways to strenthen all the tabs, maybe just throwing some epoxy on all the ones prone to breaking, so theyll be stronger. Especially that bottom tab. Yeeeeeaaaaaaaa so I may have accidentally thrown out that paint last weekend while I was in a cleaning frenzy in the garage. My brain just went into 'Can I use it, nope, throw it out' mode as I tossed an entire trash bins worth of shit laying around in the garage lol. Sorry bro lol. On the plus side, i can see my workbench kind of again...

 

Yeah I have been brainstorming on ways to make them stronger as well. I think the reason why they break so easily during wheeling is because of all the flex the stock radiator support has, which causes the staionary headlights to shift in ways that it doesn't want to because it's hard plastic, then next thing you know.. SNAP!

OH NOOOO!!!! Damn that paint can would had been useful, where did you pick it up from btw?

 

Yea, hoping the upgraded bushings, motor mounts and engine crossbrace prevent to much flexing.

Amazon.com, I wanna say it was like $8 or so

 

Next round of recent news updates:

- Swapping out the Group 34 Deka Intimidator AGM to a Diehard Platinum Group 65 AGM. (Adding an extra 19 lbs going from a 41lb battery to a 60lb battery to that relocate bracket ) moving up CCA's from 775 to 930 and RC from 105 to 135. Plus the larger battery will fit a little more snug in that box.

- Picking up frame plate boxing for the entire rear end from @jeffz0rz, still debating on whether or not I want the windowed version or the fully sealed one, but that rear end will finally be getting fully boxed! I could definitely use the extra weight and strength back there.

- Adding some gusseting to those secondary shock hoops while I am getting the rear end plated.

Nothing major, but the little things add up to matter!

 

If you're gonna box the frame Id suggest whoever is doing it boxes it up to the cab. Otherwise you leave a good section of C channel that can still twist and bend between the boxed part and the under cab part. Ive got a set of Jeffs frame plates as well but theyre just going right back to him for install in April .

 

Right. All the way to cab. That's where they go all the way to don't they? At least that's what I was under the impression of.

 

No, his only go up to the gas tank, IIRC

 

yup

 

Oh that's good to know. Looks like I'll have to have Jerry use some additional plating so it can go up to the cab then.

 

First of the small mods done and out of the way. This battery is going nowhere. It was a nice and snug fit going in and the hold down top plate was nice and secure on it. Cranking voltage drop went down from 2.2 volts (original group 34 AGM 775 CCA) to 1.8 volts with the temporary lead acid (800 CCA) to a new low 1.4 volts with this group 65 with 930 CCA. I like! Also, the weight went up from the original group 34 AGM's 41 lbs to 58lbs. I like that also.







Nice and secure fit. Zero movement.

 

Latest drama. Pictures show only the aftermath. One broken leaf spring pack center bolt, smallest leaf free and totally unsecured ready to fall out. Entire rear end was slightly shifting upon braking. Had I driven on this any longer there could had been some serious consequences! Good thing I'm hypersensitive issues when they are happening.