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[solved] Brake line flare nuts stuck; cut hard line out, replaced with new

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Crom, Dec 7, 2015.

Page 2 of 7
  1. Dec 7, 2015 at 3:04 PM
    #21
    Leggo

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    Leggo slow is smooth, and smooth is fast.

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    I used to cut the brake line off, tap a 6 point socket onto the flair nut, put the channel locks on the female (base) side. twist it off! I know a bic lighter is useless and I never ever had to or tried to put a torch on a brake line.
     
    Leggo, Dec 7, 2015
    #21
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  2. Dec 7, 2015 at 3:10 PM
    #22
    Clearwater Bill

    #22
    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    Wrap it in a water soaked rag, then wrap that with the foil.

    I notice folks mention penetrating oil. Which is great. But what kind? I've often seen folks us WD40 thinking that was adequate, when something like Kroil was what was needed.
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2015
    Clearwater Bill, Dec 7, 2015
    #22
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  3. Dec 7, 2015 at 3:24 PM
    #23
    steelhd

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    steelhd Well-Known Member

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    50% ATF mixed with 50% acetone. Nothing better, period.
     
    steelhd, Dec 7, 2015
    #23
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  4. Dec 7, 2015 at 3:31 PM
    #24
    Crom

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    Crom [OP] Super-Deluxe Member

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    Yeah I use wet rags when welding to cover cv boots and steering boots, so good idea.

    I am using liquid wrench.

    I've seen this mentioned many many times in forums, but when I dig for real world results, from real people that have tried it, they report that it doesn't really work. When mixed the acetone will float on the ATF fluid. Acetone is a solvent with a very high evaporation rate.... Just doesn't seem like the right tool for the job, IMO.
     
    Crom, Dec 7, 2015
    #24
  5. Dec 7, 2015 at 3:34 PM
    #25
    Clearwater Bill

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    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    I actually have a oil can with straight ATF in it.

    Often I find that works just fine. Not to mention it's great water proofing for leather boots. :anonymous:
     
    Clearwater Bill, Dec 7, 2015
    #25
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  6. Dec 7, 2015 at 3:34 PM
    #26
    steelhd

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    steelhd Well-Known Member

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    I have made the same mistake but in my case it was caused by a cheap, poor tolerance, flare wrench. I have heard the same thing about heat but I hate flame around anything flammable. IMO the lines and fittings are cheap and you have porked that one already. Hit it with acetone/atf, cut off the line, then either power it off using a new high quality pair of real ViceGrip pliers or drive a socket onto the ruined nut.
     
    steelhd, Dec 7, 2015
    #26
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  7. Dec 7, 2015 at 3:36 PM
    #27
    steelhd

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    steelhd Well-Known Member

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    Google real world test results. People have actually quantified it.
     
    steelhd, Dec 7, 2015
    #27
  8. Dec 7, 2015 at 3:46 PM
    #28
    Crom

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    Crom [OP] Super-Deluxe Member

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    The first flare nut wrench I used was a total piece of shit. Wilmar brand that went into the trash can, got a refund from Amazon. The one I have now is Gear-wrench brand, which is better but still made in china and not what I would call quality. I call it barely acceptable. What is nice about it, is that it has a flexible head on it, which seems mandatory given the brake line bracket that is right under the bed.

    Regarding the ATF / Acetone mix. Not really interested in that. I may try and pick up some Kroil, PB blaster, etc, but generally the liquid wrench stuff, does a good job, been using it for years.
     
    Crom, Dec 7, 2015
    #28
  9. Dec 7, 2015 at 3:59 PM
    #29
    maineah

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    maineah Well-Known Member

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    Your pretty screwed now if you were trying to save the line just cut the line a it will turn with the nut and come out.
     
    maineah, Dec 7, 2015
    #29
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  10. Dec 7, 2015 at 4:07 PM
    #30
    Crom

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    Crom [OP] Super-Deluxe Member

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    I'm not giving up yet. I'm gonna try soaking the joint with liquid wrench for a few more days, and then go to it with heat.

    It's really easy to replace the hardline from the drum to the axle bracket if I must. Toyota parts sells it flared and finished as a ready part.

    I don't want to F-up the hard lines on the frame though. There is hardly any room to work there so cutting, reflaring, would be a pain or even impossible. plus I don't have those tools. I want to be real careful...
     
    Crom, Dec 7, 2015
    #30
  11. Dec 7, 2015 at 4:13 PM
    #31
    KenLyns

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    KenLyns 8.75" Third Member

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    Learned this from one of the EricTheCarGuy videos. Haven't encountered the problem myself:

    1. Drive out the square clip so the flex hose is free to rotate.
    2. Grip the flare nut with a big pair of vise grips or good-fitting flare wrench so it doesn't rotate.
    3. Rotate the flex hose off the flare nut. Grip the flex hose fitting with whatever means at your disposal, since the flex hose is replaceable.
     
    KenLyns, Dec 7, 2015
    #31
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  12. Dec 7, 2015 at 4:56 PM
    #32
    Incognito

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    Incognito No better friend, no worse enemy

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    I would try this with a nice pair of vice grips. Soak them a couple times with the mixture and let it sit on there for a day or so and try again.

    EDIT: Late to the party
     
    Incognito, Dec 7, 2015
    #32
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  13. Dec 8, 2015 at 7:56 AM
    #33
    GHOST SHIP

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    GHOST SHIP hates you.

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    :popcorn:
     
    GHOST SHIP, Dec 8, 2015
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  14. Dec 8, 2015 at 8:36 AM
    #34
    Boston6154

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    Boston6154 Member

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    Use mapgas torch with a spray Bottle of water . torch nut as hot as you can when ready grab spray bottle to spray the nut while turning the nut ...crazy I know but it works ! I was taught this while working for a very good mechanic it was his trick of the trade if you will. good luck
     
    Boston6154, Dec 8, 2015
    #34
  15. Dec 8, 2015 at 8:50 AM
    #35
    nd4spdbh

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    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    This.... and just below that would be aerokroil....... pb blaster n liquid wrench are freaking childs play.
     
    nd4spdbh, Dec 8, 2015
    #35
  16. Dec 8, 2015 at 9:28 AM
    #36
    steelhd

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    steelhd Well-Known Member

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    Kroil/Aerokroil is for sure good stuff.
     
    steelhd, Dec 8, 2015
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  17. Dec 8, 2015 at 9:32 AM
    #37
    dofartshavelumps

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    dofartshavelumps Well-Known Member

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    if you can get a 6" or 8" pipe wrench in there it may work.
     
    dofartshavelumps, Dec 8, 2015
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  18. Dec 8, 2015 at 9:43 AM
    #38
    Drainbung

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    Drainbung Somedays you are the show....

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    Once you have the square clip off you'll have access to the "flats" on the other side of the fitting. Use double wrenches (pulling towards one another) and it should come loose. Use double wrenches when tightening them back up as well. Good luck!
     
    Drainbung, Dec 8, 2015
    #38
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  19. Dec 9, 2015 at 3:44 PM
    #39
    Leggo

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    Leggo slow is smooth, and smooth is fast.

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    I had a pair of curved jaw channel lock type pliers from Bluepoint. They were about 7/16" thick so those things did not flex and the grabbed like a bastard. They made short work out of things like this..
     
    Leggo, Dec 9, 2015
    #39
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  20. Dec 9, 2015 at 3:47 PM
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    murderedtaco23

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    murderedtaco23 Well-Known Member

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    murderedtaco23, Dec 9, 2015
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Page 2 of 7

Products Discussed in

GEARWRENCH Flex Head Flare Nut Wrench, 10mm x 12mm - 81687
$19.95
IRWIN Tools VISE-GRIP Original 4" Locking Wrench with Wire Cutter (item #8)
$10.15
Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil, King Size, 13 oz. aerosol (AEROKRO0ILKING)
$29.76
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