Gray223's "The Resurrection" 98 rebuild build

really enjoyed reading the rebuild man

 

I'm glad it was an enjoyment! Thanks for reading!

 

OP is updated on future plans for the truck. Hope to get bump stops installed and sliders made over winter break. As well as fix the front bumper from rubbing and do some trimming to it. Also do some trimming so the front tires won't rub. Maybe I'll get some goodies for Christmas to put on it as well... stay tuned!

 

Your a 5vzfe right?

 

Yes

What did you use for water lines on your turbo?

 

They sell braided stainless by the foot on ebay. Tapped into tb oe line locations for feed and return. And got anodized couplers for turbo portion. If your going to do it really pick my, @StAndrew, and @GioGuitarDude . We've all done it to our 3.4 and can give many pointers.

 

Thanks. Yeah I've probably asked all those guys questions whenever I can think of them. I got it mostly figured out. Still don't have a picture in my head of how the water lines go. And have no idea what vaccum lines need to be changed or whatever. So you think I'll be okay in stock injectors, pump, and ecu if I just start at a 5psi spring?

 

Did you tap into those lines running to what is labeled as the iac valve? Then did you just return it on the other side? What did you use to tape into it?

 

Yes. You can cut the lines and use like a 2 way nipple and hose clamps, or just take it right off the oe locations. Hose clamp it to those. I'll have to look at mine to make sure. Remind me and I will. Vaccum got me too at first but it's pretty simple. You'll reroute your fpr hose to the manifold on front where it is capped off. The cap will face you. Just below that cap is the fpr hose. This increases your fuel pressure as you boost. You'll need a 3/8 inch check valve. $2 on ebay. The back right of the manifold is where you will tap into for boost reference. I'll send you some pics too later. Also you will drop your front different to install the turbo oil drain.

 

I use Norprene tubing with 1/8" wall thickness. Resistant to everything but kinks easy and tears easy so be careful. I forgot the ID I'm using. In fact, now that I think about it, I might have some left over. I'll check on it.

Look at your TB, there are coolant lines running to it to keep it from freezing over (some people in the southern states remove this to keep from heating the intake air).

I removed the lines from the block to rear of the TB and ran it from block to heat exchanger (used a small trans fluid cooler) to the turbo to the TB. I didn't touch the coolant return line from the TB.

 

Thanks

If you could get the ID that would be great. Running a small trans cooler like that would probably be a good idea.

 

Looked it up in my Amazon orders. Its pretty expensive and I might have enough left to send you:

Durable Norprene Blended Rubber/Plastic Tubing, Rated for Vacuum, Flexible, Black, Opaque, 61A Durometer, 3/8" ID, 5/8" OD, 1/8" Wall, 25' Length

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BWT9QU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
3/8" ID 5/8 OD

Its only rated to 10 PSI which gave me pause but so far no issues

Used these clamps. Worm clamps can cut into the material (and these are much easier)

$11 5/8" Heavy Duty Double Gripping Nylon Plastic Hose Clamps, 225° F / 200 PSI Rated, 10 Pack (Made in USA/UK)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y87C9S?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

Heat exchanger I used (its kind of small but I didn't have much room with my big ass trans cooler already installed):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BWT9QU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

 

Sweet thanks for the links! I'm probably a ways away from this project. Just always been curious and am making a list of what to get and do if I ever want to take it on.


That link for the heat exchanger is the same as the one for the hose.

 

Sorry about that. Here:

$48 Hayden Automotive 676 Custom-Add-On Rapid-Cool Transmission Cooler 11.0” x 5.875” x 0.70”, Not for Direct Replacement

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C39CL8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

 

@StAndrew I remember reading something about getting different v band clamps because the cx racing ones arn't any good. If this is true which ones did you get?

 

Yes I did. They are flimsy and use a nylon lock nut that melts and loosens over time. Recommend you get only the CX Racing header kit (call and asks for Ace and ask to get the kit without the vband clamps and see if he will give you a discount).

x3 3" for the down pipe:

$29 Vibrant Performance 1491C Stainless Steel Quick Release V-Band Clamp

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P28WK2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s04

x2 2.5" for the cross over pipe:

$26 Vibrant Performance 1490C Stainless Steel Quick Release V-Band Clamp

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P2795Q?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

Depending on the size of the turbo compression output size (mine is 2.5") you may need an adapter as the TB is ~2.75".

 

Those vibrant are way better. A few of my cx ones snapped when tightening them.

CX does military discount too.

 

The turbo I was going to get has a 2.5'' output. I remember reading some things about using rtv and stove gasket maker or something. What are these used to seal?

 

I used the stove gasket maker as kind of an RTV for mounting the turbo to the flange. It dries into a cement and does an outstanding job of sealing any gaps. The provided metal gasket is utter crap.

You can also use it to mount the headers to the block as I've heard the headers don't mate up too well with the block. I bought a new set of Toyota header gaskets and they seem to be working ok.