The Getaway...Crom's build and adventures

Tell me more on this manual shifter? Can you bypass the electronics and put in a stick? It do you have to swap in a whole new tcase?

I really need to dig through your thread man. I had the ABS kill on my 08 sport but didn't do it on my 15. So many buttons to turn off/ on shit and I didn't want to start modifications to that stuff yet. I haven't noticed the issue with the brakes off road like my 0i. My 08s ABS was a noisy bastard off road in sand.

 

I edited the post above to include a picture, under the picture is a quote by "username" that's Logan. Follow the quote to his build thread. He is very talented at creative problem solving. He calls it Hillbilly Engineering. . His build is a fun read, read it twice now.

 

keep forgetting to sub to this, looking good

 

Thanks!

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MKMG-FdCGtM

 

i'll second this. I know there are a lot of peeps that follow this awesome thread.... so get out there and vote!
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2015-tw-awards-build-thread-of-the-year.403689/page-12

 

Some random food for thought:

I was very disappointed that my Tacoma came with an electronic t-case shifter. And I was jealous my buddy's 4Runner has a manual t-case shifter. Six years later I can report I have had ZERO issues with the electronic shifter. Yet I have had friends with different vehicles have their manual shifters fail on them. In one case we were able to eventually get the vehicle out o 4wd. In another, the vehicle had to be towed home once we got to pavement.

 

Very interesting indeed. There is a writeup around here on how to disassemble the electronic 4WD actuator and solder the contacts.


For whatever reason Toyota didn't use any solder the electrical contacts are merely pressed into place and held in place by friction which is a problem over time.

 

Maybe, maybe not. There might be some value in having flexible connections for automotive (read high vibration) applications. Kind of like how you don't want to use sold wire for automotive applications.

 

Hey buddy what all did you do to make your CO2 tank?

 

Voted for this build as build of the year. Very normative and well laid out.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2015-tw-awards-build-thread-of-the-year.403689/

 

Thanks for sharing all this helpful info! It's appreciated. How's your experience been with the Toyo Mud Terrain's in general. Thanks.

 

Thanks!!!

I've got about 5 different things to update and share about related to truck building. As soon as I get to my workstation, hoping to do it tonight...

Will post very soon!

 

Thank You.

 

Extended rear brake lines have been installed.

It took considerable effort to get these installed along with courage, and a lot of patience. I've never worked on brake lines before.

As it turns out one of the flare nuts on the axle bracket had the shoulders rounded off by a bad flare nut wrench from when I tried to install in April 2015. Now it's December and I have to get the lines installed.

I ended up having to use vice grips to clench and twist them apart. Much to my surprise I was unable to separate the soft line from the hard line. I tried so hard. I ended up ordering a new hard-line for $15 and had still had to cut out the old one. The new one went in like butter and everything is now working great.

The best advice I can give based on my personal experience is this:

1. Lubricate with penetrating oil the following parts:

• the hard-line about an inch before the flare nut
• Flare nut

​

1. Use a hammer and punch to tap out the retaining spring clip
2. Use vice grips to clench the "flats" of the soft brake line fitting
3. Use a quality flare nut wrench and press the wrenches together, and twist them apart. I used a gear-wrench brand with flexible head, and it worked really well.

The new lines I was putting in.

The stock length rear brake lines on my truck measure out to 18.5" when I take octaco ext lines and subtract out the flared connectors, they measure out to 21.5".

In essence they are exactly 3" longer than stock.




Before I attempted to install my lines I measured the old ones and compared to new. Everything checked out. They were exactly 3" longer than stock, which is exactly what I wanted.

This is how I was successful at breaking the flare nuts loose using the procedure above. The flare nuts at the frame bracket were not problematic using the procedure.

The stubborn flare nut on the axle bracket closest to drivers rear wheel was a serious pain and needed TWO vice grips to break loose.

Every thread had to be vice gripped, it never gave up.

This one. This is the mother fu**er that would not come apart.

So stupid. No matter how hard I pulled it would not let go.
With the new hard-line in hand I just cut the old bastard out.

Go to hell!

I test fit the new hard-line with the new brake lines. All was good. So installed new.

When I install threaded fasteners, often times I'll add a bit of grease to the threads. This guarantees that in the future, no mater what, I can get the joint apart with ease.

All installed now.




Thank you to those that chimed in on my flare nut stuck need help thread.

Special thanks to these individuals for offering advice, help and moral support. Much appreciated.

@PerfectTekniq
@gordi
@KenLyns
@Drainbung
@Chickenmunga
@Torspd
@Wishbone Runner
@chadstacoma
@Drainbung
@scottalot
@nfs257
@DoorDing
@Jimmyh
@sytfu510 Thank you Alex for your writeup in the @OCTaco brake line thread, very helpful.

 

Getting more out of the rear suspension.

For some time now I've known that the limiting factor in my rear suspension was the OME shock. It is exactly the same length as the Toyota factory shock. The reason OME did this was so that the owner would not have to install extended brake lines. Well I want maximum performance from my Dakar Spring pack so I had to change them out. After my success with the brake lines, I drove straight over to Downsouth Motorsports and picked me up some RCD B110 shocks. $194 out the door. Thank you DSM.



By switching to the RCD B110 I gained a full 3" of wheel travel.
Max droop from center hub to fender with OME was 28", now I'm measuring a full 31"

Here are the stats, the old and the new.

OLD Yellow OME N182 Nitrocharger

• Internal Design: Twintube, low pressure.
• Extended Length: 23.94"
• Collapsed Length: 13.86"

New Silver RCD F4-BE5-B110-T5

• Monotube, High Pressure gas shock
  
• Extended Length: 27.28"
  
• Collapsed Length: 16.34"
• That is 10.94" of travel, commonly refereed to as an 11" stroke shock.
• Built by Bilstein for RCD
• Unknown shock valving.

Old vs. New.

New RCD B110 installed.


I noticed the parking brake cable got real tight under full droop, so I simply bent it outwards about 1" away from the leafs and that gave enough margin of safety. You can see it before modification dead center of photo how tight it was. lol

I can't wait for the next wheeling trip!

 

BajaRack 2.0

Short version. I filed a warranty claim with BajaRack over rust and they opted to build a new rack for me.



I'm going to tell a short story about my joy and pain. It started in 2012. I ordered a custom roof rack from BajaRack. The only thing custom was the floor. When I got the rack, I installed and for my loss, the roof brackets were too short. They acknowledged the error and made new taller roof brackets which I had to grind down and make more narrow, they were too fat, and then I had to paint them. Then I installed them. It was then I noticed the rack was shaped like a banana. They took it back and made it straight. Then after getting the rack wet, I noticed rust on it. After some dialog, I agreed I'd hit it with spray paint and they'd honor any future issues.

I have always loved my BajaRack and it has performed really well for (3) years.

Now 2015 and I see this:


This sucks.


Once the above happened, I took a real good look at my roof brackets.
Look closely.
Do you see it?

Three out of four brackets were like the one pictured below.


My guess is they didn't clean the metal properly prior to powder coating. Isn't that like Fabrication / paint prep 101?

Anyways, after a few weeks I pick up my rack from their distribution center. The rack was new. I didn't really expect a new one, but they made it new. And I get home and unpack and guess what? I put a level on it and this one too was also shaped like a banana. It had to go back to get straightened. Once I got it back I got it wet and noticed rust.

Powder coating something like expanded steel mesh welded to tube is difficult. Lots of nooks, tight spaces and voids. I can accept that. As long as the god damned metal is prepped properly before powder coating.

I picked up two cans of this.

Sprayed 1.5 cans in all the nooks and crannies.


I replaced all the roof mounting brackets with new ones. My neighbor helped me lift the rack back onto the truck.

I'm happy to have my rack back, but what a pain!
BajaRack's customer service is very honorable and good. I wish their attention to detail, and control over product manufacturing was at least as good. Nobody should take what I write as a jab at BajaRack. That's not what this is about... I'm just sharing my experience having been a customer since 2012. I am grateful for the solid customer support.

I hope this rack lasts as long as the truck does! If I have to do again, the next version will be aluminum!

 

Rehabbing my Larsen Antenna

When the BajaRack came off, so did my solar panels and my Larsen dual band antenna. My antenna was in worse shape than I had realized. This gave me an opportunity to rehabilitate it.

The whip part of the antenna is held in place inside a brass cone nut by two steel set screws. They would come loose over time, presumably from off road vibrations. I've never lost a whip, but it's not good having it flop around in there either.

I thoroughly cleaned and inspected everything.


Applied some thread locker to the screws and torqued everything proper.

I really like this grease when I need a non-petroleum lubricant. Food grade safe!



One day I'll get a spanner wrench.

Back on the truck!

 

Nice work on the thread Crom.
Burning the midnight oil, eh?

 

I really like the tires. Not too loud yet. Every tire gets louder over time, but for now they are very acceptable. Traction has been excellent in all conditions, but nothing to report yet on snow/ice. Tires air down really well in rocks and sand. The biggest adjustment has been the weight. Wheel tire combo is 84 lbs each. There is part of me that wishes I could get this tire size in a lighter tire, especially for dialy driver. For dedicated trail rig, tire is off the charts wonderful.

Yeup. I have a stupid cold and could not sleep.

I'm really glad I got the build thread updated. I'll have a bunch more come January. Updates will be slow or non existent from about now through Jan 4th.

I'll be spending a lot of time with family and traveling.

This is has been a fun interesting year with lots of ups and downs.