wheelers superbumps vs hydraulic bumps

so what would i gain with going spring under? currently where the bump hits, i have 1" of clearance till the tire hits the fender. so i thought that it really wont help anything. as i can get a custom deaver pack to keep it spring over and keep my ground clearance.

 

and please dont think i am trying to be difficult, just trying to understand

 

A lot more up travel. You'll have to trim the bedsides or go to fiberglass bedsides. I trimmed mine... a lot. I like the way they came out and I retain the strength of the stock bedsides, so I can still use an RTT on a rack on the bedsides.

 

not sure i am up for fiberglass or cutting yet lol. (had a long travel truck before this one) but i did totally forget about a little change i did that is causing the major clunk and hard bump. so after all was installed it was fine. so i installed a 1" relocation plate to move the axle back 1" and now the front ubolts hit directly on the upper metal bump stop lol.

so i will get some of these asap, still thinking of hydro so i can get that, then always add more later on. also tempted on TCs shock relocation setup too

 

I think you're undersprung and under dampened. If it were me I would run a custom progressive deaver spring pack and re-valve the rear shocks. I didn't like my OME springs with both overloads. It was nice and smooth on the road but a semi hard hit just had me bounce off the overload. More weight and it would behave like yours I'm sure. I've added an extra leaf and removed the upper overload. It is much better but still not great, and they are squeaky as hell since the upper 3 (or 4) leafs don't have spring isolation pads. I will likely order a custom set of deavers and carry my camper full time. I have icons and the rears are valved 25% firmer than typical, with adjustable compression dampening.

The OME leaf springs are really designed for a smooth ride unloaded, then they add overloads to keep from sagging under a load. They aren't were suited to what you're doing, lots of weight and higher speed off road.

I'm bet if the suspension was setup a little better, a super bump or lightweight timbren bumper would work fine for less money. I dont think just adding hydraulic bumps is going to drastically improve the ride... Could be wrong but it sounds like you need to slow down the compression all together, not just the last 2" of it.

 

yea, my shocks were setup firmer then normal, but with how far they are leaned in i loose some of that firmness. keep looking at that other shock mounting on the outside of the frame, but need to do way more measuring to see if they will rub.

 

so a little follow up, picked up the super bumps and just installed them. right now the truck does have about 300lbs in the bed so its sitting lower then normal but should help to see how they feel. also saw that one of my shocks is leaking lol

i offset it due to my axle being moved back an inch


and the leaking shock

 

how about another update,
couldn't pass up the deal on these. also installed some bilstein 6100 series remote reservoir shocks i had laying around.

 

The hard part now comes from installing those. Bumps are cheaper than the cost to install lol. Unless you're welding yourself. Bolt on mounts are usually $400+ and probably around the same to have bump cans welded in place! Good job on finding a good deal! I was holding out for King bumps (to match my other king shocks) until I found a brand new set of Fox 2.0 bumps for $200! I figured, fuckit, theyre just bumps, should make no difference! And saved a bunch of cash

 

yea, welding myself i have lots of toys in my garage lol, 2 tig welders, mig, mill, tubing benders cnc router bla bla bla. and yea i got these for 250 shipped.

 

Awesome, there you go, then! Install those puppies!