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@The Red Sled

These are pretty bad a$$.

 

Do you have these mounts for the 2016? I have a 20" rigid bar.

 

Working on the 2016 mounts now. However the 20" would be too small...

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/32-led-light-bar-mounts-stealth-and-flush-for-3rd-gens.406964/

 

Thank you anyway, your work looks really nice.

 

Hey hey!
I bought a similar light bar and want to mount it to my bumper.... the question is HOW? haha do I need to thread holes into the frame? Or is there a much easier way? My boyfriend is ready to drill holes but I don't want to if i don't have to! Help!

 

i can share some detail in a couple of days. Mine is dry mounted and have to leave time before I finish the install. I did drill and tap four holes in the aluminum tube behind the bumper (but that was easy), everything else came from Home Depot. Took out the front grill in less than two minutes to make it easier.

 

If you want to mount it in the lower grill, one of my mounts will do the trick and requires no drilling or tapping into the frame or aluminum crash bar. If you are trying to bolt it to the exterior of the bumper there are many ways to do it.

Shoot me a PM with your light bar specifics and I can help you guys work through it, whether you use my mounts or not.

 

I was worried about drilling holes in my crash bar! I was p basically all night doing some more research and it looks like that is the way to do it! Thank you so much for the help @Elmo !

I'm going to attempt to mount the light bar within the next few days.. my fiance is at drill this entire week so I'm going to wait for him to help me with it but I will def pm you @MojaveMadman if we run into any snags!! Thank you!!!

 

Is it possible to get an OEM fog lamp switch and get it to work with this setup? I prefer all switches to look factory when possible?

 

Yes you can unplug the included switch and add any switch you want. The harness uses femal spade connectors. Do you simply unplug, and push them onto whatever switch you buy. The only thing you may have to do is add one or two wires for illumination and dimming, as the harness doesn't have those.

 

I posted my solution for the lightbar

 

THANKS @Elmo

 

I got mounts from Chris and installed them today..I will say they are VERY WELL built and was packaged nicely.

Took maybe a whole 20-30 mins to put them on...Just a heads up for anyone installing them,when taking the crash bar nuts off use 1/2 drive ratchet..They are pretty tight.

Just figured I'd save someone from some busted knuckles and cussing!!

 

Installed a stealth setup today on my 2015. Really happy with everything. Chris's mounts are really well made, the powder coating is great and the fitment was perfect. Took about 15-20 minutes to get the brackets installed. I used a 14mm combination wrench and looped a 15mm combination wrench on the other end of it (for leverage) to loosen the crash beam nuts. Then I used a ratcheting 14mm combination wrench to finish taking them off. This made it really easy and I was able to do it all from the bottom. Getting the hex screws into the light bar was the trickiest part of the installation for me. It would've been much easier with 2 people. I still need to run the wiring into the cab for the switch. I bought a different switch to use and need to buy an 'add a circuit' for the added wire it uses. You will need to buy a couple of flat spade connectors and solder them to the wires coming from the light bar in order to make this a true plug and play setup.





Pic of the connection for the wires from the light bar to the wiring harness. The wiring harness comes with spade terminals installed and you will need to solder flat spade connectors to the wires from the light bar to make this connection plug and play. Also, the wiring harness has 2 sets of wires to be able to connect 2 light bars if wanted.


Pic of the switch the light bar comes with. I've seen a few people ask what it looks like.

 

Everything Chris makes is bad ass and tough as nails. You truly get what you pay for!

 

Thank you very much for the great review and install notes! I have done this a bunch of times so I may miss one or two small details in the instructions. Very happy everything has worked out great for you, looks awesome!!!

Tim, I really appreciate the great words and review!

 

No problem brother. I will catch up and make that order after I get back from Vegas.

 

Thought I would do a quick write-up for anyone wanting to use a different switch other than the one included with the Cali Raised light bar. I went with a MicTuning switch ordered from Amazon. It was around $15. It's a direct fit for the blank switch spots on the driver side kick panel. It's a four wire switch and with a few simple wire modifications it will work as plug and play with the wiring harness that comes with your light bar.

First, cut the wires off at the base of the switch that came with your light bar. This will expose 3 wires: Blue, White and Black. You will then need to strip them back and solder them to the wires of the harness that comes with your MicTuning switch.

White => Green/Yellow

Blue => Red/Yellow (There are 2 Red/Yellow wires on the MicTuning harness. Make sure to solder the Blue wire to the Red/Yellow wire that is closest to the Green/Yellow wire.

Black => Black

The other Red/Yellow wire next to the Black wire will need to be soldered to an "Add-a-Circuit."





To run the wires from the engine bay to the cab is made easy thanks to Toyota adding a spot on the main wiring harness grommet (on the driver's side of the firewall by the brake booster). Underneath the main group of wires is a small rubber nipple. Just cut the top of it off and you will have a nice hole to pass the wires thru. Next de-pin the three wires from the white plastic clip on the main harness that comes with your light bar. This is easily done by using a pick or small flathead screw driver. Then strip back most of the loom on the harness to be able to feed the wires thru easily.









Once the wires are thru the firewall you will need to put them back in the white plastic clip and then plug it into the other white clip with the wires you modified to work with your new switch. Lastly, plug your Add-a-Circuit into the TAIL fuse slot. It's on the top row, third over from the left. It uses a 10 Amp fuse and you should use a 3 amp fuse for the one you are adding. Pop out the factory blank, run the green wire clip to he back of the MicTuning switch and snap the switch into the slot. You're done!

 

@PrisonerOfDoom thats an awesome write up!!! Thank you very much for sharing this with everyone. I am a welder but not a wiring guy... This is a very goo write up even I could follow along with. Again thank you very much, I really appreciate you posting it here!!!

 

No problem man! Appreciate you offering such a nice light bar setup.