check engine and VSC light on

Hello, i scan the OBD and it gave me the code P0051, means I would have to change the oxygen sensor, does anybody know why the VSC light is on, is it relied with it or it's something else?
thanks, its my first post, this site is pretty rad!

 

Got the same P0051 code with VSC light today also. Anybody?

 

I think VSC light turns on anytime you get CEL code related to Exhaust/Emissions. I had P0420 about a year ago (which was my CAT blowing out) and my VSC was on the entire time.

 

I think it's about Toyota wanting you to see the warning, so a few lights come on at the same time.

 

Hello Usfive, I discovered that as soon as the CEL (check engine light) comes on, as a safety the VSC will come on as well and therefore you will have no sliding control.
POO51 was the bank 2 sensor 1, got it changed, it's all good now!

 

VSC and CEL came on for me after trying a locking gas cap.... Reset it and returned the gas cap.

 

Drove in 3" inches of new snow today and confirmed VSC control is not operating. Bank 2 sensor 1 is located on the driver side. Is that considered left or right when ordering OEM part?
Don't mean to hijack but info would be helpful to all.

 

Ordered

$131 Denso 234-9067 Air Fuel Sensor

Denso 234-9067 for Bank 2 Sensor 1 (driver's side). Replaced & cleared code. VSC is again working.

 

Looks like I've got the same issue now. I was embarking on a 4 hour drive from NY back to NH last night when the CEL and VSC light came on and freaked me out a bit just as I was starting my trip home. The fact that the VSC light came on made me worry because I just had the rear spring recall done 10 days ago and I thought someone may have damaged a sensor. After I pulled out my ScanGauge and determined the code was P0051 it reminded me of stuff I've read on TacomaWorld about the VSC light coming on whenever the CEL comes on. My truck is almost 7 years old with 75k miles and this is the first time the warning lights have ever come on. I cleared the code a few times last night and it came back so I've determined it wasn't a fluke.

I think I'm going to bite the bullet and order a new A/F sensor to see if that solves the problem. Now the real question is - what tool should I use for the job? I'd use a deep socket but it won't work with the sensor wires, and there doesn't seem to me much clearance to work with a box wrench. Suggestions? Should I bother getting a specialty socket for the sensor?

 

I did use a specialty socket and plenty of liquid wrench.

 

Where did you order the sensor from? I pick up most of the cheaper parts I need at my local dealer but I think I'm going to order one of these A/F sensors because they list at over $200 from Toyota.

 

$131 Denso 234-9067 Air Fuel Sensor

https://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-90...qid=1468244930&sr=8-1&keywords=Denso+234-9067

 

P0051 HO2S HEATER CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW (BANK2, SENSOR 1)

\\\\\TESTING AN OXYGEN SENSOR HEATER WITH A SCAN TOOL/////

Begin by letting your engine cool COMPLETELY and that when putting the key in the ignition to the "ON" position that the needle is as far below C as it can get. With the key still in the "ON" position, connect your scan tool and set it up to read live data. Once it is set up (some tools can't read data until the engine is running, in that case just start collecting the data as quickly as you can) start the engine. With the engine now running watch for the "Fuel System" to read either "Closed" or " CL" signifying the fuel system entering a closed loop. Another way to be sure it is in a closed loop is to monitor the voltage of the upstream O2 sensor voltage....once it starts to fluctuate it is in CL.


If your sensors heater is working like it should, this should occur in about 3-4 minutes roughly.

Hope this helps you @nh_yota

 

Should I replace both upstream sensors at once? I'm on a tight budget but I'll do whatever is best.

 

Do you have a scan tool? If you do I can run you through what to do tonight to verify tat the O2 sensors are working properly...

 

PM me tonight and I'll respond to you when I get off work

 

I wouldn't unless it also sent a code. Bank 1, sensor 1 may also be a different part #.

 

I did the procedure you posted with my ScanGauge at lunchtime today and confirmed that the ECU goes into closed loop a few seconds after startup. My engine had been turned off for a few hours since I got into the office but it's not cold out today so I figured it wouldn't run in open loop for longer like it would during the winter or first thing in the morning.

I have an older version of the ScanGauge II that I purchased maybe 10 years ago so it only monitors a handful of parameters, but it does monitor open/closed loop.

 

Yeah they are technically the same sensor but the cord lengths are different so the part numbers are different. The reason I mentioned replacing both sensors at once even though the ECU says only one is bad is because of the difference in the response time/accuracy of the new sensor vs. the old sensor.

 

Well I bit the bullet and ordered the above part from Amazon along with an OTC sensor socket to get the old one out and the new one in. I might as well start spraying the existing one with PB Blaster so it's ready to come out this weekend. Is it wise to use anti-seize on the new one, or is the exhaust manifold too hot for it to be of any value?