beefier rear help needed!!!

jberry813 · Jan 4, 2016

First gen tundra axle is pointless on a second gen taco. it's only 1" wider than a second gen taco and has the same size ring gear as what you have now. If you're breaking gears, a better housing isn't going to fix anything.
Second gen tundra housing can be done. Beefy gear set, but weaker carrier than a 9". That and you'll have to get the hubs/brakes re-drilled for 6x5.5 to match the front. Not impossible, but disk to disk 2nd gen tundra axles are normally a pretty premium with dismantlers.
My humble opinion...9" or nothing. Endless availability and options, massive aftermarket, and thanks to the wonders of nascar, gear sets available almost every 1% increment. You can put 6.0 gears in that bitch if you want.

For the record, I run a trussed first gen tundra axle in my 1st gen taco. Keep in mind my truck is probably 1000 pounds lighter and 5" narrower than a second gen. I've blew out a side gear in my factory TRD axle because I bent the housing and banana'd the driver axle, but never a R&P. So i figured a tundra axle would work fine for my needs and a closer match to the front width.

Brjw · Jan 4, 2016

Are you landing with your foot buried in the throttle or something?
I'm not jumping my Tacoma but I have a ton (or two) of weight on the rear axle, supercharged, 4.56 gears and ARB locker. And I'm not easy on it. I've also played around with it locked on rainy streets and snow/dirt with no issues so far. Maybe your driveshaft is too short/long for the range of travel?

Jeebz · Jan 5, 2016

Brjw said: ↑

Are you landing with your foot buried in the throttle or something?

I'm not jumping my Tacoma but I have a ton (or two) of weight on the rear axle, supercharged, 4.56 gears and ARB locker. And I'm not easy on it. I've also played around with it locked on rainy streets and snow/dirt with no issues so far. Maybe your driveshaft is too short/long for the range of travel?
Click to expand...

Yes I did and that is bad but nothing I didn't do in my Nissan Titan prerunner. Being that I have about 20 inches of travel in the rear on a stock drive line, I do see it as an issue. It's nice to know these 3rd members aren't as weak as I think of them now. I'll be sure to post my findings and which path I took. Thanks for commenting.

ryanjboutin said: ↑

I dunno man, maybe the guy you bought it from did a shitty regear or something.

Ask him.
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I bought it from California mini truck, the guy that sold it to me also owns engage racing. I don't know about the 3rd member but the guy seems like a dick lol

Monkeybutt2000 said: ↑

How about an 8.8 Ford?
Click to expand...

My thoughts exactly, full floater. Beats a 3700 rear end from curry.

nd4spdbh said: ↑

sounds like you need a currie rear axle that is setup to bolt up the stock drums onto. I know its been done and thats your best option as you seem to be just beating the ever living shit out of your truck.
Click to expand...

I'm not going fast enough for axel wrap and curry is way to over priced for me at the moment. I cashed out 28.1k on this truck in the past month and lookin for a cheaper alternative.

PSU Taco85 said: ↑

14 bolt from the junkyard.
Click to expand...

Looks like I will be getting one from the boneyard to keep the cost down and the performance I need

weldo said: ↑

I've seen on this forum a lot of guys jumping at the dunes and whatnot and no one has mentioned upgrading third members. Some guys may have fully trussed axle housings but they still use the Toyota third member I'm pretty sure. Stuff like this...

Maybe if the rear suspension isn't up to snuff it could introduce large shock loads to the drive line. What I mean is maybe you need a nice plush spring under axle setup with lots of up travel to provide a nice soft landing. And some burly shocks to match.
Click to expand...

That's a mighty good looking rear end, I'm already H70 Deaver Leaf Pack,
Richer Racing 2nd Gen Shackles,
,2.5 Race Fox Double Bypasses
and 2.0 Race Fox Bump-Stops. Needs some tuning but that's about it.

jberry813 said: ↑

First gen tundra axle is pointless on a second gen taco. it's only 1" wider than a second gen taco and has the same size ring gear as what you have now. If you're breaking gears, a better housing isn't going to fix anything.
Second gen tundra housing can be done. Beefy gear set, but weaker carrier than a 9". That and you'll have to get the hubs/brakes re-drilled for 6x5.5 to match the front. Not impossible, but disk to disk 2nd gen tundra axles are normally a pretty premium with dismantlers.
My humble opinion...9" or nothing. Endless availability and options, massive aftermarket, and thanks to the wonders of nascar, gear sets available almost every 1% increment. You can put 6.0 gears in that bitch if you want.

For the record, I run a trussed first gen tundra axle in my 1st gen taco. Keep in mind my truck is probably 1000 pounds lighter and 5" narrower than a second gen. I've blew out a side gear in my factory TRD axle because I bent the housing and banana'd the driver axle, but never a R&P. So i figured a tundra axle would work fine for my needs and a closer match to the front width.

Click to expand...

Thank you for that informative post, that pretty much answered all my questions and concerns in one shot. Looks like I'm spending more than I want to, like it or not lmfao!

1MK · Jan 5, 2016

What kind of driveshaft you running? If you're running the stock Prerunner one without a slip yoke, you could be putting excessive force on the pinion bearing/crush sleeve.

The rear ends in these trucks are very robust, so 2 going out very quickly is a result of extreme driving habits/conditions or something is wrong with your setup.

06HAOLE · Jan 5, 2016

You don't have to run a full floater 9" or a fabricated housing. A semi float 9" would be fine for what you do. You could even run 35 spline axle shafts for piece of mind. Just my 2cents.

If you do decide to do a 9" full floater I will send you the build sheet of the Currie 9" I had under my old 2006 Tacoma

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beefier rear help needed!!!

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beefier rear help needed!!!

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