Gray223's "The Resurrection" 98 rebuild build

E-Locker block plate wright up

I took off my elocker in hope to rebuild it and make it functional. But when I took it off, I found this.

Yeah there is a huge hole and a pile of dirt in it. It was falling apart the more I handled it. And on top of that the gear is missing. Where it is, I have no idea. I highly doubt its in the diff. The only reasonable explanation would be it got stuck in the lock position so the previous owner took the actuator out, pulled the gear off, and bolted it back up.

So obviously I couldn't drive around with a huge hole in my diff so I fabbed up a block plate for a temporary fix until I find a new actuator.

First thing I did was cut out a piece of cardboard big enough to cover all the bolt holes for the actuator. I placed it over where the actuator would go and hammered all around the bolt holes and guide pins to make a template. This is what it looks like after hammering. This is the side facing the diff.

Got a scrape piece of 1/8" steel plate and cut it to the size of the cardboard, excess will be trimmed later.

Placed carboard template over steel and marked all the holes with a marker. They wont be perfect. A die grinder will be used to enlarge holes so everything will line up.

After drilling

Then after some grinding in the holes so it would fit and set flush. Also marked the excess that will be cut.

The original bolts were too long. We found bolts with the same thread and stacked washers. It doesn't look pretty but it works. Also put some rtv around the hole in the diff for a good seal.


So far no leaks!

 

CVJ AXLE INFO

Emailed cvj and they gave me a lot of good info. If anyone is interested in there axles look here.

You should not need the boot slide. We do it automatically. Once you install the axles we encourage you look at the boots and adjust the boots for your running angles if needed.
With the silicone inner boot, it is already positioned farther along the shaft. Due to the material it seals and stays where clamped.
The outer boot (neoprene) is a different design better suited to and better positioned for angles.


We can build a set of CVJ Remanufactured CV Axles with two days notice (we have all the parts but don't have any on the shelf). CVJ part number 9802 / 04.
Your cost is $99.00 each plus a core deposit of $75.00 each. Plus freight (UPS ground) which is about $49.00 or less for two in the US - it varies by zip code.

The core deposit of $75.00 is refunded when you return the core. These are critical cores and should be returned within 30 days for full credit.
The core must be the same original Toyota axle. Aftermarket axles cannot be rebuilt and are poor to begin with. Pic to ID OEM axles

These are original manufacturer axles that have been completely Remanufactured by us using some aftermarket parts and neoprene boots.
You get OEM steel and design where it counts at a much better price than new, with CVJ reliability at a much better price.



The axles have a limited lifetime warranty. When used for offroad or in lifted trucks we cannot warrant the axles.


Option 1 - Original OEM Toyota plastic boots on the CV joints (wheel side) are $60.00 each installed on axles we build for you. This boot is the longest lasting because it is made of Hytrel plastic which is tougher, more abrasion resistant and more chemical resistant than the Neoprene we use. Being hard plastic it does not seal as well as Neoprene. This option gets your axles closest to OEM.
There is no warranty on these boots.

Every lift kit is different, each individual uses their truck differently, etc. So, while it is is hard to make specific recommendations here is another boot options that many Toyota truck owners have found valuable:

Option 2- We also offer a red silicone boots for the Inner joints (diff side). These are $42.95 each installed on axles we build for you. (It takes two days)
Many offroaders prefer these for higher angles saying they last longer.
Each lift kit is different. These can help if your inner boots are rubbing on themselves or have longer travel.With the red boot there are a lot more convolutions (ribs) so they can be stretched out so they don't rub or don't rub as much. Also the silicone handles abrasion better than neoprene.These won't be much help with severe angles.{We have heard of a couple reports of suspension combinations that do not provide adequate clearance for this boot}. As a rule of thumb you will need an extra inch of clearance from the existing boot (radially & along the shaft). Please check the clearance before ordering. There is no warranty on these boots.

Option 3 - We also offer a Blue silicone boots for the Outer CV joints (wheel side). These are $35.00 each installed on axles we build for you. (It takes two days)
They don't weather check like the neoprene so they last longer.
Each lift kit is different. These can help if your CV boots are rubbing on themselves or weather checking. The blue silicone boot is a unique design that allows higher angles without rubbing. Also the silicone handles abrasion better than neoprene.These won't be much help with severe angles.There is no warranty on these boots.

 

Ordered a fumoto oil drain valve and xchange drivers for my halos. Should all be installed by the weekend since I'm going home. cv axles will be next.

Also got my ham technician license today

 

Oh nice, I've been debating getting the xchange drivers....

 

I thought I better. There isn't any reason for the halos to be on while the headlight are on so I thought why not.

 

Yeah, take some pics of the wiring if you can once you're done!

 

Will do

 

These look interesting...Might give them a try...

 

Changed oil and installed a fumoto drain valve.

Also installed a new e-locker I bought from a member on here. The plug that's on the truck is junk so I wasn't able to plug it in, I will just cut the plugs and wire it when I have time.

Got my new drivers and x change driver for my halos, didn't have time to install though.

 

Sub.

 

Which BPV did you use from jegs?

 

I thought I got it from low range off-road but I can't find it on there site. Maybe it was from summit racing.... I can't remember.

I'm not sure if I have it set right. The brake sucks and I don't know if it's because of the heavier tires and just the added weight of the truck or the bpv. The rotors are shot(that could be a cause as well) and will be getting tundra brakes this summer.

 

Crank it so it puts more bias on the rear brakes then If you didn't mess with it when you installed it then it could be way off.

 

We have adjusted it. Did the whole drive on a gravel road then brake and make the fronts lock up right before the backs. But I owe couldn't get it to do that lol.

 

Interesting. Safe to say you are not using your rear brakes hardly at all then haha

 

I tried to to adjust it to have more rear brake but idk. I'll make sure its properly adjusted with the tundra brakes.

 

Depending on how much money I make this summer I think it would be better in the long run to buy some ads coilovers. Then I'll rebuild my icons, clean them up, and sell them for I hope enough to cover at least one ads shocks lol.

 

You guys did a lot of great work. I'm looking at repairing my frame but it will be nothing like what you did. I'm worried about getting everything back together after pulling the cab.