2/3RZ Oil System Photo Reference

I didn't see too much by way of pictures when I was researching oil pump replacement. So I took a few while putting it back together for future reference. Please bring up any corrections and I'll edit the original post with the proper information.

A lot of the sources I had found said you have to take the timing cover off to do the oil pump, this is not correct. My Haynes repair manual is correct in that it states the timing cover (or oil pan, one or the other) only needs to be removed if you plan to remove the bypass valve.

Note I also pulled the radiator specifically to make this job easier. It is only a few bolts and the extra wiggle room makes this job go from sucky to cake.

The oil pump is external and sits behind the crank pulley.



The oil pump cover from stock is held on by Phillips head screws. LCE sells an allen key bolt upgrade as seen on the right. It was only $4 for all the bolts (I found them to be 5/32" Allen), but I didn't have any trouble with the Phillips heads so I could have done without them.



The best way to remove the stock Phillips bolts is with an impact. I'm not sure if it was 100% the right size head, but I had a #3 Phillips and it fit really well. The bolts took most of the reversing torque the impact had, but the Phillips head was deep enough it could take the torque and not strip, easy.



After removing all the bolts you'll have to take the cover off. This was a bit of a challenge as there is very little to get behind, and the pump and timing cover are aluminum and easy to damage. The primary source of trouble will likely be the two dowel pins on the far right and left of the pump cover. You can see the "gerotor" pump still in place. (Note: This picture also shows the pump packed with vasoline on the install step, which will be explained later)



The internal gear of the pump fits over the crank pulley.



Like this.



As apart of my project I had to pull the oil pan off so here's a shot of the oil system from below.



Here's a closeup of the pressure relief valve. It is held in by a snap ring.



After you remove the snap ring you'll remove the spring retainer, two springs, and the valve plug. For me the oil bypass plug was being held up by a film of oil so it took a magnet to pull it out.



Here's the individual parts to the bypass valve.



Picture from below with the pickup tube and bypass removed.



Picture from the front of the block without the oil system components.



Here's the LCE oil pump kit, they also include a full set of new Phillips head bolts.



Detail of the front main seal. It is pressed into the oil pump housing. For reference the outer diameter of the seal is about 2 1/2". A 1x3 worked decently well to press the seal in.



Back to the Vaseline. After you take your oil pump apart it will be filled with air. If you start the engine without priming the pump it will take longer for the oil to be sucked into the pump and distributed throughout the engine. Because the fuel pump is driven off the crank there are fewer options to prime the oil system on startup. As I understand it your options are pressurizing the oil system, or packing the pump with grease. The LCE instructions tell you to use Vaseline which was readily available for me. I have read others have used assembly lube. Either could work, so long as it will be washed away by the oil. Another tip I read was to remove plugs/ignition and use the starter to crank the motor over while watching the oil pressure to be sure you build pressure before you put the plugs back in and run the engine under any load.



From there put it back together in reverse. I needed a 3rd hand to push the bypass valve spring retainer into its hole while I put the snap ring in place. As I mentioned before, if you have a correction or anything to add please bring it up as this is a reference for others.


Here's the section out of my repair manual specific to the oil pump.

 

Excellent job with your write up.
Saving this in case I ever need to do this.

Thanks.

 

Sorry for the copyrights on a few images below. I have a guy on another board that loves to use my pictures as his own. What a world we live in.

I have a 2000 SR5 2.7 Manual that had the oil pump fail on the first startup from a full rebuild. Anyway, I did my best to hand prime the oil pump on the second rebuild (see pictures below). As a side note, this motor ran for 10 seconds after it cranked and then died (I did crank it over several times without the EFI fuse in to build oil pressure using this method from other threads and recommendations). Anyway, I had metal shaving in the oil pan, pickup tube and a few on the cylinder head Intake Camshaft. I had to pull the motor and tear completely down. Wash everything out/clean and reinstall (new bearings on the crankshaft, etc.). I would recommend dumping the oil filter in a coffee filter. if you see metal shavings, DO NOT ignore it. pull the block and tear it down to have it cleaned. Metal shavings could be floating around in the oil galleys.

1. Oil Pump Failure:

2. Close Up of Oil Pump:


3. Bottom of Oil Pan (Ran for 10 seconds after cranking to build pressure a few times -> no determination when it failed).


4. Timing Cover after pump failure!


5. Priming Sequence for new pump (at least this is how I did it).

step 1. Flip the motor upside down and pour oil in the pickup tube hole in the timing cover until it is full.

Step 2. Use a small screwdriver (flat head in my case) to spin the oil pump CLOCKWISE.




Step 3. Refill pickup tube hole and continue spinning the oil pump closwise until oil comes out of the oil filter bracket.


Step 4. Install the pickup tube and gasket and torque to spec.

Step 5. Fill the pickup tube completely full of oil.

Step 6. Take Transmission Assembly Goo (thanks Bamatoy1997) and smear it on the pickup tube screen. This will help seal the pickup tube to create vacuum when you flip it back over and install in the truck.

This is how I did it. I am in no way an expert mechanic, but the "toyota" method of keep cranking it over until it builds oil pressure is beyond ridiculous!

Don't forget to install the oil filter (fill with oil before installing) after flipping the motor again.

 

Did you put bypass back in? Or did you remove for cleaning?