Start-off Shudder on '15

I had the shutter when the truck was brand new and it got a little worse when I lifted the rear 1.5". Now at 8,000 miles on my 2015 and I'm getting really sick of it!

I get a hard shutter only when accelerating in 2wd from 5-20mph then goes away completely. It's still there in 4wd just not as noticeable. It's really bad when starting on a steep hill...

I did the ECGS differential bushing and have tried multiple combinations of rear differential angle shims and carrier bearing flips and drops. I even put sand bags in the bed to weight it down.

Can someone help me and give me guidance on where to go from here? I'm getting frustrated with the truck and don't even like taking short trips anymore because the shutter is that annoying and I feel like I'm damaging the drivetrain!

 

Have you been greasing your u-joints?

 

Im assuming auto trans? Could be covered under warranty?

 

Are you sure it's in the drive train? Based on the situation you're describing (shudder while accelerating at low speed then disappearing at higher speed/rpm) it sounds like you may be experiencing the pre-detonation/spark knock that many have complained about. Toyota actually issued a service bulletin addressing it with an ECU flash. Apparently it was an electronic timing issue.

I was able to make it better by running higher octane fuel but just had the TSB done last weekend and now I appear to be good.

Found one of the threads. Many use the term knock or ping but most describe the sound/sensation as a stutter/shutter, always on acceleration. Check it out (note all the crazy things guys were trying before they discovered it was a computer/timing issue): https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2012-v6-at-dcsb-engine-knocking-1500-rpm.230991/page-26

 

I just went through this same process with my 2015 as well. I raised the rear with an add-a-leaf, 1.5 inches, and I was getting vibrations in your same range. I went to the dealership and was promptly told to pound sand.

I took it upon myself to fix it. I bought a digital angle finder, and read every single word of information divulged by the google machine. There is as much misinformation out there, as good information, relating to this problem, specifically the blind recommendations as to axle shim orientations. You MUST measure with something besides your calibrated eyeball.

The complete resolution to the issue involved a 1 degree axle shim, installed fat end forward, to push the pinion nose down, and a 1/4 inch carrier bearing spacer. The u-joint angles at each end of the complete driveshaft are 4 degrees, and the center joint is at .6 degrees. The pinion is one degree down from the angle of the transfer case output flange.

I tried many combinations of parts, (2.5 degree shims - fat end to the rear, tapered blocks, back to stock), and every possible carrier bearing variation with each type of rear end setup. The truck is now vibration free.

Although frustrating and time consuming, there are solutions, PM me if you need help. I"m not saying this is the "cure all" for everyone, but I was able to fix my truck from what I learned, and so can you!

*Just a side note, I got the one degree shims from a friend who had them factory installed on his 2015, fat end forward. Im thinking others with vibration issues might want to look into it*

 

The street tacos 4" and under CB drop fixed mine. Long wait, but worth it. There's no one specific thing that fixes the vibe - I tested stuff for a long time. ECGS, OME CB drop, Even replaced all my u joints. For me, it was the angle of the drive shaft at the CB.

 

Do you know which TSB or where I can find info about it? I just bought an 05 DCLB and it does what you've described... It felt like one of my previous cars that had a busted EGR valve... it would shudder/stutter but as soon as i left off the throttle, it would go away.

 

I think the TSB I'm referring to is for 12 - 14 tacomas. It's TSB 0044-14

 

From the research that I have done, it really is a case to case basis. Different fixes/mods for each truck. Some even went back to the dealer and they some how fixed it under warranty. Some have been told that its the way it is from the dealer. They should do something about it being a 2015. My scenario is as follows just to give some insight: I have a 2006, had driveline vibes from 0-15 mph under load that progressively got worse as mileage increased on the truck increased. I figured that it was normal. Changed u-joints at 100k and was good for a while. At 120k I installed 2 inch lift, vibes came back. Installed OME carrier drop at 130k, seemed better. Installed 3 degree shims, was better for a while. At 140k I went with 3 inch lift, it came back. Blew out 2 hangar bearings as a result. Then I finally converted to 1 piece shaft at 200k. No more vibes

 

I have same truck with similar mileage and no issue that speak of—just FYI—not normal!

 

Did you have a local shop build you one? Or buy it from somewhere online? I'm interested in this for sure.

 

My stock(with only front 5100's set at .85") '14 4x4 OR/AC had an annoying 15-25 mph shudder. It's now 95% gone, since I added $10 leaf spring clamps on my rear springs about 6" forward of the rear. Same clamps on my old '03 Silverado solved my driveline clunk(which dealers said was a "normal condition"). I think a lot of the problem starts with "axle wrap", caused by our weak-ass springs.

 

Actually this is quite normal. Been an issue on about half of these trucks since 2005.

 

OP this is a common problem. Many of us who have had the tsb work done have found no benifits. In fact when they did the tsb and changed a bunch of my stuff it was even worse then before. There are several options.

You can install traction bars. Fixes problem guarenteed. Just expensive and may not be for you.

You can install a an add a leaf, not too costly but many members have found sucess with it.

Mess with pinion angle and carrier bearing angle. Hit or miss.

Most these vibrations under acceleration from 5-30mph are cause by axle wrap and the changing of the Pinion angle.

 

Agreed....

 

Local Shop

 

2 problems -

video of hangar bearing issue- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGCJ_6iDOqg

Video of axel wrap issue- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hXtvzy72Z8Q

 

good god that crossmember flexes like no ones business!!!

I have played around with spacing the CB down etc to get the center u joint close to 0 so there is no side loading at that joint to cause extra stress on that crossmember / cb rubber. I have also filled my CB with silicone to stiffen it up. Overall its helped alot!

 

I am going to borrow a digital angle gauge from a friend this weekend to try and them into spec. The only thing that worries me is that the truck had a very slight shutter from the time I picked it up in May of this year with only 7 miles on the clock. Dealer said "NPF" when I brought it in for this issue..

Anyone have any experience with the u-bolt flip kits with the big metal bracket to possibly stiffen up where the leafs are mounted and supported?

 

I guess that's why the Streetacos CB drop kit works...it stiffens up the bracket as well as changes the angles.