What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I do plan on getting ucas in the future. Maybe this summer when I can get more hours. But until then.

 

Back to the door panel removal. There is a thread, just search 1st gen door panel removal, it has good pictures and write up. But it is very easy except for one part. This is easiest with the window down. First, remove 3 screws, 1 behind the door opening handle, 2 that hold on the pull handle (should be covers to remove with a small screwdriver), then slide a medium screwdriver between the panel and the door. You will feel where the clips are. Be very careful and gently pry up a little bit to release the clip. Mine popped of without a problem. Also slide a screwdriver under the black plastic cover hiding your side view mirror bolts and pop that free. Now the secret! The door opening handle needs to slide forward, that is toward the door's hinges, about 1/2" and it will come free. Now lift the bottom edge of said panel, "feed" the door opening handle through the hole and the panel will lift out. Good luck and happy wrenching!

 

use my winch to reposition a co-workers daughter totaled Chrysler 200. Damn flat bed left it 21 inches too far from the curb and the sheriff didn't like it. no picture of my winch in action.

 

This "mod" is very easy for most of us on here and costs $18. The OE horn is crap and sounds like it belongs on a golf cart. Swap in a better horn guys. It's also safer when you do need it (mine sounds like a Ferrari's horn). The relay fried in mine because I didn't seal it up in the original location I mounted it in, so I figured I'd take a couple pics and share.

Link to one possible horn but there are plenty of others to chose from.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Lou...or-Car-Motorcy-Truck-/321824954473?nav=SEARCH







Also, not sure why people are putting out misinformation on the tundra brake upgrade costing $600-900 but that's not correct. Additionally it is very much worth doing as the OE braking is pretty suspect to say the least. There is a HUGE difference when going to the bigger setup and it costs $316 for the full kit.

Link here

Callahan CCK11988 FRONT Powder Coated Red [2] Calipers + [2] Rotors + Quiet Low Dust [4] Ceramic Pads Performance Kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E...+brake+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=51gpY5NwzrL&ref=plSrch


OH, GO BRONCOS! hahah.

 

Why do you need stronger vaccum hoses? Or colored?

 

Took off the camper to help a buddy landscape his yard. Hauled 4k lbs yesterday, took two trips of 2k lbs.

Unloaded:

Loaded:

Man, I loved the stance without any weight in the back. Safe to say the leafs are settled, and this is their final height.

 

If you're happy with your alignment after the lift, I would say UCAs are unnecessary for most. I ran without them, including a lot of wheeling, for a long time. And if you end up needing them solely to improve your alignment, I would stay stick with LR for cost, adjustability, and simplicity of a ball joint.

Again, YMMV.

 

Plug and play?

 

Thank you! I just need some one to BS with about this.

Practicality
I need some new hoses, only because the old rubber ones are brittle and falling apart. Potentially leading to vacuum problems. Just replace them all while I am at it.

Mall crawl/OCD
I also want to "clean up" my engine bay. In general with my truck I want a kind of theme, somewhere between green/camo/red/black/TRD.

I only need colored hoses that arnt cheap and will not collapse. So they dont need to be stronger just strong enough not to fail.

Going to install these today, and I will be painting the Tundra calipers green.

 

I was looking at hoses a few days ago, and saw the recommendations on hose kits. Siliconeintakes has kits, I've read both really positive and really negative reviews, never used them myself. Their colored kits seem to all be out of stock with no word of when they will have more...
Black kit (in stock):
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/liquid-air-adapter/silicone-boost-vacuum-hose-p-590.html

Others:
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/silicone-boost_vacuum-hose/?searchstring=Kit

They do seem to preach having thicker walls that do not collapse.

 

Not plug and play but close enough imo. Remove oe horn, pos. and neg. wire hookup to oe pos. and ground (solder/splice/dealers choice), drill hole and mount. Of coarse remove grill section and reinstall. Could be done in an hour. I flat blacked mine too because the one I bought was red. @GioGuitarDude has one too.

 

I'll look into that. I have a fuse box that I need to tackle before I add any new wiring

 

Blew a fuse that powers my stereo and installed some tool mounts in the bed (https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-20-tool-mounts.415085/)

 

Washed Taco

 

Nothing compares to the POWER of adding a millenium falcon sticker to your taco!

 

I need a little help. My tailgate handle broke on the inside, but I'm unable to reach the screws on the back side of my tailgate due to the drawer system/ platform in the bed. Any ideas to get the tailgate open for repair?

 

Try a couple of tiny screwdrivers and pry back the latches?

 

Not even a newer Corellian freighter, like Dash Rendar's Outrider? He claimed the Millennium Falcon was an old pile of junk in comparison...

 

That was the plan

 

Awesome........! Corellian.