*Indel-B Fridge/Freezer GROUP BUY AND BS THREAD!!!**CLOSED

Any cover made for the fridge.. will have to be modified

 

INDEL-B Latch/Hinge removal

Since there was not much to the hinge mod... I'll just share what I found on dis assembly.

For the front latch handle. Ain't she so purdy.



If you open up the lid, its easier to see...

Simple design. You may have to pull it up a little bit, but just get a screw driver and push to the left on one of the two rings on the shaft. It'll disengage the right side from the lid and voila... its off.

For the lid hinge, these are your hinges. Another simple yet effective device.



I was thinking I'd have to cut the thing off since I didnt see a way to get to the hinge, but then I saw the secret!



These little dimples. This one is partially sealed over, but the one on the other side was not. I used a very small allen key (1.27mm) and pushed in against the spring until the little silver fella cleared the lid, and pulled up on the lid and slid it off of the other side. You could try a paperclip if its long enough to depress the dowel far enough.

And thats all folks!

Until next time, stay frosty my friends.

 

Possibly, my question is can it be charged off your cars battery while driving like the ArkPak can?

 

I'd like to verify that my mounting plate was pre-installed on my TB-51A when it was sent. It appears that I was one of the first sent out from the AZ warehouse, so maybe others were sent out that way also???

My reason is that I bought the

$30 Smittybilt 2789-99 Transit Bag

Smittybilt 2789-99 transit bag less than an hour after placing the order for my TB-51A. It's not an exact fit esp for the control panel. So, I may be interested in the GB if the price is decent.

 

I have the Arkpak 730 and it allows charging off the truck DC while driving as well as the AC charging cable for at home. Sure...it's more costly, but it's an investment I was willing to make. It also has a smart monitoring system that allows you to leave the battery plugged in at home which slow trickle charges (prolonging battery life) it and keeps it ready to go. The LED display has plenty of pertinent information as well, as the percent used on the battery as well as the Voltage remaining is displayable. Net wattage is also displayed. The setup once you slap the battery in is very precise as it allows you to enter the battery Amp Hours, so you get a perfect status readout on current usage in a graduated bar depiction as well as percentile display. There is also a 300wt (Sine) Inverter should you need it albeit it's not a powerhouse...but still available. Holds up to a group 31 battery. Additionally there are Anderson Pole connectors for connecting solar panels should you do so.

 

Yes, but it's hot as simple as just plugging it into your cigerette adapter. You would need to buy a DC-DC smart charger and wire it to your alternator/battery or run an isolator with heavy gauge wire to your alternator/battery.

This is a great article that explains the advantages of a DC-DC smart charger versus an isolator setup.

The ArkPak has a DC-DC smart charger (when you buy the appropriate adapters) that lets you simply plug the thing into your cigerette lighter. While this does sound great, you are severely limited by the fuse rating of your cigerette lighter (usually 15amps). Because of this the ArkPak only charges your battery at a rate of 6 amps per 1 hour of driving. IMO, this is pretty weak.
The other option would be to use the Anderson plugs on the ArkPak and wire heavy gauge wire directly to your alternator/battery with an isolator. Which is what you would have to do with this battery box anyways, so the ArkPak doesn't really offer much advantage in that respect. Either way you would need to run heavy gauge wire and an isolator.

The benefit to just using this battery box is that you could buy a larger and better DC-DC smart charger like the CTEK D250s Dual and wire it directly to your alternator/battery that would charge your battery at a rate of 20 amps per hour of driving compared to the ArkPaks 6 amps per hour of driving.

 

I almost did buy that cover as well until I discovered there was a place in the states that carried the Ironman cover and I just had to have it!

 

My mounting bracket was in the same box as the fridge, but it wasn't mounted. I believe mine came from the kentucky location.

 

I bought a 30L

 

X2

 

Forgot to post up the hinges/latch that I used if anyone was interested.

$21 Igloo Universal Fit Hybrid Plastic/Stainless Steel Hinges, Black, Model: 00024045

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U5WMT8Y

$10 Igloo Universal Fit Hybrid Plastic/Stainless Steel Latch

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006VYTU6E


And my Shittybilt cover fit great! I still dont understand what exactly the loops on the sides and the straps are for. Guessing its to make it tight around the fridge?





I just trimmed it where it needed to be, and used black gorilla tape to finish up the cut edges.

 

Good write up. It should be noted that if you do not use the ArkPak charging cable you will be bypassing the built in charger. So if you go the Anderson plug route you will need to have a way to control how you are charging the battery. I also think this defeats the purpose of buying an ArkPak. If you want to have a more powerful method like the CTEK charger then just do a DIY box.

Note: I have had no issues keeping my ArkPak charged up on days where I was driving vs sitting parked. You can also run the fridge off of the ArkPak and charge it at the same time. The ArkPak just has to be on while charging. Also, the DC cable is INCLUDED with the ArkPak so you do not need to buy any additional cables. You said "(when you buy the appropriate adapters)" which I believe is not current information.

Here's a link to the manual if anyone wants to pre-read: http://arkcorp.com.au//Content/manuals/ArkPak AP715 manual 120315.pdf

 

I couldn't figure out what all of the straps are for either. No instructions included or online (or at least I couldn't find any) Easy to mod and at $40 it's a great deal!

 

Thanks for the clarification on the charging adapters. I don't own an ArkPak myself or have even seen one in person, just going off info on their website which says.

 

Hey, wrong cover. You need this one

Indel B fridge insulation covers GB *FEELER*
https://www.tacomaworld.com/index.php?threads/Indel-B-fridge-insulation-covers-GB-*FEELER*.417339/

 

I'll try to find the thread where it's explained that the cover is redundant as an insulator for the inside it's essentially just a gear cover

 

Well you need one for you fridge

 

Excellent it's here

 

The more i read up on the arkpak, the more it sounds like a great option. Thanks to all who have shared their experiences with them.

 

I've been running some tests on the TB-51's freezer function 1st & refrigerator function next. The shittybilt jacket is on it & the ambient room temp is a steady +70F. I have the TB-51 filled with one of those big ice blocks you get at the grocery store. The block comes up to just below the freezer line, without the basket. I set the thermostat to +5F, when it shut off automatically I turned the power off. In 12 hours now the temp has only increased 7F to +12F. Next I'm going to set it to the lowest temp (-8F) & see how long it takes to increase to +32F. I'll keep posting the results as I get them.

Here are the official guidelines from fda.gov:
http://www.fda.gov/downloads/ForConsumers/ConsumerUpdates/UCM241723.pdf

I may not need that dual battery setup at all now. I'll consider it for the future, but based on the results I'm seeing, it's no longer a priority. I may just get the Newport battery box for my other power needs around camp & go on the cheap for the battery that goes in it.