Toytec BOSS Lift Endorsement

Installed the Toytec BOSS Lift this past week and I wanted to share how well executed the package is. Instructions are clear and the install is smooth. All relevant parts are included so you don't have to buy extras. I did, however, end up purchasing new UCA bolts since I cut the stock ones off to install the Light Racing UCA.

The ride, in my opinion, is very close to the stock feel. I left coils at the preset lift of 2.5" and used the single Deaver AAL included in the kit. Got 3" lift in the front and 2.5" in the back (before break-in period). I expect it will settle 1/4" - 1/2" based on other reviews.

I maxed out LCA caster: front of the arm all the way in & and back of the arm all the way out. This pushes the front wheel forward about 1/2" - 3/4". The LR UCAs were set to the "E" position. I took it to a reputable alignment shop familiar with adjustable UCAs and ended up with roughly 3 degrees of caster and 0 camber and toe. Because the LCAs were maxed out for caster the 265/70R17 Nitto Terra Grappler 2s and SCS Stealth 6 wheels (+10mm offset) DO NOT hit the inner fender even with the stock mud flaps installed. I wanted to pass this critical bit of info on to folks wanting to keep the factory look with the OEM flaps.

I also did a fair amount of research on actual tire sizes. Not all 265/70R17s are created equal. The Yokohama Geolanders are actually 31.9" in diameter. Terra Grapplers are 31.65" Kind of a big difference when we're dealing with such a small margin of error.

Any questions please feel free to PM or post in the thread. Very good product.

 

After much reading on here and as bad as i want to go 6" fabtech i think this is the kit i will go with . as this taco is my daily driver,.my main concern was the ride quality and by the sounds of it you are happy with it eh ? No odd vibes or clunking ?

 

thanks for posting. I have the same boss lift with light racing uca. also have scs stealth 6 rims with 265/70/17 tires. mine rubs in reverse not even close to full lock. I will have to bring it in see if I can get them to align it with the same specs you posted.

 

Mine is a daily driver as well so I wanted a "subtle" lift and this kit provides just that. With 3 degrees caster up front there is no bump-steer and steering effort is, to me, unnoticeable. No odd clunking/squeaking sounds but that also depends on the quality of your install. As far as vibrations, there is a very slight driveline shake between 5-15mph (even with 3 degree shims installed above the spring perch...make sure the wedge is pointed toward the front of the rig). After doing some research, I realized I had incorrectly torqued the new U-bolt to 35 ft/lbs as was originally described by the online torque spec document I downloaded. 35 ft/lbs. IS WRONG! It's actually around 75 ft/lbs of torque per bolt x4. After tightening to the correct number the vib is still there but better. My wife didn't even mention it on her maiden voyage this evening (I didn't mention it to see if she would notice). I have yet to measure true driveline angles and will do so this week. There is a free app called "Tremec Tool Box" that allows you to use your phone as a protractor to find your angles. I am also ordering a carrier bearing drop bracket that I have read is the key to eliminating driveline vibration once all other factors are ruled out. One TacomaWorld member posted that he had to play with the drop bracket shim size by installing washers stacked together and that not all Tacomas will use the same gap. You need to experiment with various washers (i.e. how far down you drop the carrier bearing) and road test after each change to determine success. His was only 3mm to find that sweet spot. Once the correct gap is discovered, buy a sturdy block of metal of the same dimension to replace the flimsy washers (if possible). I'm going to start by installing the OME 1/4" shim and go from there.

Did you remove the small "mud flaps" in front of the front tire? If so and you're hitting the fender then you may be running a larger 265/70R17 tire, your LCA is adjusted forward too much, or the bushings in your LCA are worn (too much play). A good shop should be able to help you figure it out. The key here is "good shop". The business I took my rig to works on race cars as well so they know their craft. Pay more $$$ and you get better service and attention to detail. Firestone is convenient but not the final answer. Goggle search "frame and alignment" shops in your area and do your due diligence to research their reputation and even give them a call to see if they are comfortable working on lifted trucks and adjustable UCAs.

 

Thank you for the review i will be ordering this set up next month once i put the snomobiles away

 

What position did you put the LR UCAs in (A, B, C, etc)? What are your caster numbers?

 

I don't remember I had a friend install them over a year ago and he set them on what was recommended for 2.5" lift. brought it to get aligned and they said every thing was good. drove it home and it wants to go right. not bad and not pulling right but you can feel it wanting to veer right. brought it to a different shop to have it done again and they told me everything is in spec and because its aftermarket UCA they really cant do anything. will be looking for a better place come spring.

 

You don't want it to be in spec. Without knowing what setting the UCAs are and what your alignment numbers are, it's difficult to help you. My assumption is that the UCAs are using a setting that added too much caster (moves the strut assembly closer to your inner fender). I also think they didn't give you enough caster when doing the alignment (more caster here moves the strut assembly forward, away from your inner fender). 265/70R17 shouldn't rub at all with your lift, if aligned correctly.

 

I'm trying to find the sheet they gave to me when it was aligned. I do know the UCA was set at what was recommended for a 2.5 lift. if I do find the sheet I will post it.

 

Recommended setting from SPC for the Light Racing UCA is the "D" setting which is +2 degrees of caster. Here is a link to their instructions:
http://www.spcalignment.net/instructions/25470-INS_WEB.pdf
If you maximized caster at the LCA and used the "D" setting, you may have too much caster. Positive caster moves the top of the spindle back toward the cab or the bottom of the spindle forward toward the fog lights.

 

Might need a drive shaft spacer. I put in a customtacos cb drop bracket and it didnt eliminate all my vibes from expos. Apparently my prerunner gets worse vibes than 4x4 because there is no transfer case.

Let you know if it works installing today