What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

Never thought about it that way, so both sides of the truck fly the same way, like wind is blowing it, makes sense now, I stand corrected

 

I bought some smd led's from: http://lighthouseleds.com/led-compo...e-mount-diodes/leds-plcc-2-1210-3528-smd.html

Then using a soldering iron I removed the existing led's I wanted to replace and soldered in the new led's I chose. It's about a $10-15 mod and took me 4 hours to complete. If you want to do this mod by yourself just have patience and not try to rush. It really isn't hard, I followed this video on how to do it myself: https://youtu.be/VyEDHtdHx2M

If you don't want to do it yourself, I know there are some forums on here of people doing it for you if you ship them everything to do it. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/denver-led-gauge-swaps.57487/

 

I could probably do that yeah.

Unfortunately I didn't take too many photos along the way but a quick breakdown.

The switch was very tough to initially find, it is from a 2016 Hilux Revo. I had one quote as high as $150 USD lol. After stalking a few Toyota ebay vendors one of them replied back that he had the switch in stock and would make a listing.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PC-GENUINE-TOYOTA-HILUX-REVO-2016-4WD-SWITCH/231835141416?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=1&asc=35694&meid=58eb9d1c70a943699228f86598f51f24&pid=100011&rk=2&rkt=10&sd=231803546343

I soldered in white LEDs to match up with the rest of the dash lighting, there are three of them in the switch... This is optional

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151427049883?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

This is a fairly accurate picture of what the lighting looks like if you leave it alone



The new switch is around 0.200" smaller in diameter than our existing switches so I had the ring machined. I set the height of the ring so that the new switch came out of the dash by the same amount as the old one.

You can see on the dash trim that there is a ledge that the ring bottoms out on and ultimately the height you make the ring will directly affect how much the switch sticks out.



The final complication was since the switch is smaller than our original switches the 3 locking tabs and 1 positioning tab didn't engage in the dash. There is probably a number of ways to deal with that. Since I no longer needed my original switch I hacked up the tabs from that switch and epoxied them onto the new one. I just had to shim them out a bit.



Far from pretty on the backside, but it didn't really matter to me since that is all concealed. It did work out very well doing it this way, the switch clicks into the trim nice and solid, is centered and can't spin within the dash since I reused the original positioning and locking tabs.

I did a couple coats of clear coat on the steel ring just to make sure it doesn't get any surface rust down the road. Also a few dabs of epoxy on the ring so it doesn't slip around, although I had it machined to fit snug to the switch.

And of course the end result.



The cost I believe came out a little higher than the 4runner switch option, but was worth it for me since I didn't love the look of it. Where you do pay though is in the time it takes if you want it to fit like it was original to the truck. As far as I know the 4runner switch just pops right in.

I do know that @adio is looking into the possibility of using an illuminated Tundra switch so that may be a good option too.

 

Washed it. Nice to get the salt off from the weekend trip up in the mountains.

 

Man that's right up my alley! What's the part number for the black trim also. I've been wanting to replace that shit for a while.

 

This is all I have right now. It's been a crazy/busy weekend. But it's a engage bed saver kit with fox dsc 16's and a defined sua setup.

 

55405-04090

It's expensive and I had to cringe a bit and just go for it. That comes with the vents too and what's bugging me is I ran across a thread later that had the same part but without the vents and it was way cheaper... Close to half the cost if I remember correctly. Since our vents are already black it would have been easy to just swap them onto the new trim.

If I come across the thread again I'll post the part number for that since he had it listed.

 

Hell yeah. Thanks man.

 

Well I'll see after installation.. Plan on running my air horn as well as just have the quick connects at each bumper and whole kit was right at $275

 

I did mine Saturday. It didn't come out too good so I'll redo it. I think I figured it out after the fact.

 

Installed my rear view mirror relocation bracket from @ImMrYo...looks and works great! Check for #1667 already in the mailbox for tomorrow!

 

Installed Pop and Lock 5400. Skipped the rod flip step and bent it slightly around the lock, works well. Crossing my fingers.

 

Self righteous Jar-Heads
I believe the backwards flag only applies to uniforms.

 

Got a lot done. Removed those UGLY chrome side steps, new exhaust, removed some mountian thing over the TRD logo, wired in my Light bar, clear door gaurds, full detail, and a couple of little things. and new wheels this weekend.

 

What light bar you go with?

 

It is a 30in bar. I got it from Sema last year. I have a 20in also that I am going to mount behind the grill.

 

What if you backed on instead. It would also allow you to weight the tongue via stuff in the box and protect the front of your truck

 

What's that in the front right grill, looks like a banana

 

There is just physically not enough room on the trailer for a DCLB. Wheelbase is too long.

 

Same here, that piece was a real pain in the ass and the one thing I'm unhappy with and will probably redo too.