Reverse valved dual shocks?

Here's a bit of an interesting one for the shock guru's. My current setup is dual shocks up front, 6 total if you include hydro bumps.

Now here is what I am a bit curious about. I am well aware either the front or rear shock in the front needs to become the softer valved shock (equal valving across the board) and the other basically takes all the valving. No secret there. In order to ease the blows on an already flexy frame from hard runs, I have softer valving in my front coilovers on compression of 10/15 rebound. 650# spring. Now here is where it gets interesting, the secondary Fox shocks which I valved and slapped together before install have a valving of compression 15/10 rebound. I bought 10 discs when I began the project of installing secondaries to slap on the SAW coilovers at the rebound portion to make them equally valved, but I haven't gotten around to it, and I am partially lazy about doing it at the moment as well. I have also not found a real justification for replacing the discs at this point with them either.

I have taken the truck out and have run it through its paces. It performs very well and handles absolutely everything I throw at it. Especially in the local area that I take it out at. I have so far been able to take it to speeds north of 65 mph ofroad through some pretty bumpy terrain, some fairly vertical G outs, jumps, you name it, it takes it, and asks for more. That does also need me to put it out there that I have not ran it as hard or as long out there out there as I would like to yet, as I am limited in wheeling spots in the area I live in. I had gotten to thinking from a long time ago and never really decided to talk about it because it performs very well so far. Effectively I am looking at a reverse valved dual shock setup for the front. 10/15, 15/10. It essentially becomes a 15/15 setup overall, just a lot more distributed in the way it handles its loads on both the compression and rebound sides.

My question: Has anyone ever tried this before on their setup or in general and how well does it truly perform after extensive testing?

I should also mention that this setup makes the truck very streetable and has a nice firm ride despite all the suspension it has and has kept its daily driver factor for me, in fact it actually made turns and hairpin turns much more stable and holds the front end up much better with all the armor it has!

I'll include a quick video I took so you can analyze it, and a picture of the setup:



If you need me to, I can upload the full speed video, but here is one where I slo-mo'ed the airborne part:

https://youtu.be/OQhznDw89_I

One small footnote I should mention is that at the landing there was another bump immediately after landing, which is why you see the suspension extend out again afterwards. If you focus on the front bumper, you can actually see it wiping out some of the dirt that was there and toss it all in the front.

 

Bump to this. I'm not expecting many replies honestly, but I would definitrly like some weigh in on the topic.

Calling you @jberry813 @Airdog @username @Mxpatriot @blackhawke88 .

 

Just run it man. People get way too hung up about valving. Even if those shocks are valved identically, they will perform much differently. The piston is different as well as oil (from the factory), I bet if you put a gauge on there the pressure difference would surprise you. A lot of people believe suspension tuning is a black art. A lot of ways it is. I have no idea what my valving is, and don't care. You could attempt to replicate my setup on your truck and it might ride like shit to you. I just added and removed shims and played with nitrogen pressure until it made me happy, and other than an annual tear down I just hammer down on the skinny pedal and do my thing. I don't agree with traditional tuning where the coilover has no valving and the bypass does all the work. Mine are pretty even, and none are overworked. A cool shock is a happy shock. It also extends oil life in my experience. I would, however, strongly suggest that you gusset your spindle pronto. If it's not bent already it will be soon enough.

 

I had no idea you even replied to this. Thanks for chiming in about it! Well since I posted this, I ran it out at Pismo mid last year and much to my surprise, the setup performed flawlessly out there. I am contemplating changing springs because my ride height dropped since I added the blower and the skid as well. Since I am going to be in there, I think it will be a great time to change the oil and I'll just flip the stacks around even though they do not necessarily need it. I guess it would help to keep things even as for a compression and rebound settings are concerned. As you mentioned, the pressure differences may be there, but with such a vast difference between the front coil over and smoothie, I don't think it would be such a bad thing to get them closer together so they aren't fighting each other as much.

If anything was actually holding me back, it was the valving of the rear shocks. They were still a bit too soft and the rear was bucking around a little while the front was confidently striding across whoop and washboard sections.

 

Be cautious with heavier spring rates. I have some broken top hats from 700# springs turning into blocks at full stuff. Put some clay between the coils and go stuff the front end hard a couple times. It will surprise you how close the coils get to each other, there is a RCH clearance on 650's... 700's touch. Your shocks might not have as much stroke as mine, the only way to know is the clay test. Either way, glad you're happy with how they work in the dunes. Mine ride really stiff for most people, but for my driving style it works good for me and that's all that matters.