Serpentine Belt Replacement 4 cyl specific

Hello.

I recently changed my serpentine belt and found a great thread called "how to change belt?" which I do not know how to link too. However, that thread is 6 cyl specific and the 4 cyl has a slightly different location for the tensioner and belt routing. A belt costs around $30, I got mine at NAPA, and make sure you specify with A/C or without and for a 4 cyl as the lengths are different. It will take about 30 minutes or so. You will need a 14 mm wrench and 17 mm wrench and a new belt.

New belt pic


The 4 cyl has marks on the tensioner and tensioner mount that show the amount of tension on the belt and the belt should be replaced if it is out of spec regardless of cracking or missing ribs. A pic is below to show the marks on the tensioner.


first, remove the skidplate, there are 4 14 mm bolts.

Then from underneath, apply wrench, 17 MM, to stud on tensioner and push wrench clockwise (up in my pic) to release tension on belt and work belt off the tensioner. From here, you can remove the belt from all the pulleys and move belt towards radiator and remove it. You have to move the belt between the fan and fan shroud to remove it and install it which is a bit of a pain.

picture of 17 mm wrench on tensioner to adjust tension of belt

install the new belt after routing it between fan and shroud. I started on the right side looking at the engine from the front and routed it around everything but the tensioner.

here is a pic from my manual that shows the 4 cyl belt routing.

After the belt is properly routed on all other locations, then move wrench on tensioner adjustment and route belt over tensioner. Check the belt to ensure it is routed properly and seated in all the grooves, adjust by applying pressure to your wrench to reset.

Make sure to remove your wrench from the tensioner! Next, turn the key over in the ignition without starting the truck a couple of times to ensure the belt is routed property, start the engine and let it run to ensure everything is proper and shut it down and reinstall the skid plate cover and you are done.

The link to the FSM that is floating around has info on the tensioner marks, I will try to find it and attach it for reference. Got it and it is attached

FLJB

 

Sub'd. Need to do this

 

Thanks for the write up on 2.7 and the clear pics.

 

Thanks for this write-up!. The cool 'wear gauge' on the 4 cyl tensioner let me see that I don't need to change the belt yet!

But I do have to figure out the little squeak, dammit!

 

thanx im due for this how many miles did u have, and how do u like the NAPA belt

 

Just wanted to give a little tip guys, i have a long breaker bar i used from the top to loosen the tensioner and slip the belt off. Also mine was not a 17mm it was a 14mm for the tensioner. Took no more than 10 mins off and on start to finish.

 

Can you see the marks from looking down from the top or under the truck?

Great write up

 

Marks can be seen from above. Guys this is a super easy maintenance item. Dont pay tonhave it changed. Do it yourself. As far as i can see this tensioner is automatic. Release the belt, slip it off and around the fan. Drip the new one in place. Put in t around the tensioner last. There is no reason to go under the truck at all. If you have a nice breaker var or ratcheting breaker bar like i have it will make life much easier.

 

Will be looking at mine this weekend. Currently at 64k, was planning on changing at 75k

 

I never had a problem but just changed mine at 120,000

 

I replaced my OEM belt with a Brando, anyone else have good luck with this brand?

 

Bando is OEM apparently but I just took one off a month ago because it was squeaking on cold mornings at startup. Went with a Gates and its been quiet so far

 

I just replaced mine at 120,000 with a Bando not a Brando - so far so good.

 

These type belts won't show you the wear like the older type "V" belts. What happens on these belts is they will start to slip, while on the outside it looks fine. They have a special tool to measure the rib depth and that tool is the only legit way to tell if your belt needs replacing.

 

excellent writeup thanx, from my research the OEM Toyota Bando is different from the over the counter made in USA Bando belt,https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-...iewpnt?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B000CMIG66#R1EWHK5RI7H7V7

 

Yeah, I heard the OEM Serpentine belt is better than Brando and it was recommended to stick with OEM for replacements.

 

yes, me too the OEM Bando is made in Japan I think and is of higher quality they are $80

 

I will keep an eye on it and if it doesn't match the OEM belt I will consider going back to the original that came from the factory. I have read people saying it doesn't match up to the OEM in quality, with a few have it shred.

 

ive read somewhere the same, although the Toyota belt costs $80 versus $20 for the USA made bando im sticking with the OEM Toyota

 

The more repairs I do and have done the more OEM replacement part are a smart decision for the long run, quality usually trumps cost over the long haul.